7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Just put on dfuser's HX oil crossover line. After taking it for a quick drive to check for leaks, when I popped the hood there was some very light smoke. No leaks tho.
Anyway, go to the following link, page 3 of 4, and it's the right picture in the middle row that's smoking. That black box w/ 2 bolts and the open hose coming from it. Just some light smoke coming from that hose. Perhaps it's purging air from the install or something? Truck runs n drives great, but I never noticed that smoke before.
I didn't find the link, maybe you forgot to post it.
Anyways, sounds like it is the CCV box. Are you sure the hose coming off of it is not attached to anything? It should go up into the black intake tube. That smoke is actually oil vapors, it is a popular mod to route that hose to the back of the vehicle so that oil doesn't collect in the intercooler and intercooler boots. But when you do that you need to much sure to plug the hole in the intake tube, if not your engine is sucking in dirty air, not good.
Now if you find the hose is connected and still have the leak you may want to check the o-rings where the box bolts down on top of the valve cover as those are common to become deformed.
And it looks just like the picture in the link, that's now in the first post. It's the tube that's open in that pic. Does it go into the intake tube? Because I have the 4" compressor intake sleeve that comes w the ATS...
Please help quick as I have to drive home in the morning.
And it looks just like the picture in the link, that's now in the first post. It's the tube that's open in that pic. Does it go into the intake tube? Because I have the 4" compressor intake sleeve that comes w the ATS...
Please help quick as I have to drive home in the morning.
Jerry,
The tube you are referring to is the Fords version of the crank case vent. And yes, it is usually routed to the intake... If you have it open like shown in the attached picture(not plugged into the intake) then you will see some smoke/oil vapor coming out of it. The black box that the tube is attached to is actually a filter of sorts that prevents any larger particles from passing into the turbo wheel.
Do you have the black tube vented to air or is it plugged into your intake tube?
__________________
Mike Soderquist
"If it ain't smokin', it must be brokin!... or it's just tuned badly..."
- F250 PSD born 4/01 in Kentucky USA, 4x4, 3.73 Rear End, Ext. Cab, Short Bed...
- 4" Pro Comp Lift, 315/75/R16 Pro Comp AT's, Tymar Intake, 4" turbo back exhaust and BTS Valve Body, ITP 3 Gauge Pillar(Pyro/Boost/Trans), Trans & Diff Covers and Rotor Pros Drilled/Slotted Rotors + No-Dust Pads.
That black box is the "doghouse" or CCV cover. If you replaced your stock sleeve that was bolted to the bracket connected to the intake on the compressor, you effectively gave yourself a budget CCV mod. Your venting your crankcase breather into your engine compartment. You need to either reconnect that, or run a 3/4" hose off that rubber 90* and down to the back of your Ex.
I would look into a CCV mod wither off the shelf or homemade. I have one that runs down into a cannister to collect the oily runoff and then out the back of the truck.
__________________
2002 X PSD, Billy Boat 4", AirRaid, Gillett Diesel Service Turbo, High Output turbo exhaust housing, KCM HPX Crossover, ITP Overboost Annihilator, Gauges: Boost, EGT, Trans Temp, Fuel Pressure and Water Temp
DP-Tuner 6 pos No Start - 140 Aggressive
Thanks Jody and Diane
Yup, you guys were correct. Right after I posted I went out and felt around and found the nub it fits onto. Since I'd never taken that part of the intake off, I didn't know to look for it.
Looks like I'll note dfuser and itpdiesel to add a note for that in their directions.
THANKS for the quick replies. Saved me.
I think I will get the CCV mod. I've seen it but never really considered it. I really would rather not go the way I've seen with filters and such. I'm assuming you can either run a tube all the way to the rear, or run a hose to a collecter jar of some type, and another line out of that for the gas to escape to the air?
The one thing I wonder is if some oil is actually good for the turbo. Just to keep everything lubed. But obviously the boots leak and such. Mine aren't terrible, but it wouldn't be bad for them to stop leaking...
