99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Top: Here is the water pump from the top down, it's leaking from the bottom of that point circled. http://i.imgur.com/I5JcO.jpg
I'm wondering if I need to replace the whole part or just reseat the hose. Another thing is that someone tried to tighten the bolt before, and stripped the head, so just tightening it is nearly impossible.
It looks more like it is coming from the inlet flange - water pump interface. That's a common leak site. There is an o-ring in there. The culprit often times is the aluminum seat on the water pump side becomes pitted and the o-ring won't seat. When I had that problem, I built the seat up with JB Weld and fixed the issue with a new o-ring. Then my water pump died a month later - that fixed the problem for good.
If your bolt is stripped, you could spend the time and energy to insert a Helicoil, build up any pitting in the o-ring seat, and hope it lasts. Or, you could replace the water pump and be done with it. Airtex is the OEM supplier. They are about $70 at RockAuto.
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2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
I'm just gonna replace it if its only $70... I'm glad you let me know RockAuto has them, because I was about to shell out some serious dough to buy it from Tousley.
I would definitely do the dual alternator hose. The thermostat housing depends on how yours is - if its pitted - replace it. I wouldn't change your thermostat unless you are having issues with it. A new one has a greater chance of being bad than a known good one has of failing. This would be a great time to do a flush and upgrade to ELC coolant.
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2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
I would replace all of those if I were you. You can also get an upper hose that runs around the belt instead of through it. You wouldn't have to remove the upper hose to take off the belt. Make sure you get the Motorcraft thermostat as well. Just my opinion, I feel Motorcraft is best for the trucks.
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2001 F-250 4X4 CC SB 7.3 4R100 3.73, BFGoodrich All-Terrain TA/KO, Motorcraft filters, Mile Marker manual hub locks w/ESOF (No hub "floating"), AIH delete, Rust-Oleum bed coating, Silverstar Ultra headlamps w/ clear headlight assemblies, 5,000K LED interior lamps; Moog greaseable u-joints, ball-joints, front hub assemblies; retractable bed hitch, original black CPS (BEST "mod" I have), Energy Suspension bushings, Red Heavy Duty ELC, Edge Evolution 15001 (for gauges), Walker BTM, Donaldson AIS
I can recommend the billet thermostat housing from dieselsite.com, though it is about $46, and their 203F thermostat. Also, use something like Permatex RTV for Waterpumps. A small tube costs about 3.79 at autozone or o'reilys. Used it between the pump and the tstat housing, to hold the wp gasket in place, and when attaching the water inlet tube and haven't had any leaks.
I had about a 2 year long leak where the water inlet tube attached to the wp and was just waiting for the wp to fail, which it did. Unless your pump is new, I would just replace it, rather than trying to fix the leak. To fix the leak, you'ld have to drain about 5 gallons + of coolant, take off the lower hose, take off the inlet tube and probably replace it, and put it back together (with the RTV stuff). Just the O-ring, for me, hasn't proved sufficient either at the inlet tube or at the tstat housing.
I used the Chevron Delo ELC and it was very hard to find. You could check the Chevron.com site and look for the distributors in your area, then call them to see which retailers in your area have ordered it (if they won't sell it to you directly). Another option is to check with the big truck service stations/shops. I found after the fact that I would have been better off using the Catepillar CAT-1 ELC because there was a local place that worked on their equipment that had it in the 100% or 50% concentrate. NAPA has one that is also compatible. Somewhere on the site there is list of the possibilities. Another is Rotella ELC, which is also probably more widely available than the Chevron DELO ELC.
I also just found out Wal-Mart doesn't carry distilled water, could I use reverse osmosis water to flush my fluid with? Following these rules Coolant changing instructions....
I'll have to check my base's commissary, but I don't know where else to look for distilled water.
RO water should be just fine unless its the kind that has minerals added back in for flavor. My WalMart has distilled water. So do the local grocery stores.
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2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
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