Wastegate solenoid - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-28-2009, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Wastegate solenoid

Hi, thanks for everyone's help with the starter issue, I was able to fix it. (On my 99 ford f350 diesel) However, have a new issue. On the way back from the coast, my service engine soon light came back on, so I took it to a mechanic and used his scanner tool (I know auto zone, knechts and oil can henry's don't have the right scanner's for this) and it spit out a code that the mechanic had never seen before, so I researched it on the computer and the code comes back as the wastegate solenoid. Does anyone know what the heck that is, how to fix it and how much the part costs? Also, until I have some more money would it hurt it to drive it like that for a little while? I think the wastegate solenoid thing has something to do with the turbo, but I am finding it is also an exhaust thing? The truck has been running a little on the crappy side from this, but not too bad, still totally driveable. ALSO: I have not taken it in on this recall thing (haven't had time) for a cam shaft positioning sensor, could that really be the problem instead?. Please help, I am totally clueless on this, you can also e-mail me your answers: ameier85@gmail.com. I am not paying someone to fix this either! Thanks!!

Hi everyone, I really appreciate all of the help with the starter, now there is a NEW PROBLEM. I was driving to the coast and the service engine soon light came on. (never has come on before in the 2+ years I have owned the truck). So, when I got back, I took it to a few places to have it hooked up to one of those scanner things. The code :P1690 comes up. According to what I researched on the net, it's the waste gate cellinoid. This is kind of scary, because I think it's part of the turbo?. Does anyone know anything about that part and what it costs? I heard it's something that is very easy to take out and put in.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-29-2009, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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Okay, sorry about the attitude, a little frusterated with the truck and it giving me problems. I got rid of the pink, I still don't get the signature thing and how I am supposed to properly post things. I REALLY APPRECIATE the suggestions and especially the photograph with the picture and diagram is awesome!! I have some new things to try, thank you. Also any idea how much any of these parts cost? THANKS and wish me luck!!

Hi everyone, I really appreciate all of the help with the starter, now there is a NEW PROBLEM. I was driving to the coast and the service engine soon light came on. (never has come on before in the 2+ years I have owned the truck). So, when I got back, I took it to a few places to have it hooked up to one of those scanner things. The code :P1690 comes up. According to what I researched on the net, it's the waste gate cellinoid. This is kind of scary, because I think it's part of the turbo?. Does anyone know anything about that part and what it costs? I heard it's something that is very easy to take out and put in.

Last edited by F350BLONDIE; 05-30-2009 at 08:58 PM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-29-2009, 07:46 AM
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I 2 have a waste gate silenoid prob on my 1999f350 not sure quite how to fix it yet but i know it is a little electric unit right on the front of the turbo down towards the top of the motor it has a red and green vacume lines coming off of it im corrently working on this prob and iv been driving mine. the waste gate silenoid provides vacume to the waste gate to build boost ill keep u informed on it k
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-29-2009, 10:25 AM
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Wow Okay Cool...............so No One Can Help...............alrighty Then This Forum Sucks And The Other One Where The People Helped Me Is Where I Need To Go Apparently...............and The One Idiot Wonders Why People Get Mad And Cuss.............gee, I Wonder Why...........well, If Anyone Wants To Be Cool And Help Me Out I'd Appreciate It......,.....thank You
Really ? To admonish the members with words like that how can you expect any help. Everyone is not on here all the time, I was on last nite but must have missed your post. Please stop using the larger font and the pink font, that's like shouting and angry.

Now about your Wastegate Solenoid. Not knowing what scanner you used it is possible that you got an incorrect code. To correctly read the Ford codes, you have to have one with the Ford enhanced capability.

Assumeing you have the Garret Turbo.

Yes the wastegate is on the turbo exhaust side, just follow the small Red vacuum line to the small can with a shaft coming out of it, if you can reach and pull the shaft towards yourself, then you know it's not stuck.

You can set that code by overboosting, I may be wrong but I think so. Just cancel the code and see if and when happens again.

Happy Motoring.