The CCV mod is easy. I don't think that the oily residue has any benefit since it only gets run through the compressor side of the turbo and ends up making a mess. You also have to consider the amount of oil that accumulates inside the Intercooler. I turned the "Doghouse" around and ran a 3/4" hose up about 5" higher than the doghouse exit, this allows most of the oily residue to run back into the valve cover. Then it exits into a cannister mounted on the frame rail by the oil filter. I used a small drain valve used on air compressors on the bottom of the cannister to drain any oil that gets into the cannister. Then it runs out the back.
Since the original CCV is a positive style CCV, meaning it actually pulls a vacuum off the vent, some have reported developing oil leaks form built up pressure inside the Crankcase. For me, I have had this mod for about 40K and have not had any problems.
There are a lot of good options out there, have a look.
__________________
2002 X PSD, Billy Boat 4", AirRaid, Gillett Diesel Service Turbo, High Output turbo exhaust housing, KCM HPX Crossover, ITP Overboost Annihilator, Gauges: Boost, EGT, Trans Temp, Fuel Pressure and Water Temp
DP-Tuner 6 pos No Start - 140 Aggressive
Thanks Jody and Diane
Any moderator...if this is off topic now, feel free to move us or I'll make another thread if you'd rather. Didn't mean to get this to a CCV convo.
However, I never heard anyone say anything about leaks created. I've seen a couple of kits our sponsors make, but it seems the same parts would be MUCH cheaper bought at Home Depot or the like.
NorCal, what's the point of having the 5" rise in tubing if you already have a canister? Just to empty the canister less? And, since I'm new to this mod, I'm assuming the doghouse is that black box with the hose I forgot? The hose on mine swiveled easily...seems like you could just get a double male 3/4" adapter btwn that hose and a new length, run the hose down into the top of the canister w/ your pet****, and then another hose out of the top routed to the back to get rid of vapors? Does the "vapor line" need to be 3/4"? And do you use heater hose for the 3/4", or does it matter what you use as long as oil resistant?
The 5" rise or loop is there to keep as much oil in the engine as possible. It runs down and into the top of the cannister. The cannister is made out of 3" black PVC with an end cap on each end, it looks pretty clean. The top of the cannister has two 3/4" barbed fittings for the line going in and the 3/4" line going out. On the bottom is the small fitting used to drain the cannister when I change my oil. That is why I mounted it so close to the oil filter. I used 3/4" heater hose wrapped with steel braided covering (for looks) because it is durable and the actual fitting on the stock doghouse is 3/4". I wanted to keep the same diameter hose throughout and I made sure not to introduce any restrictions along the length of the hose. From the cannister back is regular 3/4" hose that runs the length of the drivers side frame rail and out the back.
I get a lot of vapors continually streaming out the back of the mod and I know under power it is definitely venting correctly. If you search around here for CCV mod you will find a couple posters that have introduced leaks that they feel resulted from the natural venting of their CCV. Mine, like I said has been running for 40K, I get very little oil drainage and no leaks. I don't have any pics, but it looks fairly clean and neat as far as homemade mods are concerned. I fab'd a clean mounting bracket and used an existing hole in the frame rail to mount the bracket and cannister.
__________________
2002 X PSD, Billy Boat 4", AirRaid, Gillett Diesel Service Turbo, High Output turbo exhaust housing, KCM HPX Crossover, ITP Overboost Annihilator, Gauges: Boost, EGT, Trans Temp, Fuel Pressure and Water Temp
DP-Tuner 6 pos No Start - 140 Aggressive
Thanks Jody and Diane
I would advise that if you reroute the crank case to vent to atmosphere under the truck somewhere, make it as far back on the truck as reasonably possible. Else you'll get a cloud of vapor coming in your window when your waiting at stop lights and such... It stinks! Either that or do a canister type CCV to filter the oil out before it gets to the intake.
__________________
Mike Soderquist
"If it ain't smokin', it must be brokin!... or it's just tuned badly..."
- F250 PSD born 4/01 in Kentucky USA, 4x4, 3.73 Rear End, Ext. Cab, Short Bed...
