99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
My 03 4X4 PSD has a bad vibration that comes and goes. I can't feel it in the steering wheel so that tells me it's not in the front end. I can hear it and feel it under the seat. Like I said it started today and it comes and goes but I can't make it do it on demand.
U-joints, center support bearing, threw a balancing weight from a wheel. When checking the U-joints grabbing and feeling for looseness is not always a sure method. A sure method is to look for ANY grease being thrown from the rubber needle bearing boots. If you see leakage it means they are shot.
Larry
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02 F250XLT SD CC LB 4X4, Silver, SD Air Lifts, 4R100, Westin Sportsman grill/brushguard, Leer Shell, AIS Severe Duty w/added fender intake, Edge EVO running 80 HP, ISSPRO's w/cubby mount, Rancho 9000X's, Banks 3 1/2" downpipe, BTM, 3 1/2" exhaust front to rear with 5" stainless tip. Sonnex and Tricum's. Fumoto Valve. Royal Purple ATF. Tru-Cool 4590. Tekonisha Prodigy. SP Diesel SSEBTC Exhaust Brake. Like new 88 Vacationeer 11.4' or 2008 Cardinal 31SB, 1992 Bayliner Trophy and the itch to go, baited hooks and the need to fish, loaded guns and the need to hunt.
When you check for looseness, make sure you chock the wheels and do it in neutral. If it is in P it will have the loosenes in a bind and you won't find it.
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'02 F250 SD PSD 4WD Toreador Red,Gold Lower Accent,Medium Parchment inside, CC,Lariat,285/75R16,IAH Delete, IC tube insulation delete,NAPA IA Mod,Rancho shocks and stablizer, lower front valence and bar removed,BTM installed. Coming up next, guages.
I had a bad vibration in mine when accelerating and today I heard a horrible clicking sound, increasing as I spead up. Since I just did a differential oil change and that didn't help I decided to do the U-joints. Come to find out that the rear U-j was seized up. after taking it out i found many broken needle bearings with the grease that was all burned and powdered. I replaced both U's and it cured all my shimmying, clattering, vibrating, clunking problems. I also pulled apart the slip joint and stuffed it with grease and reassembled it and that got rid of the take off clunk.
Big Red is running great now!
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2001 F250 7.3L Power Stroke Lariat, Ext. Cab, with 4x4 On Road; Running on 100% home-brewed biodiesel.
I got a couple U Joints that have those black streaks coming out of the seal. Absolutely no play. Think I should pull the shaft again and take one out and inspect?
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Early 99 F 250, Walker Big Truck Muffler, Otherwise bone stock at present.
I took it to a local shop and they put it on the hoist and checked all the u joints and dropped the carrier bearing and check it. They could'nt figure it out. The vibration comes and goes, high speed low speed it does'nt matter. I can't make it do it at will. I've heard of people having the same kind of noise and it was thier front hub. The truck has 29K on it
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'02 F250 SD PSD 4WD Toreador Red,Gold Lower Accent,Medium Parchment inside, CC,Lariat,285/75R16,IAH Delete, IC tube insulation delete,NAPA IA Mod,Rancho shocks and stablizer, lower front valence and bar removed,BTM installed. Coming up next, guages.
There shouldn't be any grease coming out of the seals. Think about it, how much grease is in that little bitty cup. Not much, so a little leakage will soon become a big problem for you.......in the worst possible time you can be certain. The reason they start leaking is because of the wear on the needle bearings. The shaft begins moving around due to bearing wear, the cup has hardened over the years and the movement causes grease to leak out. Regardless of whether it fixes the vibration problem your u-joints are on the way out and need replacement. Mine failed just a couple thousand after I started seeing leakage around the cups. A sure sign is if it's throwing grease on the bottom of the bed. Like tracks on your underwear [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]....time for a change [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img].
Putting it up on a rack and pushing and pulling on the u-joints doesn't mean squat. To really be able to tell you need to pull down the driveshaft and if you do that you might as well change the joints. They're probably on the downhill side of life anyway (like me [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]).
Larry [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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02 F250XLT SD CC LB 4X4, Silver, SD Air Lifts, 4R100, Westin Sportsman grill/brushguard, Leer Shell, AIS Severe Duty w/added fender intake, Edge EVO running 80 HP, ISSPRO's w/cubby mount, Rancho 9000X's, Banks 3 1/2" downpipe, BTM, 3 1/2" exhaust front to rear with 5" stainless tip. Sonnex and Tricum's. Fumoto Valve. Royal Purple ATF. Tru-Cool 4590. Tekonisha Prodigy. SP Diesel SSEBTC Exhaust Brake. Like new 88 Vacationeer 11.4' or 2008 Cardinal 31SB, 1992 Bayliner Trophy and the itch to go, baited hooks and the need to fish, loaded guns and the need to hunt.
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