I live in the desert, temps are 80 degrees or so at this time of year. This truck is my only vehicle and I drive it about 300 miles per week. Bought new in 2001 and have 234,500 miles on it. This last Thursday I was driving on rough dirt roads showing property, then I stopped the truck for a few minutes to wait for a friend. When I went to start it again, it just cranked like normal, but didn't start. My first actions were:
Checked the oil - OK, at the low mark on dipstick
Changed the CMP (CPS) to an old black spare one that I had removed while it was working
Added 5 gallons of fuel (it had about 1/4 tank in it)
Still wouldn't start, no apparent smoke while cranking and tack needle just bounced a little to indicate 50 RPM or so.
Observations - CMP bolt hole is stripped and the bracket was lose when I went to change it, the bolt will thread in, but not tighten up tight.
I have a superchips tuner and checked for codes. Found codes including
P0671, 3, 5, 7
Checked fuses 30 under dash and 24 under hood, both good
Towed the truck home and ran some more checks after reviewing this forum...
Bought a new CMP and installed it.
Disconnected the ICP
Still didn't start.
Checked the oil level in the HPOP reservoir, and it was low. Now I figured I had found the problem. I added a couple of cups of oil to bring it up to withing 3/4" of of the top but I was wrong, still no start. (It hasn't drained down again, so I don't know why it was low).
One of these times, I measured the voltage at the battery terminals when cranking and it was 10.9 volts.
Pulled off both of the external side of the valve cover connectors and they looked good. No burned or warped plastic.
Found the IDM and looked it over. It seemed fine, no external evidence of problems. Pulled the connector off of it and also pulled off the GPM connectors (California truck). Measured the resistance of the glow plugs from the GPM connector to ground and all 8 of them were around 1 ohm. The IDM connector was where I found the second real anomaly - when testing the resistance to ground of the injectors, the odd bank (the passenger side that had the glow plug codes thrown - codes P0671, 3, 5, 7) all showed 1.9 to 2 ohms, well within spec, while the even bank all showed from 9.5 to around 50 ohms, way too high. I had to change the odd side valve cover gasket last year due to a connector burned inside the cover, so was expecting to find a problem with GPs and injectors from the same side.
Looking for ideas on what the P1670 might mean here, why the odd GP bank would have codes but all have the correct resistance, why the even injectors would all read high resistance. Most importantly, why it won't start, and what I should do next...
2001 F250 4x4 CC SB PSD, Auto w/ 283k miles as of 3/16, California truck w/dual alts, ISSPRO guages under dash, OilGuard bypass oil filter, Rancho 5406 SS, AIS, 3 1/2" Walker BTM, WD-40 fixed my "door ajar light", aftermarket electric door locks (3 to go again), A/C heater bypass, CCV reroute, IAH delete, rebuilt tranny with FTVB (mechanical diode went out @82k). Pre-pump/in-tank mods w/ 75 micron pre-filter, 203 degree stat and coolant filter, new water pump @ 100k.