99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I intentionally didn't plug my truck in last night. I wanted to know if it had any cold start issues at 23º. It sat for about 25 hours before this start. I'm running Schaeffer 7000 15W-40 motor oil. I hit the starter the instant the WTS light went out.
Also, ignore the low quality of the video, I was mainly focused on the sound. Also, the noise is the background is the audio from the radio at work, I'm a career firefighter.
I think mine sounds about the same. I think it's the 15w-40 being so thick. But here it doesn't pay to go to 5w-40 because it's not that cold long enough to warrant it in my eyes.
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Evan-
2003 Ford F-350 Crew Cab L/B/Dually XLT FX4 7.3L/Auto- Gooseneck Hitch Fifth Wheel Rails, Firestone Air Bags/ Toolbox
I think for it only being 23 degrees out (as in thats not very cold) it started pretty rough. The 15-40 doesnt help but I think its something more complicated than that (glow plugs?) Just my .02
That sounded like the time I started up at 6F with a non-working GPR and a broken block heater cord (that was before I knew enough to jumper the GPR.)
In colder temps, the PCM ups the HP oil pressure to compensate for the thicker oil when it'd cold. It's probably calibrated for 15W-40. That causes it to run a bit harsher.
I put new Motorcraft glow plugs in two years ago. I would assume those should be fine. I guess I need to check the relay. Might be a good time for the Stancor P/N: 586-902 upgrade.
If the relay is OK, and the glow plugs are OK, what else does one check? I read in another forum that there's a knock sensor that the PCM uses to cycle the plugs in cold weather, but I don't know if it's true.
klhansen would probably be best to answer this. You could have a loose connection on the UVCH or it could have issues. fuel bowl heater I believe can cause cold start issues. weak/sticking injectors.
Do you have access to auto enginuity or something similar?
Your glow plugs should still be fine if they are only 2 yrs old, but anything is possible. I thought my GPR had issues and installed the racor relay. Turns out nothing was wrong with my original relay and I had an injector issue.
as klhansen said, you at least need to start with gp's and gpr tests.
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03 F350 7.3L Auto CC LB Dually 410's (LS Rear)
INFRNL is correct about the skipping possibly being caused by the effects of cold oil on the injectors. The armature plate clearance to the body of the solenoid getting to close will tend to make the oil in the space hold the injector closed when the solenoid activates. But the next thing after checking the GPR (your 2yo GP's are probably still good) would be to check the ICP sensor and IPR. If you can get your hands on AutoEnginuity or other PSD capable scan tool, that would help figure it out. If your oil is due to be changed, that will affect cold starts as well. Old oil doesn't work as well in the HP oil system. Could be as simple as an oil change, even to the same oil you're using.
There's no knock sensor on our trucks. The GP system is strictly time controlled based on barometric pressure and oil temperature.
It did seem to start up fairly quickly, but with the puff of white smoke, it could still be GP system related. They should be activated for 2 minutes after Key On at that temperature.
Wouldn't be fuel bowl heater related though. That's only there to keep the filter from plugging with fuel wax particles, and I'd be surprised if your fuel was susceptible to that at 24F.
But the next thing after checking the GPR (your 2yo GP's are probably still good) would be to check the ICP sensor and IPR.
When it clears up a little, I'll go outside and check that. I replaced the ICP and IPR in the last two years (OEM, not aftermarket). Don't remember the dates, would have to check the maintenance log.
Quote:
Originally Posted by klhansen
If you can get your hands on AutoEnginuity or other PSD capable scan tool, that would help figure it out.
I have AE, which function would diagnose it? Last time I check it all 8 cylinders would pass a CCT.
Quote:
Originally Posted by klhansen
If your oil is due to be changed, that will affect cold starts as well. Old oil doesn't work as well in the HP oil system. Could be as simple as an oil change, even to the same oil you're using.
I do have 10,000 miles on this oil, but I'm running a Amsoil bypass. I know the oil is clean, but other properties affecting the injectors might be out of whack.
Quote:
Originally Posted by klhansen
It did seem to start up fairly quickly, but with the puff of white smoke, it could still be GP system related. They should be activated for 2 minutes after Key On at that temperature.
When it's cold out, and I haven't plugged it in, it runs really rough for a few minutes, like it's got a dead skip. Yesterday, even after the coolant temp had reached normal, I could still hear the EBPV engaging under light throttle, telling me the oil temp was still fairly low.
Living in AK im used to starting my 7.3 at temps at almsot -40F (hydro clutch sticks if driven at temps any lower). Last year I had a few problems and though the fuel gelled but turns out my fuel pressure was low and fluctuated. I replaced the pump and your same problem occured. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the problem was solved. Been running fine ever since.
It could also be as simple as an oil change or cleaning of your HPOP reservoir, those heavy deposits aren't flushed during an oil change. I use AMSoil also and have to use 5-30 during the winter months.
Hope this helps...
Hope this helps.
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'01 F250 4x4, 6-spd manual, TAG II, Banks Big Hoss chip/accumulator/impeller, 6.0 intercooler, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust, AFE stage 2 intake, AMSOil bumper to bumper!
Last time I check it all 8 cylinders would pass a CCT.
You have to wait for the oil temp to come up to run a CCT successfully, but you can set it up to monitor PERDELS for each cylinder when it's stone cold. That will tell you if one or more injectors isn't firing, even though it passes the CCT when the engine is warm. Check your ICP and IPR duty cycle also when it's cold.
Quote:
Originally Posted by txgp17
I do have 10,000 miles on this oil, but I'm running a Amsoil bypass. I know the oil is clean, but other properties affecting the injectors might be out of whack.
The oil may have lost it's anti-aeration properties.
Quote:
Originally Posted by txgp17
When it's cold out, and I haven't plugged it in, it runs really rough for a few minutes, like it's got a dead skip.
The PERDELS will tell you which injectors might be causing the skip.
I have the same truck, same color, cab and box length. We had a hard cold snap for a solid month here and were seeing temps around -2 on average at night with highs in the upper teens low twenties.
During the first part of the cold snap I didn't use my block heater (never had) I originaly lived in Washington where it never got that cold (wasn't even sure I had a block heater.)
My point is that with the cold we saw in the first couple days and nights before it dove into the minus's my tuck sounded the same. It would start a little easier than yours did but it would sound the exact same at idle. After about 20-30 seconds it would go into "normal" idle and then after maybe a minute or less it would do the "high idle" which I believe is a turbo bypass..?
I started using the block heater up until two days ago when we got back up into the 30's. I just didn't want to take a chance at damaging the engine... BUT.. I'm a snowmobiler and the truck can sit in the lot for 8+ hours while we are out riding.. So far only once did I come back to have the same cold start condition like your video.
I'm running Rotella 15w40 and I change my oil every 3k like clockwork and every other oil change I draw out, and refill my HPOP resivoir for good measure. Don't know if it's neccesary but from what I read it doesn't hurt anything to do the extra to prolong injector life.
I had my glow plug relay replaced last year at 97k when I bought it. Right now I have 113k. Truck starts fine in any condition even really cold but it will idle like in your video for a short time. Interesting read on others comments, thanks for posting
Your post made me curious so I've been doing some digging.
They call this "Romp" or 'Lope" just depends on who you talk to. It's common though with the 7.3. Most guys seem to go to 10w30 or 5w40 to cure it but one guy said he talked to international and it's just the charactersitic of the motor and will not harm anything. This is from my readings not my opinion.
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