Whats your mileage on your 7.3 ? and with what repairs???

[86GLHS]

I can't count how many times the F250 has had brakes. Every corner has had a pad wear down to nothing at least once. It's seen two sets of calipers and three sets of rotors in 249K miles.

Off the top of my head bought with 40K miles.
40K BFG ATKO 33's
55K turbo
80K driver side window motor
83K tranny 2nd gear
120K BFG ATKO 33's (ran them on the Excursion for a while)
123K torque convertor (seal shrunk)
145K batteries
150K ball joints and warn hubs
155K rear leafs
165K driver door lock actuator
185K shorted wire near outside of valve cover cps, gpr, intake heater relay and probe replaced
189K water pump
190K driver side hub bearing removed and greased
198K alternator
205K fuel bowl heater element unpluged and never touched again
210K passenger door lock actuator
224K belt tensioner failed taking out belt
225K batteries glow plugs 2 bad
230K pcm
235K fuel seperator o-rings
245K Nitto 33's
249K tranny OD slipping (166K miles on $2K Ford rebuilt tranny)
For a while the truck towed 12-20K lbs weekly.

The 00 X was bought with 104K miles 11/15/03 current mileage 178K miles. Original owner had 100K mile ESP with an Oasis report stating a head light knob being replaced.

114K CPS
124K CPS (warranty)
140K passenger front door lock actuator, glow plugs none tested
143K alternator
160K glow plug relay
165K driver side ball joint and hub
170K fuel seperator o-rings

[ReefBlue]

I bought the truck with 238k on it, in the glove box was the paperwork for a warranty replacement on the waterpump at about 30k.

Between 238k and 255k, I've replaced the alternator, had a bad fuel leak on the return line and just put it in for inspection and it needs the following:

upper and lower ball joints, swaybar linkage.

Also, my hydroboost module needs to be replaced, my 4x4 gem is busted and the front diff is slowly leaking.

[Coolhand]

98K On 2002 F350, some towing up to 13K lbs. Say 20%.

Oil Changes, fuel filters, transfer case,trans service -- all on // better than schedule.

4k Rear Right Door window switch
33k CPS
35K Turn front rotors, pulsating
56K Front Brake Pads
74K Ball Joints - under warrenty
75K Change Rear Axle fluid - Put on Aluminum diff cover, refill with Amsoil 75W-140, holds an additional one quart, making a 4 quart capacity.
75k Rancho 5000 Shocks and Steering dampner
85K Turbo due to failure under warrenty
95K New rotors and pads front brakes, new belt tensioner [preventive] new alternator - DB electrical 200amp [preventative] New Warn Premium locking hubs [preventative]
95K flush radiator, new hoses and thermostat

96K Wire repair under dash after truck would idle, but no response from TPS and no dash lites or gauges - had chafed through and shorted.

98K - No leaks, uses maybe 1 quart oil in 5K miles, gets 16.x mpg city, 18-19 mpg hiway. Next fix will be the steering gear, wandering is getting worse - Other than this - looks great, runs great - Want to get another 300K minimum... [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif[/img]

Coolhand

[Mark70]

99.5 (born 1/99) with 108K, other than routine maintenance:

34K - 9/01 - under warranty replaced front left inner bearing
46K - 10/03 - installed AIS
49K - 1/04 - replaced right spindle bearing
58K - 11/04 - changed 4 shocks to Bilsteins
89K - 12/06 - new starter
94K - 6/07 - replaced all hoses, serp. belt, water pump
107K- 11/08 - GPR
108K- 11/08 - Front brakes & rotors

[MonkeyWrench]

244K (first 98K trouble free)

fuel return lines, door ajar switches, shift lever, horn relay, multifunction switch connector, 2 GPR, 1 set glowplugs, EPB sender and tube, ICP sensor, 1 set injectors, 1 IDM (which was the dealer throwing parts at my injector problem), front hubs and ball joints, 2 transmissions, water pump and fan clutch, water drain O rings, 1 alternator, IPR, dipstick tube and seal. 3 or 4 sets of batteries

Going to do up-pipes and turbo compressor wheel very soon.

