So I put new injectors in, truck ran great seemed to spool easy. My old injectors were absolutely shot.
So if I hard accelerate it'll push black then go white, I'll let off and cruise at 55 and lug it back up to 60 it'll spool and sounds weird. Like its cutting out, and pushing white smoke. I hear the noise from inside the truck sounds like from the air intake. Give like 30 seconds and lug it to 60 from 55 just pushes black and sounds normal. Only happens after a hard push. Is the turbo going out?
How many miles on the new injectors and what size did you buy? Some times it takes some miles to get the air out or the heads. Do you have a way to monitor boost and oil pressures etc?
Yes sir, they said something about a bleeder in there but I didn't mess with that. Just Gp out turn by hand. I have drove 230 miles about. Didn't stomp on it till about 190 200 mile range, and holy hell it's so alive now.
The turbo sputters after hard acceration and white smoke while accerating.
If no hard acceration before hand it is just fine, blows black no white. It's strange wonder if it's a seal? Maybe hopefully.
No idea what somebody was referring to with the bleeder deal.
What is turbo sputter?
White smoke once warmed up in a 7.3 is going to be poor final injection pressure or not enough base heat due a worn out engine. This is why I suggested compression tests.
If you think you have a turbo issue, inspect it.
Black and white alternating can be a slipping hpop drive gear.
Idk how to really discribe it, it's like the whistle of the turbo is cutting in and out rapidly. Could there be a chance of it just being blow by for some reason hitting the blade? It does only do it at a heavy acceration. Things heat up and maybe some how hits the blades, no power loss.
I replied back I wasn't able to get a compression test done because I got called into work. Thought I had two days only got one off.
I never shown signs of compression loss though.
Btw, its a good thing I changed those injector, I never realized how bad they were. When it cold starts it sounds like those did at fully heated eot. Not rough at all!
No a slipping drive gear is not going to put oil in the turbo syeste.
Oil is in there because the intake drafts the crankcase fumes.
The drive gear drives the hydraulic pump that has hoses that feed hydraulic pressure to run the injectors, like I wrote earlier.
Have you read Swamps page on hydraulics or the coffee table book yet?
Idk how to explain the sound it make to make sense. It just sounds like it sputters after I try to build boost after a heavy acceration. And no I haven't had a chance to read it I'm back at location with limit service
I have Google haven't came up with anything I don't have good strength to search though. I'm just hoping it's just burning off the rest of the oil from the injector being changed and it's just getting blow by to the compressor wheel making that sound and causing that smoke.
Won't have my tool till I get home to check the compressor wheel. Hopefully it's nothing major
So I took her for a drive for breakfast since I brought it Withe me, it did not do anything it did yesterday, I did notice I'm makin more boost than ever before.
Note: I did nothing to the waste gate to effect the boost. It climbs super fast now, I didn't go wot but I hit 23psi in a very very small amount of time.
Maybe it was turbo surge? And a mix of burning the rest of the oil off. Let's hope.
I will still be checking the compressor wheel for movement to eliminate bearings.
If anyone has experience in the whole injector/boost please chim in. Wondering if it was because my injectors were so well off that new ones have just brought this truck to life again. Still gettin use to a non gutless 7 3
Yeah I sorta under stand what they do, but in the articles they give different problems like no starts and things like that. The high ipr% and low icp wasnt really discussed with in the article.
Side thought, does auto zone do free fuel pressure tests? I was told they do, but not sure if I trust it. Do you happen to know if they do?
Ford does not monitor fuel lift pressure. You can get a fitting that screws into fuel bowl.
You have to correct you hydraulic problems.
You need to check the ICP and ipr wiring from connector back to chaffe point on driver's side valve cover.
If you have the old style ICP, ditch it. If you have an ancient IPR, ditch it.
I got the ipr, will put it in once I sober up. As of right now it's whiskey 30!
Hey, soon I wot it because I was told to run it hard to clear it up and what not. My icp spiked to 2700 dropped to 2450 and held solid at 2370 @95mph. ( didn't know I got up to that fast in that little time) so that's a big difference from what I was getting 1900. Correct? They said 2300-2400 is about 90% of people
Anyways if I don't hear back from you happy thanksgiving eat lots have a great day!
Yes, is there a different which port? Or either or ports on the fuel bowl work?
I do have old ipr, but new icp. I did check wiring only thing I found was exposed but not damaged wires going into the plug of the ipr, looks like maybe there was a rubber sleeve at some point maybe covering it? Wasn't sure, electric taped it.
The pins on connector might be bad and that tape will come off. Buy an Alliant ipr pigtail, crimp, solder and heat shrink.
If IPR is ancient, it is wise to replace it.
I'm going to pick up a new ipr tonight, the pig tail I have to get online, I tried getting one from ford but for some reason it is not the same one as I have, I'll have to make due with the tape for about a week.
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