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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 01-25-2011, 01:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Water pump replacement

How hard is this to replace? I replaced the one on my '93 and it didn't seem too terribly hard. Are there any tips anyone can suggest like whether I need to put sealant on the gasket and stuff like that. It looks like if I take the burp tank and the fan shroud off, it shouldn't be too difficult. At the same time I will probably change the coolant, other than adding some every now and then, I've never changed it.
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1993 F-250 Reg. Cab 4x4. XLT. 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 4.10 rear, Fleetguard WF2077 coolant filter. Born: 9/92, 163k, Lumbar bench with armrest. White on top, blue in middle, white on bottom. Clearance lights,DeeZee diamond plate running boards to back of cab. True dual exhausts with glasspacks and 4" stainless tips. Pretty well stock except for Pioneer CD player.
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Old 01-25-2011, 02:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The hardest part is getting the fan clutch off without an impact hammer. With the hammer - its a breeze. Here's a step by step video that might help:

POWERSTROKEHELP.COM - The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners
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Old 01-25-2011, 03:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The proper way to remove the fan clutch is with a wrench and pulley holding tool. Hammering on it with an air chisel is not good for the fan clutch. It does work, but the system isn't designed for that kind of abuse. You can brinnel the bearings, causing failure down the road. A pulley holding tool will cost about $25 to buy and could probably be obtained as a free loaner from many auto parts stores. A large adjustable wrench to fit the nut, along with a cheater bar if needed will do the trick nicely and not damage anything.

(I guess I'm one of the guys he talks about sending him "hate mail", although he can do whatever he wants. Maybe it generates revenue for him when something breaks after he's worked on it. He talks about "doing it right, then shows how not to do it on the video. I'm just glad he's not working on my truck, which he never will.)
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I wish I could find a new pump like the one he has in the videos, with the full cast outlet instead of a bolt on neck, and new long bolts. The one I got has the neck and no new bolts. The whole process doesn't look to terribly difficult.
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2000 F-350 Super Cab,Long Box,4x4,7.3L PSD, Bully Dog Chip,6 sp. LEVER ACTION, Camper Pkg.,200k,Lariat, Clearance lights, White on top,Gold on bottom,Gold interior. 285/75/16 BFG's, Dieselsite.com 203* T-stat, alum. T-stat neck and coolant filter kit with Fleetguard WF2077 filter added.
1993 F-250 Reg. Cab 4x4. XLT. 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 4.10 rear, Fleetguard WF2077 coolant filter. Born: 9/92, 163k, Lumbar bench with armrest. White on top, blue in middle, white on bottom. Clearance lights,DeeZee diamond plate running boards to back of cab. True dual exhausts with glasspacks and 4" stainless tips. Pretty well stock except for Pioneer CD player.
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I used the same video when I did mine. I had zero problem with the removal and installation. Its a pretty straight forward job. The only recommendation I have is replace the bolts on the thermostat housing, and replace the housing if its pitted. The bolts can be had at Napa, you just have to take in an old one so they can match up threads, might be slightly longer but should work just fine. Little anti-seize on em and your good to go in case you need to get back at the Tstat or replace the housing down the road.
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Do you think I should replace those 3 long bolts in the pump itself to if I can find them? Also leaning toward replacing the rad. hoses to since they're 11 years old now.
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2000 F-350 Super Cab,Long Box,4x4,7.3L PSD, Bully Dog Chip,6 sp. LEVER ACTION, Camper Pkg.,200k,Lariat, Clearance lights, White on top,Gold on bottom,Gold interior. 285/75/16 BFG's, Dieselsite.com 203* T-stat, alum. T-stat neck and coolant filter kit with Fleetguard WF2077 filter added.
1993 F-250 Reg. Cab 4x4. XLT. 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 4.10 rear, Fleetguard WF2077 coolant filter. Born: 9/92, 163k, Lumbar bench with armrest. White on top, blue in middle, white on bottom. Clearance lights,DeeZee diamond plate running boards to back of cab. True dual exhausts with glasspacks and 4" stainless tips. Pretty well stock except for Pioneer CD player.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossman View Post
How hard is this to replace?
Here are the words from the workshop manual:

Quote:

SECTION 303-03: Engine Cooling
2000 F-Super Duty/Excursion/Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Water Pump ó7.3L Diesel Engine



Removal and Installation
1. Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.

2. Remove the cooling system fan and fan clutch. For additional information, refer to FanóBlade, Clutch and Shroud, Pickup Chassis in this section.

3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the water pump outlet tube.

