Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L EngineUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
For your boost, get on the entrance ramp and stomp on it - you should be able to generate 17- 20 psi. Lack of boost is a major killer of MPG.
When my turbo finially cashed it in, I wasnt able to produce more than 10psi stomping on it, and my economy dropped from 22-24 to about 12-14.
Changed the turbo, and Injectors (and alot of other things) and now Im seeing about 14-18lb boost max.
Im getting about 22-23 again. I do almost ALL highway driving, and I cruise at 55mph. I have NO modifications, I even still use the motorcraft air filter! That will be changed soon though.
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Personal Trucks:
Red 2003 F250 XLT Crew Cab 6.0L Powerstroke FX4 162,000miles,
BONE STOCK
Black 2003 Excursion Limited 6.0L Powerstroke 178,000miles.
4" Magnaflow Turbo Back, Warn Manual Locking Hubs
I let it warm up good, then got on it good. With the pedal to the floor from 0-60 I saw no more than 11-12 PSI of boost. After I was done, I wanted to burn a $20 bill... but I figured if I truly need a new turbo, I need to save it.
Any other suggestions? This really mean I'm going to need to swap my turbo? Anything else I can try first? Thanks again.
Save yourself a future headache and buy the international up pipes if you can afford it. I bought these, they are sweet, and easy to install. to remove the old ones, just unbolt it from the manifold from the bottom and pull. They should just slip out.
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Personal Trucks:
Red 2003 F250 XLT Crew Cab 6.0L Powerstroke FX4 162,000miles,
BONE STOCK
Black 2003 Excursion Limited 6.0L Powerstroke 178,000miles.
4" Magnaflow Turbo Back, Warn Manual Locking Hubs
Short trips after cold starts in winter will kill fuel mileage. 13.5 with the short trips you describe is very much expected. My truck will use the equivalent fuel of a 10 - 15 mile trip to do a single true cold start, so if your trips are less than 10 - 15 miles after a true cold start you will get horrible fuel mileage. The people with the 18 - 20 mpg are not doing a cold start at below freezing temps and a 5 mile trip to get some milk and eggs...
Cheeseman, thanks. I'm going to be off Monday for the holiday, I have some other small projects on the truck, but I'll check the gaskets before.
$500 is going to be hard for me to spend before I'm 100% that's the issue with the truck. I'm even afraid of something like a bad sensor, but I'll try checking it a couple more times before I spend the money. Is there any other way I can diagnose it? I'll just be kicking myself so hard if it just ends up being something stupid simple and drop $500 on something I didn't need.
Did yours go out at a similar time? I've got 220xxx on the truck.
Brian, appreciate the advise. Winter is my slow time. My truck goes from regular highway use and towing, to a short commuter/grocery getter. A lot of what I've been doing is 15 mile and under trips. When I go on a longer trip once or twice a week and the engine/tranny are warm you can really tell the difference. But at 60MPH with a fully warmed engine and tranny (been running at least 30-45min) my Edge programmer still reads average MPG's around 12 traveling. Coasting has really gotten to be my best friend, and frankly if I drove like most people slamming on my brakes I'd be lucky to have 7MPG's. Maybe I'll just have to wait till summer and see, but it just makes me leery with the readings still so low with highway use and a warm engine.
I don't want to make a quick judgement and spend money that doesn't need to be spent, or not spend money that can save a pocket full of cash in diesel, so any other advice is appreciated!
Mine died at 224,000, and I babied it until 230,000.
For the most part theyall die around 200xxx-250xxx.
The journals first, then the drag causes the turbine to get all chewed up... Or so I have been told.
In any case, thats what happened to mine.
If you have that many miles, its a good bet that your turbo is bad, and Injectors will be soon to follow.
These are all simple tasks, almost any backyard mechanic can change them if he is careful not to hydrolock the motor.
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Joys of buying a high mile used truck!
When it gets replaced, I'll likely do the work. I'm by no means a mechanic, but fairly handy at that. I really just need to be sure it's the turbo that I need and I'll be on my way. I might just end up doing what you've done and baby it for a while, or at least till summer, and see if I see the economy increase some claim.
When it gets replaced, I'll likely do the work. I'm by no means a mechanic, but fairly handy at that. I really just need to be sure it's the turbo that I need and I'll be on my way. I might just end up doing what you've done and baby it for a while, or at least till summer, and see if I see the economy increase some claim.
Haha, its Low mileage for a 7.3, they run for a long long time. Theres a thread on here where people post thier mileage, and repairs. Oldstroke has one with 700xxx+
Your turbo may not be the problem, but I gurantee it wont be a waste of money.
Im still learning the late model 7.3's, I knew my OBS 7.3 really well, but they run different. They feel more mechanical, and are way easier to diagnose. I still have an International 4700 T444E, runs like a champ, all original.
Sent from my Verizon 4G-LTE smart phone using Autoguide
__________________
Personal Trucks:
Red 2003 F250 XLT Crew Cab 6.0L Powerstroke FX4 162,000miles,
BONE STOCK
Black 2003 Excursion Limited 6.0L Powerstroke 178,000miles.
4" Magnaflow Turbo Back, Warn Manual Locking Hubs
Haha, its Low mileage for a 7.3, they run for a long long time. Theres a thread on here where people post thier mileage, and repairs. Oldstroke has one with 700xxx+
Your turbo may not be the problem, but I gurantee it wont be a waste of money.