99.5 F350 XLT Lariat 4X4 4R100 4.10 DW CC LB Centurion conversion, 183K miles Garret Turbo, Radio SD &Tape, SP Performance 40-60-80 chip, 100 Gal.Transfer Flow W/Trimax Control Aux. fuel tank. ScanGaugeII, Boost, EGT, Trans. Temp. Oil Temp. Build date 03/99

92 F350 2WD 7.3 IDIT E4OD CC LB dually Banks turbo US Gear O/U, 79K on the engine. 129K body.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-29-2009, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F350BLONDIE View Post
Hi everyone, I really appreciate all of the help with the starter, now there is a NEW PROBLEM. I was driving to the coast and the service engine soon light came on. (never has come on before in the 2+ years I have owned the truck). So, when I got back, I took it to a few places to have it hooked up to one of those scanner things. The code :P1690 comes up. According to what I researched on the net, it's the waste gate cellinoid. This is kind of scary, because I think it's part of the turbo?. Does anyone know anything about that part and what it costs? I heard it's something that is very easy to take out and put in.

Wow Okay Cool...............so No One Can Help...............alrighty Then This Forum Sucks And The Other One Where The People Helped Me Is Where I Need To Go Apparently...............and The One Idiot Wonders Why People Get Mad And Cuss.............gee, I Wonder Why...........well, If Anyone Wants To Be Cool And Help Me Out I'd Appreciate It......,.....thank You
One thing you gotta have on these forums is: PATIENCE. Alot of us don't get on here everyday! Sometimes a qualified reply can take a day or two. Now, on to your problem:

The P1690 DTC is generally a problem with the Waste Gate Control solenoid valve, as this is the part in the WGC system that is connected to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module: the truck's "computer"). I had the same problem at some point, and, after testing and replacing the solenoid valve, the problem cleared.

It is the small, black valve mounted on the top of the turbo "Y", right on the front/top of the engine. It has small red & green lines connected to it, and also a green-colored electrical connector. It is just an electrically operated valve (controlled by the PCM). It directs a small amount of boost pressure (NOT VACUUM!), either to the waste gate actuator (to control boost) or back to the inlet, as commanded by the PCM.

Here is a picture from my truck. Mine has been relocated a bit, but you should get the idea...


Chances are good that the small coil which opens and closes the valve has failed. You could check this with a continuity tester (ohmmeter) to see if the coil has continuity (or is "open"), by disconnecting the small green electrical plug and taking a continuity reading across the pins on the valve. There should be some resistance reading; not "open" (infinite reading) and not "shorted" (0 resistance, zero ohms).

--OR--

You could simply replace the solenoid valve.

Just un-plug the electrical connector; unhook the green and red lines (they come off together with the black rubber piece); then un-bolt the valve.

Purchase a new one from a Ford dealer (not available aftermarket, unfortunately), and reinstall it.

**NOTE: If you do choose to change it yourself: Take the old one off and take it with you to the Ford dealer. Make sure the new one is the same part as the old one. There is another part (a vacuum valve, not for this application) that has basically the same part no., but IS NOT the correct part. Make sure the new one is the same as the old one!

It may take a few drive cyles for the "Service Engine" light to go off, but it should go off on it's own. Or you could take your truck someplace and have them clear the code immediately.

If the solenoid valve doesn't get replaced right away, it's not the end of the world! The truck will operate normally without it, although the PCM will not be able to properly control the boost pressure under some conditions, which could lead to turbo surge and possibly turbo damage (most unlikely however!).

Hope that helps. Good luck...

************************************************** *

ON EDIT: One more thing you might want to do: Remove all of the information (in PINK) from your signature! This will show up with every post you make.

The "signature" is a place for you to put information about your truck (model, engine modidications, etc.), not a place to put a post question!


************************************************** *

Al in SoCal

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AFE Stage II w/PG-7
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Swamps Stage II Single-shots
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...plus some other goodies...

Last edited by calico5string; 05-29-2009 at 12:44 PM.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-29-2009, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F350BLONDIE View Post
Wow Okay Cool...............so No One Can Help...............alrighty Then This Forum Sucks And The Other One Where The People Helped Me Is Where I Need To Go Apparently...............and The One Idiot Wonders Why People Get Mad And Cuss.............gee, I Wonder Why...........well, If Anyone Wants To Be Cool And Help Me Out I'd Appreciate It......,.....thank You
Yer a girl, arent you.... A young girl, likely....
Yes, its highly probable that your Waste gate controller solenoid has taken a crap. Start there. As stated, check it with a multimeter, if you even know how, for continuity. Welcome to the Diesel Stop, anyhow, Blondie. Another issue to look for is the green line and red lines. Check the rubber connection boots at each end for cracks and leaks, and check the lines themselves for cracks or other damage. It may be a really simple fix. Also, unhook the electrical connector and check to see if theres any crap stuck in it, and blow it out if there is. As stated, if you end up needing a new solenoid, be sure to cart it with you to the Stealership, and be sure to match it to the part they try to sell you.