4. Remove the thermostat and housing.
Remove the three water outlet bolts. (15 lb/ft = easy does it when reinstalling)
Remove the thermostat housing.
Remove the thermostat and O-ring.

5. Remove the accessory drive belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .

6. Disconnect the heater hose from the water pump.

7. Remove the two bolts and the water outlet tube. (18 lb/ft when reinstalling)

8. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor connector, if equipped.

9. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor electrical harness from the water pump.
..Remove the bolt.
..Disconnect the pin-type retainer and position the harness away from the water pump.

10. Remove the four bolts and the water pump pulley. (18 lb/ft)

11. Remove the six bolts and the water pump. (18 lb/ft)

12. Clean the water pump gasket surfaces.

13. To install, reverse the removal procedure. (Use a torque wrench and don't tighten the bolts more than spec - or you'll be sorry.)
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
end of waterpump replacement procedures;


Quote:
At the same time I will probably change the coolant, other than adding some every now and then, I've never changed it.
Replace the thermostat, both radiator hoses, and consider also replacing the heater hoses at the same time. Plus inside your coolung system is probably a big mess, so flush it out good using tap water then several times with distilled water. I would also install a coolant filter while you're at it. Here is a link for flushing the cooling system:
Cooling System Flush And Fill Methods For The Average Joe And The Perfectionest

And here is a link for a good source for a coolant filter:
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...WPROD&ProdID=8
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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Hopefully the block drains aren't in redicolus places like on my IDI like up behind the starter. I replaced the thermostat a little over 2 years ago and added a coolant filter which I have changed twice. I'll look at the heater hoses. Thanks for the reply
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1993 F-250 Reg. Cab 4x4. XLT. 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 4.10 rear, Fleetguard WF2077 coolant filter. Born: 9/92, 163k, Lumbar bench with armrest. White on top, blue in middle, white on bottom. Clearance lights,DeeZee diamond plate running boards to back of cab. True dual exhausts with glasspacks and 4" stainless tips. Pretty well stock except for Pioneer CD player.
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:07 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Instead of the block drains, I put a Prestone tap in and flushed it really good. Two distilled water flushes and I figure its as clean as I needed to get it. I used the Shell ELC coolant - nice Aggie Maroon color.
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossman View Post
Hopefully the block drains aren't in redicolus places like on my IDI like up behind the starter.
Yes, the block drain plug on the passenger side of the engine is behind the starter. But notice the procedures state:


"Options I didnít use.

If you remove both block plugs as well as draining the radiator and lower radiator hose, the tap water flush should not require as many cycles to get all the color out of the system. But that is a PITA, so I didnít even think about it. Without removing the block plugs, mine was clear water after two tap-water flush cycles."

So you can do an excellent tap-water flush without removing the block plugs, as long as you remove the thermostat and use the Prestone flush kit. But if you do the quick and dirty procedures, which does not include a through flush, then you definitely need to remove the block plugs.
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I appreciate everyone's input. As far as flushing the block without removing the drain plugs, how's it done? Or what I should say is like where does the water go in at(where does hose go) and come out at? Do I do this with the water pump on or off? Call me clueless haha, but I just want to do this right. I guess I'm thinking that flushing with water wouldn't there be a bunch of water left over inside because it can't get low enough to drain out. Or is the water pump the lowest spot. Let's say I've just popped the hood of my truck, as far as flushing and changing coolant what's the next step(i.e. is flushing done before taking water pump off, etc.)? I know by writing this makes my look like a huge idiot lol, but I just want to do it right.
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1993 F-250 Reg. Cab 4x4. XLT. 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 4.10 rear, Fleetguard WF2077 coolant filter. Born: 9/92, 163k, Lumbar bench with armrest. White on top, blue in middle, white on bottom. Clearance lights,DeeZee diamond plate running boards to back of cab. True dual exhausts with glasspacks and 4" stainless tips. Pretty well stock except for Pioneer CD player.
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Prestone makes a flush kit that has a garden hose adapter that fits into your heater hose. Basically, a t-fitting. You put that inline on your heater hose. Most people pull their thermostat before flushing. You run your garden hose wide open with the motor running with the reservoir cap off. The water runs out the reservoir, down onto your fan, and sprays all over everything - so you basically wash the inside and outside at the same time... The kit does have a plastic diverter that you would put into the radiator fill to divert the water away from the fan, but it doesn't fit our trucks...
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Old 01-27-2011, 09:50 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossman View Post
As far as flushing the block without removing the drain plugs, how's it done?
Details are in that link I posted above. Here it is again. Use the "perfectionest" procedures and you'll do an excellent job.
Cooling System Flush And Fill Methods For The Average Joe And The Perfectionest

Quote:
Or what I should say is like where does the water go in at (where does hose go) and come out at?
You install the Prestone flush valve in a heater hose. The garden hose connects to that flush valve. You also remove the thermostat and open the radiator drain valve, as well as remove the "radiator cap", which is the pressure cap on the degas bottle. Then when you turn on the water, the tap water goes into a heater hose and flows through the engine and the heater core and back into the radiator, where it either drains out or overflows out the open degas bottle.