- 4" Pro Comp Lift, 315/75/R16 Pro Comp AT's, Tymar Intake, 4" turbo back exhaust and BTS Valve Body, ITP 3 Gauge Pillar(Pyro/Boost/Trans), Trans & Diff Covers and Rotor Pros Drilled/Slotted Rotors + No-Dust Pads.
However, I never heard anyone say anything about leaks created. I've seen a couple of kits our sponsors make, but it seems the same parts would be MUCH cheaper bought at Home Depot or the like.
The leaks arise when a positive pressure is trapped inside the crank case... That positive pressure, although very slight is enough to push oil out of seals. The idea of CCV is to bleed off that pressure inside the crank case. There is a very slight chance that the original vent would ever get clogged, but when you route the vent to the back of your truck with 5 or so ft of hose, there is a greater chance that the hose could become bent or get clogged and not allow the crank case pressure to vent.
__________________
Mike Soderquist
"If it ain't smokin', it must be brokin!... or it's just tuned badly..."
- F250 PSD born 4/01 in Kentucky USA, 4x4, 3.73 Rear End, Ext. Cab, Short Bed...
- 4" Pro Comp Lift, 315/75/R16 Pro Comp AT's, Tymar Intake, 4" turbo back exhaust and BTS Valve Body, ITP 3 Gauge Pillar(Pyro/Boost/Trans), Trans & Diff Covers and Rotor Pros Drilled/Slotted Rotors + No-Dust Pads.
The leaks arise when a positive pressure is trapped inside the crank case... That positive pressure, although very slight is enough to push oil out of seals. The idea of CCV is to bleed off that pressure inside the crank case. There is a very slight chance that the original vent would ever get clogged, but when you route the vent to the back of your truck with 5 or so ft of hose, there is a greater chance that the hose could become bent or get clogged and not allow the crank case pressure to vent.
All true, that is why I used Heater Hose because it is more rigid than regular rubber hose. I also made sure that no kinks were in the line running down to the new cannister and made sure to lock the hose down with a couple brackets along the way. I also made sure to route the exit hose from the cannister all the way out the back of the vehicle. I thought about welding a 3/4 bung to the end of my exhaust. That would probably pull the CCV vapor through the line and into the soot mix, but decided against the extra work. I would not tap into the exhaust before the muffler since there would be back pressure that would cause the CCV to add pressure to the already pressurized Crankcase. All in all it is a good mod. I have no oily residue in the charged air side and I removed my Intercooler and cleaned the existing oil residue from there. I don't know how much that bought me, but I know it is clean.
__________________
2002 X PSD, Billy Boat 4", AirRaid, Gillett Diesel Service Turbo, High Output turbo exhaust housing, KCM HPX Crossover, ITP Overboost Annihilator, Gauges: Boost, EGT, Trans Temp, Fuel Pressure and Water Temp
DP-Tuner 6 pos No Start - 140 Aggressive
Thanks Jody and Diane
Cool. I was surprised at how much residue comes out of there. Not a TON of dripping oil, but lots of vapor. I emailed dfuser and itpdiesel to suggest they make notes of the reconnect in their directions so no one else scares themself.
I prolly will do the CCV once the weather breaks. Seems like a cheap and easy mod. Thanks for the advice guys!
If you want to see how I set up my CCV canister check out the link in my sig I got a couple pictures there. And if you're interested in getting one of those canisters let me know, I tell you the guy that makes them.
I also made sure to route the exit hose from the cannister all the way out the back of the vehicle.
That was a good plan... I learned from experience. I had the CCV mod routed to right behind my drivers side door and it was a stinky mess... So I yanked it out and went back to stock for now. When I have more time I might do a canister style mod or just route out back...
__________________
Mike Soderquist
"If it ain't smokin', it must be brokin!... or it's just tuned badly..."
- F250 PSD born 4/01 in Kentucky USA, 4x4, 3.73 Rear End, Ext. Cab, Short Bed...
- 4" Pro Comp Lift, 315/75/R16 Pro Comp AT's, Tymar Intake, 4" turbo back exhaust and BTS Valve Body, ITP 3 Gauge Pillar(Pyro/Boost/Trans), Trans & Diff Covers and Rotor Pros Drilled/Slotted Rotors + No-Dust Pads.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.