Mods/upgrades--4" SS exhaust, filter upgrade, Timbren load boosters, aux. trans cooler, Frozen Rotors @ 225K

[Nittfo]

136k 2nd Luk clutch, usual brake and shock replacement. Will need new oil pan very soon - even my '92 7.3 oil pan rotted out.

[Rickie]

75,000 miles - On my second set of tires, two Glow Plug Relays, replaced OEM clutch with complete LUK setup a couple of years ago and that's it.

[Kai Schumann]

165k - steering box, brake hoses, brakes & rotors, clutch, rear seal (done at clutch) Have an intermittent short someplace in the cab - put in a mini breaker in place of the fuse till I find it.

[T_Bone]

Hi All,

1000 miles: replaced master cyl and slave on the clutch. Master had a bad stem seal from the factory.

Replaced the fuel tank sendor unit. Bad from the factory. No prewarning chime or lite. I had on 775 miles on the first tank and still had just about 3/8 of a tank left (according to the gauge) when the engine quit. Dang there went my 30mpg fill up. LMAO

I've since tested my new gauge several times and it will chime and lite at 100 miles left on the tank then 3gal more left in the tank at fill up. Of course I carry a extra 5gal when testing. My mama didn't raise no fool the second time around. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif[/img]

27k mile: I have some kind of power steering leak. The front end got the shakes on me after crossing a waste water grate in a underpass. Lucky I was at 35mph. That was my fault as the PS fluid was low. I haven't looked but that would indicate a check valve stuck open? A roundtoit project.

Problem unkown at this time. I will post a follow up after repairs.




[img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif[/img]

[Crashly]

Before 100k Previous owner replaced The u joints, turbo etc So farI have replaced:
Brake pads @ 108K
CPS @ 125K
Alternator @140K
Clutch @ 141K
Waterpump Thermostat and hoses @ 142K

[ITowBoats]

When my local International dealership (that's right no revolving door ford maintenance dept is going to touch my truck) had my motor out I asked them what kind of problems they see on 7.3L's. they service a lot of medium duty box trucks and wreckers that get driven hard and put away wet and they say that most of their work is UVC harnesses and other electrical stuff with of set of injectors here or there from somebody running crappy fuel. They said that the engine was designed so that it didn't need to be opened up until it hits 350K miles or so.

So basically, if you take care of the motor and keep it happy the truck will rot around the drivetrain long before anything breaks.

My dad is part of a fire apparatus maintenance organization. They heard of a dept. in California that has put 3 ambulance bodies on the same superduty chassis with no major overhauls so far.

[FarmMom]

Has 168,125 miles now (5/14/08) Had about 60K when I bought it in Jan 2003.
Since I have owned it: Torque converter, CPS (I was prepared with a spare when it went ~ THANKS to the board!), Water pump, an oil line that vibrated a hole in itself, front brakes, engine/ ac belts, and I am replacing the driver side window motor and both headlight assemblies myself as soon as the parts come in .

Other than that, it has run like a champ. It's my everyday vehicle and I pull a 4 horse trailer about once a week or more. With 3 kids, it's referred to as Mom's bus!

[tomjon]

148k - rotors shocks BJ's ,inner axle seals-front&rear, one locking hub , two GPR's , cps , those items just wore out.
While I was at it I replaced the unit hubs and tie rod ends.
As I type this , its leaking coolant from the pump ....so the water pump is on order along with a coolant filter.
Up next .... by-pass oil filter

[Dave Whitmer]

212,000 miles

Two CPS
Water Pump
Ball Joints

Still have the OEM clutch.

Overall, a very reliable truck.

[ReefBlue]

This just in:

261,000 miles=new CPS and blower motor.