Im still learning the late model 7.3's, I knew my OBS 7.3 really well, but they run different. They feel more mechanical, and are way easier to diagnose. I still have an International 4700 T444E, runs like a champ, all original.
Sent from my Verizon 4G-LTE smart phone using Autoguide
I hear you there, I wasn't afraid of 215. I expect this thing to last over 500,000. It's just getting to where the first wave of big repairs come, I'll expect to be doing similar things 12 years from now, as I am currently. More buying anything used comes with plenty of fun surprises.
I've been researching the turbo's online. I see some aftermarket options specifically designed for the 7.3. I read that you can get up to 36PSI boost with it, vs the 16-20, I've seen mentioned here. Besides it costing over twice as much as what you mentioned, is there any reason I should going towards what you said?
I hear you there, I wasn't afraid of 215. I expect this thing to last over 500,000. It's just getting to where the first wave of big repairs come, I'll expect to be doing similar things 12 years from now, as I am currently. More buying anything used comes with plenty of fun surprises.
I've been researching the turbo's online. I see some aftermarket options specifically designed for the 7.3. I read that you can get up to 36PSI boost with it, vs the 16-20, I've seen mentioned here. Besides it costing over twice as much as what you mentioned, is there any reason I should going towards what you said?
I do not think you need a turbo. Your boost numbers are a bit low but that could be due to a leak.
You also want to check the amount of play you have on the impellers. you probably just have a boost leak somewhere. You need to build a boost leak detector and test for leaks.
I am not sure what turbo you are looking at, but those numbers are with a good chip. Typical boost on a stock truck is anywhere from 15-18ish lbs. When you run a chip is when you start to gain more boost. There are people running stock turbos pushing near 30lbs.
I would honestly check all the everything you can to ensure things are good with the truck. start with the cheaper things too. As I mentioned previously, you may need to replace some sensors. Especially if they have never been replaced and I would start with the ebpv and tube.
I think a memeber recently posted a video on building a boost leak detector. Thats another priority, to find your leaks.
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03 F350 7.3L Auto CC LB Dually 410's (LS Rear)
I do not think you need a turbo. Your boost numbers are a bit low but that could be due to a leak.
You also want to check the amount of play you have on the impellers. you probably just have a boost leak somewhere. You need to build a boost leak detector and test for leaks.
I am not sure what turbo you are looking at, but those numbers are with a good chip. Typical boost on a stock truck is anywhere from 15-18ish lbs. When you run a chip is when you start to gain more boost. There are people running stock turbos pushing near 30lbs.
I would honestly check all the everything you can to ensure things are good with the truck. start with the cheaper things too. As I mentioned previously, you may need to replace some sensors. Especially if they have never been replaced and I would start with the ebpv and tube.
I think a memeber recently posted a video on building a boost leak detector. Thats another priority, to find your leaks.
That makes sense. I was thinking it would be a different compression ratio creating the more PSI. If they are going to create similar PSI, I guess it wouldn't matter. This is the turbo I saw online: BD-Power 7.3L Turbo Thruster Kit 1047510
How do I go about checking the EBPV/sensor? How do I go about checking the other sensors mentioned as well? I'll look around, but if you could post the link about the leak detector, it'd be greatly appreciated!
Buy a plumbing sleeve from Home Depot. Get a 3" cap as well. You'll need two hose clamps which should come with the sleeve. Borrow a air coupling out of one of your other air tools, or buy one. You don't need the gauge as you can use the one on your air compressor. Drill and tap for the air coupling.
Take off your cold air intake hose from the side of the turbo. Install this contraption and crank it up to about 15 psi. Pull your oil fill cap. Go looking for air leaks. You are going to hear some air escaping from the exhaust pipe and some through the oil fill. That's just blow by and open valves. What you are looking for are leaks from boots, plenums, holes worn through CAC pipes, intercooler, MAP hose, etc.
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2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
Buy a plumbing sleeve from Home Depot. Get a 3" cap as well. You'll need two hose clamps which should come with the sleeve. Borrow a air coupling out of one of your other air tools, or buy one. You don't need the gauge as you can use the one on your air compressor. Drill and tap for the air coupling.
Take off your cold air intake hose from the side of the turbo. Install this contraption and crank it up to about 15 psi. Pull your oil fill cap. Go looking for air leaks. You are going to hear some air escaping from the exhaust pipe and some through the oil fill. That's just blow by and open valves. What you are looking for are leaks from boots, plenums, holes worn through CAC pipes, intercooler, MAP hose, etc.
Wow, never would have thought of that. Very cool device. Now that I see it, makes perfect sense. How much air would something like that take? I've got a compressor, but it's quite a dinky little thing, little 3 gallon tank. I've had a bigger compressor on the want list for about 10 years now..
Let me see if I can find the video; its from Trey. I cannot remember his user name.
As far as cleaning the back pressure sensor and tube, there are many ways to do it. I just sprayed brake cleaner in the sensor to get it clean. It really depends on how bad it is. You also need some kind of long brush to clean the tube. Something like the brushes used on fish tanks.
Trey also has a good video on cleaning the sensor/tube.
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F250 XLT Crew Cab 6.0L Powerstroke FX4 162,000miles,
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