Turn off the bold large type, fix your signature, and try to be patient with us. We are but humble Dieselheads, we have jobs and families, and we ARE here to lend you a hand. (Well, MOST of us are.)


I like you already. Yer silly.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-29-2009, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeperstroke View Post
Yer a girl, arent you.... A young girl, likely....
LOL! Like...um...you think...maybe...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeperstroke View Post
I like you already. Yer silly.
I think you just like her 'cause she's a girl!!


OKAY, Back on topic: as sleeperstroke said ^^, while you've got the red and green lines unhooked, see if you can blow some air through them; make sure they're all clear.

Here's some more info on the WGC system:


You could also verify power to the WGC solenoid by checking for power on the WGC solenoid connector, between "pin 2" (in the diagram above) and ground (battery negative). You should see ~12 volts with the key "on" (engine off).

One last check (If you have access to a small hand-held vacuum pump): Disconnect the red line from the waste gate actuator and connect your vacuum pump to it (the actuator). Pull a vacuum on the actuator and see if it holds. If it does: the diaphram in the actuator is OK. If it does NOT: you need to replace the waste gate actuator; it has a leaking diaphram.

Good luck...

Al in SoCal

2000 F350 SRW CC 4X4
AFE Stage II w/PG-7
Garrett 38R Turbo
Swamps Stage II Single-shots
Stealth Dual-HPOP
ITP Custom-modified Regulated-return Fuel System
DP-Tuner PCM & F-5 chip (Live tuned!)
Autometer Gauges (Pyro, Boost, Eng oil temp)
Non-EBPV Pedestal
AIH Delete
"T444e" Open CCV
4" Custom S/S Exhaust into 5" Dual Aussie Stacks
ZF 6-Spd "Hand-shaker"
Southbend Double-Disc clutch
...plus some other goodies...

Last edited by calico5string; 05-29-2009 at 02:15 PM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-29-2009, 09:16 PM
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How do I get this thread back to fitting on one page with out having to scroll right to read the 2nd Half?

Some of us just take longer to learn the ropes..... and then some never learn and leave in a large hufff........

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-29-2009, 09:27 PM
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In the lower right corner of your screen just above the task bar time, correct it to show 100%, there is a little black down arrow click on it.

99.5 F350 XLT Lariat 4X4 4R100 4.10 DW CC LB Centurion conversion, 183K miles Garret Turbo, Radio SD &Tape, SP Performance 40-60-80 chip, 100 Gal.Transfer Flow W/Trimax Control Aux. fuel tank. ScanGaugeII, Boost, EGT, Trans. Temp. Oil Temp. Build date 03/99

92 F350 2WD 7.3 IDIT E4OD CC LB dually Banks turbo US Gear O/U, 79K on the engine. 129K body.

Have AutoEnginuity W/Ford enhanced. Lima OH area.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-29-2009, 09:35 PM
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have it fitting now I can not read it, and have no idea if I am typing this right......

2000 E350 7.3PSD, Hellwig Stablizer bar, 1.5"spacers from old Correct track OR,140 Lightforce with covers, 5x7 LED's From Truck-lite, extras in the bumper. 4"Aero Turbin and 4" all the way back. 1705 program, Scangauge II,265/75/16E, My Photos http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...ser/32366/sl/a
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 07:06 PM
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Hi, loved your information about the DTC codes. I have the code #P1249 on my 2001 F250 7.3 ltr. I this something I need to fix? (Or just have the code cleared out of the computer?) I am using a Hypertech tuner.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 07:28 PM
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Hi, loved your information about the DTC codes. I have the code #P1249 on my 2001 F250 7.3 ltr. I this something I need to fix? (Or just have the code cleared out of the computer?) I am using a Hypertech tuner.
If your tuner can clear the code, then go ahead and clear it. Drive the truck awhile and see if the code returns (you may or may not get a "service engine soon" light). If it comes back fairly quickly, it's a good bet the WGC solenoid is bad.

