7.3 mods, Best bag for the buck? - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 10-24-2007, 07:18 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Re: 7.3 mods, Best bag for the buck?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pappy19</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1) guages $350
2) ATS ported turbo housing $400
3) Muffler delete(pick one) $150
4) AFE Stage 2 $250
5) Additional Tranny cooler $100
6) Transgo shift kit, BTS valve body $200
7) DP tuner with 50tow and 80 Econo tunes $200
8) CCV mod and Zoodad mod $50 or less

Other than the CCV and Zoodad mod, these should be done in the order presented.

After these are completed, the ITP tank and fuel mods are fantastic.</div></div>
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Old 10-26-2007, 07:39 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Re: 7.3 mods, Best bag for the buck?

Thank you very much!
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Old 10-26-2007, 10:41 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Re: 7.3 mods, Best bag for the buck?

Listen to Smokey and the horse haulin' forensic. the Ford AIS works just great with my chip and BTM exhaust combo
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Old 10-26-2007, 01:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Re: 7.3 mods, Best bag for the buck?

I love my AIS, factory look and approved, great used oil analysis shows great filtration, 35k on this filter so far, and seems ok with the chip. I trust it to protect.
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Old 10-26-2007, 01:47 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Re: 7.3 mods, Best bag for the buck?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ProGSX</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello,
I just picked up a 01 Excursion with a 7.3. What are the best mods for power and mileage for these without spending a fortune? This is my first 7.3 powerstroke. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! BTW, the truck has 84,000 on it. Thanks in advance.
Jeff </div></div>How much is your time worth? The very best mod to increase the miles you can travel is free if you do not count the elbow grease. Drop the tank and "poon" the vent line in the tank nearly flush with the top of the tank. Originally described by member Maroon Harpoon, this mod is free and allows you to put 44 gallons in a "38 gallon tank". You will fill up at full speed to within 2 gallons of the lip of the fill tube and then trickle in the remainder to reach a full tank. At 15mpg, those extra gallons are good for 90 miles a tankful in cruising range. Original thread by Maroon Harpoon.
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Old 10-27-2007, 02:13 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Re: 7.3 mods, Best bag for the buck?

I know guys that are making a tad over 400hp with the AIS. Others have tried to make over that and had issues until it was removed. But for most folks out there who are looking for a little boost in economy and superior filtration.

It is the best damn filter on the market, period.....Plus at $200, you cant go wrong.

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Old 10-27-2007, 10:47 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Re: 7.3 mods, Best bag for the buck?

One addition that I place a lot of value on is the Fumoto valve. With it oil changes no longer necessarily mean oil baths for the mechanic.
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Old 10-27-2007, 11:10 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Re: 7.3 mods, Best bag for the buck?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Darth_Surplus</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One addition that I place a lot of value on is the Fumoto valve. With it oil changes no longer necessarily mean oil baths for the mechanic.</div></div>

If you wish to consider the Fumoto a "mod", then I concur, it is a good one, but doesn't do anything for performance.
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Old 11-03-2007, 09:27 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Re: 7.3 mods, Best bag for the buck?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SmokeyWren</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mileage? Don't kid yourself. When you make it run better, it feels so good that you automagically mash harder on the go pedal. So even though it's more efficient, your fuel mileage won't improve - unless you have the willpower to stay out of the go pedal. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif[/img]

When you say "power", I'll assume you mean daily driver and towing machine - not a race-winning race car. So you need almost exactly what I have:

You need four things, and one of those four thing is a performance tune (computer program). But DO NOT install a performance tune until after you have gauges.

"Gauges" means three new gauges. Pyrometer for monitoring and controlling exhaust gas temp (EGT). Turbo boost (manifold pressure) gauge for monitoring and controlling boost. And a good tranny temp gauge to protect your expensive automagic tranny. I prefer ISSPRO Enhanced Visibility (EV) gauges. You can buy everything you need for $300 from http://www.dieselmanor.com

After gauges, you can add the other three mods in any order, but here's how I'd do it:

Exhaust. Your factory muffler is a huge drag on performance. Replace it with a performance muffler, or with an entire custom exhaust system. As a minimum, replace the muffler with a Walker BigTruckMuffler (BTM) #21470. Better yet is to replace the entire exhaust system with a 4" mandrel-bent exhaust system that includes a 4" performance straight-thru muffler.

