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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 10-01-2012, 07:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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timing cover

i was wondering how to tell which timing cover is the right one? i have a leak in the hpop res and i fixed it a few months ago and now i think it is starting to leak again. so how can you tell if an engine out of a junk pile is the correct one? all of the numbers on the resivor cover are the same but i don't know if the rest is the same, looks right, but i don't want to even want ti pull it if it's won't work. i also need to know what gaskets/seals that i need to get. this one is cheap do not want to pass up.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Look at the engine serial no/build date on the valve cover of the junker engine (if it's stil there). It should match fairly closely to yours.

I assume you can tell the difference between a superduty engine and an OBS engine. The front covers aren't interchangeable. There's also a change in design somewhere around 2000-2001 MY of the reservoir cover gasket (early without screen - late with screen). The later ones have a recess around the inside of the smaller cavity under the cover.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the reservoir change was 5/22/99 (truck build date not engine build date)
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i checked all the tag #'s on the hpop res and all the numb matched, but i was not sure if the lower part had changed or was the same. what other parts do you think i should get? the oil tube and filter mount?
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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also what is the easiest way to change it? pull rad, inter cooler and all that crap or is it fairly easy with all that in place and just remove the basic stuff?
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The way to do it right is to pull the engine out of the truck and take the oil pan off. You could theoretically get the RTV that's used on between the block and front cover loose. But the oil pickup tube is bolted to the bottom of the front cover, and there's really no clearance to get it unbolted, let alone bolting it back on as you try to install the front cover with the pan still attached. The other end of the pickup tube is held in place at one of the main bearing caps.

Even if you could do it with the engine installed, you'd be hard pressed to get it sealed correctly, and you'd likely have a worse leak than you started with. You need to get all the old sealant off and all the oil off the surfaces for the RTV to seal. The proper sealant to use is the International or Ford RTV, and when replacing the pan, the engine needs to be upside down to keep the oil off the joint.
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99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version), AIS, coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return, heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.

Hard or no-start? Check Here
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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well i guess i'll be fixing the old one till it can't be fixed anymore. i don't have any way to pull it (i live with dirt no way to pull it). some one mentioned epoxy b4 what do you recomend? i am currently using JB WELD. anything better?
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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JB Weld is about as good as you can get. The secret to a good repair is to get things as clean as possible, with no chance of contamination while the JB is setting up. Also, a little judicious grinder work and maybe drilling the end of a crack to stop it from growing. What you want is a somewhat rough surface for the JB to "bite" into.

Good luck
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99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version), AIS, coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return, heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.

Hard or no-start? Check Here
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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hey if i decide to pull the front cover someday should i go ahead and replace the bearings and all the seals while i am there? these would include rear main, connect rod, mains and of course the timing seals. is this all or am i missing something. i figue since i am down there i might as well replace what i can right? or just wasting money. truck has mostly hwy miles towing a horse trailer (so i was told.). what do you all think? running good and the bloby is light to med.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You'll have to pull the engine to do all the bearings. Front cover can be replaced with the engine still in the truck. Does that change your mind?


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Old 10-28-2012, 08:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i still need to drop pan right, to get to the p/u tube?
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Don't really know...I thought the pick up tube was bolted to the block, not the front cover. is it fubar too?
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ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 10-28-2012, 09:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Don't really know...I thought the pick up tube was bolted to the block, not the front cover. is it fubar too?
The oil pump pickup is bolted to the front cover. It would be extremely difficult if not impossible to get the front cover off without pulling the pan.
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First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version), AIS, coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return, heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.

Hard or no-start? Check Here
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I continue to learn. Thanks


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ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 11-19-2012, 08:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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WELL MY COVER FINALLY BROKE!!! where is the least expensive place to get all the gaskets that i need, AND what other gaskets do i need? i am going to tear into it tommoro. what do i need to do and look out for. i would like as many opinions as possible. thanxs
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