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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 10-29-2012, 04:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Won't Start

I live in the desert, temps are 80 degrees or so at this time of year. This truck is my only vehicle and I drive it about 300 miles per week. Bought new in 2001 and have 234,500 miles on it. This last Thursday I was driving on rough dirt roads showing property, then I stopped the truck for a few minutes to wait for a friend. When I went to start it again, it just cranked like normal, but didn't start. My first actions were:
Checked the oil - OK, at the low mark on dipstick
Changed the CMP (CPS) to an old black spare one that I had removed while it was working
Added 5 gallons of fuel (it had about 1/4 tank in it)
Still wouldn't start, no apparent smoke while cranking and tack needle just bounced a little to indicate 50 RPM or so.

Observations - CMP bolt hole is stripped and the bracket was lose when I went to change it, the bolt will thread in, but not tighten up tight.

I have a superchips tuner and checked for codes. Found codes including
P1670
P0475
P0671, 3, 5, 7
Checked fuses 30 under dash and 24 under hood, both good

Towed the truck home and ran some more checks after reviewing this forum...
Bought a new CMP and installed it.
Disconnected the ICP
Still didn't start.
Checked the oil level in the HPOP reservoir, and it was low. Now I figured I had found the problem. I added a couple of cups of oil to bring it up to withing 3/4" of of the top but I was wrong, still no start. (It hasn't drained down again, so I don't know why it was low).

One of these times, I measured the voltage at the battery terminals when cranking and it was 10.9 volts.

Pulled off both of the external side of the valve cover connectors and they looked good. No burned or warped plastic.

Found the IDM and looked it over. It seemed fine, no external evidence of problems. Pulled the connector off of it and also pulled off the GPM connectors (California truck). Measured the resistance of the glow plugs from the GPM connector to ground and all 8 of them were around 1 ohm. The IDM connector was where I found the second real anomaly - when testing the resistance to ground of the injectors, the odd bank (the passenger side that had the glow plug codes thrown - codes P0671, 3, 5, 7) all showed 1.9 to 2 ohms, well within spec, while the even bank all showed from 9.5 to around 50 ohms, way too high. I had to change the odd side valve cover gasket last year due to a connector burned inside the cover, so was expecting to find a problem with GPs and injectors from the same side.

Looking for ideas on what the P1670 might mean here, why the odd GP bank would have codes but all have the correct resistance, why the even injectors would all read high resistance. Most importantly, why it won't start, and what I should do next...
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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P1670 indicates no communication between the IDM and the PCM. Since you checked that connection, I would verify the IDM relay is working - swap it for its neighbor. Also, you need to verify the UVHC connection - check the resistance at the external connection and if it is the same you measured at the IDM, then take the cover off and measure the resistance at the internal connection. You need to isolate that issue - it could be shutting the IDM down completely.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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A word of advice, put some of the Kwick JB on the CPS bolt (clean it and hole good) and stick it back in there. I was getting tach movement and registering via OBD2 port as well. That wound up being my no-start issue after I spent couple hundred dollars and hours working on my truck.
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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RT,

I will track down the resistance on that harness. Do all of these harnesses go through the 42 pin connector also? I did swap the relays, but haven't tried starting again yet. Any ideas on why I would get the GP codes on the one side and injector issues on the other?

Rammertide,

Thanks for the caution. I read your thread. Sounded like a lot of work.
I was planning to pick up a stud and nut today, put it carefully to the bottom of the hole, measure and cut off to length, then glue it in. Seems like the best solution if I can pick up a few more threads at the bottom of the hole.
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Not really..it was very easy. I also got a wall stud to shove in there if need be later on down the road.

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Old 11-29-2012, 03:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Truck still doesn't start.....

I replaced the driver's side valve cover gasket and injector harness as the connector under the valve cover had two GP pins burned and it had caused the connector to open up, so was showing high resistance from the IDM to ground. All the resistance readings on both sides are good now from the IDM connector to ground through the injectors, around 3 ohms.
I switched the Cam Position sensor again for another new one, and glued in a stud, so it is well secured and seemingly in the right place.
The HP oil reservoir has stayed full.
I changed the fuel filter, and the bowl is full of fuel, and seems to pump fine.
Batteries are holding 10.7 volts during cranking.
The tachometer is showing some movement while cranking, the same as before, maybe 50 to 100 rpms.
Wait-to-start light comes on, then goes off.
Oil pressure jumps up during cranking.
No apparent smoke in the exhaust.

It is still showing basically the same codes as before:
P1670 EF Feedback
P0671 GP #1
P0673 GP #3
P0675 GP #5
P0677 GP #7
also 0475 and 0640 but I think those are from the deleted air heater and something I did to the exhaust pressure sensor. Don't think they will affect the starting.

So what do I do now? How can I test the IDM? I don't have another around here nor a good way to get one...
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Did you ever check the IDM relay? Here's a resistance test you can do to see if there is a problem in the IDM wiring - GB Remanufacturing - Tech Bulletin #103
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I did that test. That is what pointed me to the burned wiring under the valve cover. It is fixed now, and tests correctly. How can I test the IDM? What else could it be?
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocinbaja View Post
I did that test. That is what pointed me to the burned wiring under the valve cover. It is fixed now, and tests correctly. How can I test the IDM? What else could it be?
Have the injectors buzzed, swap yours into a friends truck, or do like me and overnight it to Swamps Diesel and they a reasonably priced to do the tests. I think it was $37.50 for the test.

http://*****************.com/forums/...ad.php?t=20705
(power stroke nation)

Make sure the CPS is tight!! Well not too tight, that is what causes it to get stripped. It may thread in but it could also be stripped as well. My truck was down for about 4 weeks because of this issue.
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Last edited by rammertide07; 11-30-2012 at 08:20 AM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:40 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The buzz test will tell if the IDM is good?
The cps thing is in snug now. New stud glued into the block and a nut.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocinbaja View Post
The buzz test will tell if the IDM is good?
The cps thing is in snug now. New stud glued into the block and a nut.
This is the reply from Joel Cook at Swamps Diesel:

You use the standard shipping form on the site. You will be contacted once the testing is done and credit card information will be gotten at that time. In 10 years of working on 7.3L Power Strokes I have NEVER seen an IDM that buzzed properly and passed the buzz test but would not start the truck. I believe you are not getting accurate information. We will be happy to look into this for you if you wish.

Joel Patrick Cook IISwamp's Diesel Performance & Technologywww.swampsdiesel.com615-213-2412

My opinion, its electronics and can do whatever it wants to do. But the chances of passing a buzz test and still having a bad IDM are slim. I have heard of it happening from a member recently on one of my threads.
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Last edited by rammertide07; 11-30-2012 at 11:30 AM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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My major problem is the truck is in Mexico. It is a little difficult to ship the parts to have them tested. I can look for a shop here that can do it if I know what I need to do. I might even be able to find a friend with a similar truck to swap parts (although it is a pain to get at it...). What scanners do the buzz test?
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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AutoEnginuity will do it. So will some SnapOn scanners.
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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...and the Aeroforce Interceptor FD series gauge will as will. But you'll have better luck finding the others RT mentioned much easier unless you just purchased it yourself. I have one mounted on my steering column. My dad liked it so much that he's getting one for Chirstmas. May not seem like a hard thing to do since someone else is buying it, but he's really picky about bright objects in the cab while driving at night.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:01 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I will see if I can find somebody with a suitable scanner. What else could it be, should I usted order a rebuilt IDM anyway. I really need my truck to be working...
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