Quote:
Do I do this with the water pump on or off?
On. Finish installing the water pump and connect the new radiator hoses before you flush with tap water from the garden hose.

Quote:
I guess I'm thinking that flushing with water wouldn't there be a bunch of water left over inside because it can't get low enough to drain out.
There will be about a gallon of water left in the heater core after you're done. If you don't drain the block plugs, there will be another gallon or so in the block. But if you allow the radiator drain to finish draining, that will drain off almost all the water in the radiator. There will still be a cup or so of water in the lower radiator hose, but the procedures advise you to disconnect that hose and drain off that last cupfull or so.

After flushing with the garden hose until the drain water is clear, if you flush 4 times with distilled water, there will be almost pure distilled water left in the heater and block. That's what you want. Pour in the antifreeze concentrate then top off with more distilled water and you'll have the right concentration of distilled water and antifreeze.

Because of that gallon or so of water in the heater and block, you must use antifreeze concentrate instead of a 50/50 mixture. When you pour in 4 gallons of new antifreeze concentrate, then top off with distilled water, that will result in better than a 50/50 mixture.

Quote:
Let's say I've just popped the hood of my truck, as far as flushing and changing coolant what's the next step (i.e. is flushing done before taking water pump off, etc.)?
Follow the procedures in the link above, modified because you are also replacing the water pump. First go to the stores (or internet for some items maybe?) and buy everything you'll need to getter done. In your case that includes the water pump.

Next, drain the cooling system. Then install the Prestone flush kit, remove the thermostat, and replace the water pump and the radiator hoses. Don't clamp the new radiator hoses until the end of the flush procedures. After the water pump is installed and buttoned up, then go back to the drain and flush procedurs and complete the job.
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Old 01-27-2011, 07:56 PM   #14 (permalink)
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My experience was... Used a chain wrench (vice-grip style) on the pulley and a "monkey" wrench (smooth faced pipe wrench) on the fan nut. Came loose with a extension added to the pipe wrench (used a pipe over the handle for more leverage).

I had the most trouble getting the small thermostat housing off the old pump. Had to use a small (4") grinder with a cut-off blade and "saw" below the housing to cut the bolts off as the small bolts were corroded and "refused" to be removed and we tried every thing we had in the toolbox!

Be sure to buy a new pump that comes with the tube on it as those bolts don't come loose either and the face of the tube will be corroded anyway and will probably leak! Oh and don't forget to get the thermostat, the gasket (O-ring) and the new bolts to reattach the housing (take one with you to the "A-Zone")... my 2 cents worth.
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2001 F-250 SuperDuty Extended Cab SWB
155,000 miles had 99,000 when purchased used.
Replaced (1) rear spring; both batteries; alternator (twice); upper/lower ball joints, tie rods, frt brakes;
water pump; repaired block plug end (twice).
Need to's:install GPR (Stancor 586-902 is on the way); check glow plugs.

Last edited by ricobob2; 01-27-2011 at 07:57 PM. Reason: sp
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Old 01-27-2011, 11:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Got it put back together, just waiting on new upper rad. hose to complete then finish flushing and we'll be good to go. Thanks everyone for your input.
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2000 F-350 Super Cab,Long Box,4x4,7.3L PSD, Bully Dog Chip,6 sp. LEVER ACTION, Camper Pkg.,200k,Lariat, Clearance lights, White on top,Gold on bottom,Gold interior. 285/75/16 BFG's, Dieselsite.com 203* T-stat, alum. T-stat neck and coolant filter kit with Fleetguard WF2077 filter added.
1993 F-250 Reg. Cab 4x4. XLT. 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 4.10 rear, Fleetguard WF2077 coolant filter. Born: 9/92, 163k, Lumbar bench with armrest. White on top, blue in middle, white on bottom. Clearance lights,DeeZee diamond plate running boards to back of cab. True dual exhausts with glasspacks and 4" stainless tips. Pretty well stock except for Pioneer CD player.
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