Intake. Least expensive is a Tymar or Tymar clone for around $100. It works good, but adds a lot of racket (NVH) coming from under the hood. Better and quieter is a Ford Extreme Duty Air Intake System (AIS) for around $200. And if you want the best and can afford it, then go for the aFe Stage II with ProGuard7 filter for around $500.

Last is the go-fast performance tune. Right now the big name in 7.3L tuning is Jody at http://www.dp-tuner.com - he has several ways to install a new tune in your PCM (computer that controls the engine and tranny).

One way is to replace the PCM with a new one that includes the one tune you can't live without. Probably his 80-E (adds 80 HP and improves fuel economy).

Another way is with a programmer/tuner that includes 3 or four of your favorite DP-Tuner tunes. I have one with 80-Economy, 60-Tow and stock, plus another tune I don't use. 80E is for unloaded, 60-Tow is for towing, and stock is in case I have to take the truck into a Ford dealer.

Another way is the "chip" that has room for several different tunes. If three tunes may not be enough for you, or if you want change-tunes-on-the-fly capability, then that's the one you want.

Sources:

Walker BTM muffler: Can be ordered from any NAPA store or Advance Auto Parts store under part number 21470. Available on the internet from several sources, including http://www.summitracing.com under part number 21470. You'll also need two 3.5" muffler clamps available at most big-truck parts stores but not at normal auto parts stores. I had mine installed by my local Midas Muffler Shop, and they charged me less than $50 plus the clamps and muffler I provided.

Another source for the BTM and clamps that is a former sponsor of TheDieselStop is
http://www.blackclouddiesel.com/Ford/walkermuffler.htm - They're only a coupla bucks higher than Summit, but they have the clamps so that will save you a trip to the truck parts store.

Exhaust system: http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com - Mark Craig has been an avid supporter of TheDieselStop since Day One, and he has what you need in the way of exhaust systems, as well as aFe intake. And he now handles ISSPRO gauges too, and he'll probably meet DieselManor's price if you lean on him. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

Intake:

Ford AIS = http://www.powerstrokeshop.com

aFe Stage II with ProGuard7 filter = http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com

Tymar clone = http://www.spdiesel.com - the button for the SP-Diesel Intake is busted right now, so call Sean and chew him out. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

Genuine Tymar Intake = http://www.tymarperformance.com/ - Dale is a little slow in completing his website, but the phone number and e-mail addy are there, so contact him and chew him out too. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img] </div></div>


That's a great post- in fact it's what I've done over the last 3 years. Also a wicked wheel and a BTS tranny when the stocker blows out.

Now how about a list like the above, but going to the next level with bang-for-the buck. Every time I post a question about "What's next?" after the stuff in my signature, I get a list of: turbo ($2k), injectors ($2.5k), dual HPOP ($2k)- all at the same time. Well I don't have $6,500 for 100 more HP- trying to keep under the magic 400 RWHP with my PMR's. These stock duramaxes and dodges are getting tough to beat. At least I can pull ahead of a stock '08 6.4L truck...
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Old 11-03-2007, 10:25 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Re: 7.3 mods, Best bag for the buck?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: zimm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's a great post- </div></div>

I thought so too. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Now how about a list like the above, but going to the next level with bang-for-the buck. </div></div>

Not my area of expertise, so you'll have to wait for someone that's "been there, done that, got the T-shirt". I'd suggest contacting David Lott at Diesel Innovations in Houston and requesting his input. He has definitely been there, done that.

David did respond to one member some time ago that to build a race-winning 7.3L engine would cost a minimum of $10,000, plus over $4,000 for a tranny that can handle the power, and not including any beefing up required to the drive train such as driveshafts, U-joints, rear axle, etc. That includes "big oil", turbo, injectors, intercooler, tuning, head gasket and bolts, and maybe rods if you have PMRs. Plus replace your "performance" intake and exhaust systems with "high performance" components.