As mentioned above, it's not the end of the world if it's not fixed immediately, but it is an annoyance...

Good Luck!

Al in SoCal

2000 F350 SRW CC 4X4
AFE Stage II w/PG-7
Garrett 38R Turbo
Swamps Stage II Single-shots
Stealth Dual-HPOP
ITP Custom-modified Regulated-return Fuel System
DP-Tuner PCM & F-5 chip (Live tuned!)
Autometer Gauges (Pyro, Boost, Eng oil temp)
Non-EBPV Pedestal
AIH Delete
"T444e" Open CCV
4" Custom S/S Exhaust into 5" Dual Aussie Stacks
ZF 6-Spd "Hand-shaker"
Southbend Double-Disc clutch
...plus some other goodies...
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 05:21 PM
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Is there a link for a new solenoid? my friend needs one

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 01:45 AM
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If you all are still on I could use some advise please.

Just for perspective.

2003 7.3 Excursion 193000, Large K&N air filter, flashpaq superchip, 35" tires and 4" exhaust. Turbo was rebuilt at the dealer 5 months & about 5000 miles ago. Blew out on the road and Wife drove it about 40+miles. Dumped most of the oil out of the exhaust and I thought it was shot. $3500. later it was rebuilt at dealer in Gillette, Wyoming. and haven't had any issues for about 5000 miles. but I don't live in WYO and dealer here SUCKS.

Got home last week from a 10,000 mile 5 month working road trip and I was stoked on how well my baby ran except for the turbo incident. Prior to the trip I has flushed and serviced rear dif, tranny, fuel and oil and change oil 5000 later Today I had been running errands for about an hour with the AC on, there was some start and stop, freeway and street prior to all this but all gauges seem normal, and rove through a decent road pond this weekend (if it matters).

Accelerating up a hill today and noticed it wasn't up shifting to 3rd about 40 mph I guess. I backed off till I got to the top of the hill then accelerated again and same thing. Stayed in 2nd someplace around 3000 rpm for about a mile to home. Parked it, turned it off for about 5 min. I had to move it for the trash truck so started up put it in drive and nothing, put it in reverse nothing. Shut it off and started it back up and put it in drive and it hesitated then went into gear. No Check Engine light.
After that I plugged in the programmer and checked the code. Only code was "1249 waste gate failed" I cleared the code and took it back out on the road, goosed it on flat same thing. Then went up a hill and same thing but when I backed off to about 2500 rpm it up shifted to 3rd. Then when I was coming down the hill decelerating from 50 to a light the down shift was good from OD I turned OD off and it down shifted to 4 then to 3rd then from 3rd to 2nd the rpm jumped to about 3500+ for a second like it was a rev in Neutral then it down shifted to 2nd. Babied it the last mile home and checked the code again but this time there were no codes at all. I then reprogrammed from performance to stock, went through all the vacuum and electric connections and cleaned the engine, air filter & undercarriage with soap and water because well, it was real dirty and there seemed to be some blow-by at some of the sensors and oil at the tyranny pan, vacuum and turbo & exhaust plumbing, possibly from when the turbo went out. At least now I can hopefully see if any leaking or blow-by continues and it's just easier to work on it when its clean. Haven't taken it back out yet but it seems to be running rich based on the smell of the exhaust.

But wait there's more!

When I got home the first time today I also noticed the battery light was flickering then staying on too.
I installed new battery's and starter about 9 months ago. Alternator and both battery's all reading 13.75 hot on volt meter. Let it cool off, checked and cleaned the engine, etc and all wired connections and put a little distilled in the cells (about 3/4"), no light at start up but it came back on after it sat running for about 15 min.

Doubt their all related but is it even possible?

I can swap the alternator ez fix.
I guess the bigger question is if what appears to be a potential bad waste gate solenoid or canister or vacuum connector at the solenoid (black rubber duplex connector looks a little old & cracked) Can any or all of this be related to not up shifting to 3rd and or not going into gear at all? and the rpm jump described? Or three separate things all at once?
- Power?
- Vacuum?
- Trany?
CRAP! Not a savvy trouble shooting mechanic but I can change out most bolt on parts. Don't have allot of cash to go back to the crooked local dealer. (WAAAA!)

Any advise is much appreciated!
Hope to hear from someone.
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