If I had to guess an order to do it one piece at a time, I'd probably put big oil first (i.e., high pressure oil pump mods), along with "big air" and "big exhaust". Next would be the huge intercooler (charge air cooler) as part of the big air intake system. Then head gaskets and head bolts that can stand more boost, then a ball-bearing turbo that can produce and live with more boost. Then injectors to match the other mods. Then a tune that would use the increased potential. If that tune is around 400 HP, then that may be most of what you'll need. The next level after that would require rods and maybe valves - i.e., a "built" engine.

But again, those are educated guesses, based on reading posts on TheDieselStop for several years. If you want the straight scoop, then get David or his peers at other race-winning shops to post their two cents. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif[/img]
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:29 AM   #26 (permalink)
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To bump the thread from the dead... Guess I was in no hurry lol. Only started this thread in 2007...

I did the mods as listed just recently and the truck is AMAZINGLY different! Mileage, power and drivabilty are awesome.

I did a calculated mileage test this morning on my way into work to see how good I could do. Went from at best at 17.5 to 26 mpg! The truck needs just about no pedal to move it around. I love it!

Thanks to all who helped!
Jeff
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:42 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Are you saying that you are getting 26 MPG?! At what speeds and roads? That is awesome, didn't know that this was possible. How much money did you invest to get to this point?
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:35 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ProGSX View Post
To bump the thread from the dead... Guess I was in no hurry lol. Only started this thread in 2007...

I did the mods as listed just recently and the truck is AMAZINGLY different! Mileage, power and drivabilty are awesome.

I did a calculated mileage test this morning on my way into work to see how good I could do. Went from at best at 17.5 to 26 mpg! The truck needs just about no pedal to move it around. I love it!

Thanks to all who helped!
Jeff
Did you chip it as well? If you chipped it, then your overhead console that tells the MPG is now called the "Lie-O-Meter." You won't get 26 mpg on an Excursion unless you have some serious aerodynamic enhancements, and wicked skills of hyper-miling. You could certainly get into the 20's, no doubt. But 26...the guru here on TDS has gotten a best of something like 28, and he is driving a single cab, short bed, 2wd, manual tranny, custom air dam, custom bed slope, 3.08 rear diff gears, etc. etc. etc.

Not to burst your bubble. But calculate it by hand, and over several tanks.

If I'm wrong...well CONGRATS!

Congrats anyway...glad to hear your truck is running great. When you get PMS (Powerstroke Modification Syndrome), it's a bad addiction. But it is why so many people love these 7.3L trucks!
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1) 2000 Excursion PSD Ltd, 4x2, Dark Green, DP Tuner, Autometer gauges, AIS w/ Zoodad, ITP HP/X, Walker BTM, Dahl 100, Coolant Filter, 203 Tstat, Billet Tstat Housing, AIH delete, Hellwig swaybar, KYB shocks, Amsoil Bypass / fluids, Hutch Mod
2) 2000 Excursion PSD Ltd, 4x2, Chestnut, BTS Tranny, DI 4-Way Chip, AutoMeter CF gauges, AFE intake, Magnaflow 4" turbo back, Wicked Wheel, HP/X Crossover, KYB shocks, Hellwig rear swaybar
3) 99.5 F250 CC SB PSD XLT, 4x2, 3.73 LS, aFe Stage 1 intake, Zoodad mod, 4" turbo back exhaust, Amsoil

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Old 07-21-2011, 04:46 PM   #29 (permalink)
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OK. What I am saying is I have done this same test over and over. Reset the mileage on the over head and the best stock was 17.5 through out the years. Now with the mods complete I did the same test with the mods and it was 26mpg. I will do a pump to pump test to see where its truely at. But I can see the fuel gauge needles not moving... Definitely a huge difference, converter locks right up and takes no pedal to move the truck anymore...
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:22 AM   #30 (permalink)
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After the above mentioned mods, you'll need to have a floor jack, compressor and impact wrench.

You'll find that you need to rotate your tires at every oil change, as you'll find yourself burning rubber at every traffic light you leave. No kiddin'.
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