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'99 F350SD XL CC LB Fx4 7.3L ZF6 Mod Ideas

36K views 182 replies 11 participants last post by  FireKracker50 
#1 ·
99 F350SD XL CC Long Bed Fx4
  • 7.3L Powerstroke
  • ZF6
  • 116K miles
  • Manual Lockout 4WD
  • 10" Superlift
  • 38X13.5X20 Toyos
  • 4.56 gears
  • AirAid Intake
  • 5" MBRP Exhaust

I bought it in bloomington, IN and I live in Louisville, KY about a 2.5hr drive.
About 30min after i left the place i purchased the truck on flat level ground running about 50mph in 5th gear all 4 wheels locked up, the engine died, and the truck started spinning 360s on the wet hwy before marring down in the mud in a ditch on the side of the hwy. The truck would start but not back up out of the ditch, the truck would die trying to release the clutch in reverse.
Dropped it off at the nearest truck service center, HK Truck Service Columbus, IN.
They said the front hubs were not locked, but the transfer case linkage was disconnected and it was in 4WD. They pulled the inspection plates off the tranny and said it was dry on fluid. The first few gears are discolored and they suspected 5th gear was destroyed.
The wheel that hit the ditch wall broke the sway bar link, and the rear drive shaft carrier bearing is worn out.
I am going to have them fully inspect the truck before going any further.
Any advice on a good place go get a new rebuilt tranny would be appreciated, assuming thats all thats wrong.

If anyone knows an easy way to lower the truck a couple inches i would be interested to know. I really didnt want a 10" lift, 6-8" is all i wanted. I would like 35" tires as well but i am afraid if i put 35s on it i will be turning too many RPMs on the highway with the 4.56 gears.

Im not trying to spend very much money but i would like to get the best mileage i could out of it as it will be my daily driver as well as what i tow my bassboat all over with. With that being said..
After i get the truck up and running again what are something you all would recommend doing to it. I think a gauge set would be a good idea. What gauges do you recommend? Or would i be better to get a programmer that displays gauges on the screen?

What programmer would be my best option to get the most out of the intake and exhaust mods, give me good power, and keep the fuel mileage to a good level for daily driving?

What other mods would net me Fuel Econ improvements or power improvements without hurting fuel econ too bad.
Some things i am thinking but dont know much about:
  • Waste Gate?
  • Any cheep turbo improvements?
  • Open to any other suggestions, this is my first 7.3L
 
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#2 ·
Dp, php, gear head, and powerstroke are good. A billet wheel from riffraff, ww2, bd billet wheel are all good
 
#3 ·
Which one of those are going to b the vest tune for what im wanting? I was thinking about buying a SCT tuner because it will do my powerstroke and triton.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I have contacted a few of the top tuners out there and enlisted their advice. Based on what they each have to say i'll try to work with them to determine what will be the best fit for me.

Have any of you guys changed out your wastegate?
Banks Power | 99-03 Ford - 7.3L Power Stroke>>BigHead® Wastegate Actuator
BD Turbo Waste Gate Actuator 99.5-03 7.3L Ford Powerstroke 1047170

What wheel is the common consensus as being the best out of the top3? Right Now they are all within about $10 of $200. So price isnt the issue. Strictly interested in which is the best.
 
#5 ·
I have done business with Midwest transmission and got darn
good service. Granted it was just for parts and a short shifter for a zf6. Everything was quality built. I cant speak for their reman units. Hopefully I never need a reman from anyone. They are expensive. I would imagine the clutch is toast from the lockup. No way I would trust it after that kind of a shock. I would take a good look at everything in the driveline for damage. Diesels have a lot of torque and torque bends,twists,cracks and destroys anything that binds up. Good Luck and keep us informed on your progress.
 
#6 ·
dieselsite sells the best replacement actuator.

although I cant see spending a lot on a wastegate. just tighten your stock a few turns tighter and pull the red line off and plug it.

best is going to be a matter of opinion.

i have direct experience with the bd wheel and riffraffs wheel. the riffraff wheel has more top end than the bd wheel, but i feel the bd wheel spools a little faster and its much quieter.
 
#7 ·
I am looking for low end power, not concerned with top end at all. Truck will prob never see more than 80-90mph. Not racing just towing and daily driver.
 
#8 ·
Your best bet is get rid of that 10'' lift and put it back to stock.:thumbsup:
You won't have good Fuel Econ with big tyres and lift.

Gauges : a programmer that displays gauges on the screen will cost to much so stick to separate gauges , boost, EGT, fuel pressure etc, or you can get apps to use on your phone or tablet cheap you will need a OBD11 connector like this.
 

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#9 ·
get the bd wheel or billet x wheel from xdp. if you use diesel10 when buying the billet wheel from xdp its only 160 bucks.

bd/billet x-wheel have quicker spool up, more power, lower egts etc etc
 
#10 ·
I was not aware of the wifi module. I need to find out what exactly it transmits. I can write my own app to display as i desire if i can find some details on that wifi adapter.

blue99stroker - Are you saying the billet-x wheel is actually better than the WW2? Almost everywhere i read seems like the WW2 is most prefered, but i am not familiar with the billet-x wheel.
 
#11 ·
#12 ·
thanks for the link
 
#13 ·
Btw after checking my date my truck was manufactured end of year 98. So it is an early 99 model. With that being said what other mods are recommended.
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
Being an early 99, you already have a wicked wheel, basically the wicked wheel I, mine doesn't surge or have any problems at 30psi. You are limited if you ever want to change your turbo, you can only get the D66, multiple companies make it. If you wanted the later year turbos, you have to convert over all your pipes and its pretty costly or you can go with a t4 mount but then your looking at big $$$. Early 99s have a couple things different so before you order any parts such as brakes or hubs, that you get the correct part.
 
#16 ·
ya the wicked wheel sucks performance wise, compared to the newer billet wheels. i know from experience. the ww1 has no top end. My egts dropped 150 degrees just with the swap of a wheel. i wont ever put a ww1 on another truck now that there is better options.
 
#17 ·
So do you all recommend not changing to compressor wheel at all or r u recommending I change it but to something else. If so what wheel do I need to be looking at
 
#19 ·
What blue99 is saying is the WW1 sucks but the WW2 and RR 's billet wheel are good improvements.:thumbsup:
 
#18 ·
I would recommend riffraffs billet wheel.

Or the bd billet wheel it's quieter than the riffraff wheel
 
#20 ·
Dave to the rescue :thumbsup:
 
#21 ·
Ok I think i will stick with the WW2 seems like pretty common consensus its a good wheel.
I like to hear the turbo but obviously performance means the most and from everything i read pretty much everyone agrees the WW2 has good performance.
 
#22 ·
So as of right now. I just ordered a rebuilt tranny from a place in indianapolis Indiana because i can drive there to pick it up and drop off my core.
It was $1795 for the tranny and $250 for 3yrs unlimited miles warranty.

I am also going to get a Autolite 3-gauge pillar.

New carrier bearing and support bracket. I need to drop it lower than the existing one.
I have the CC long bed so i think that 172"wheelbase. From what i read 1/4" for every 1" lift in the rear. Is that true for 172" wheelbase? I was told it was the superlift kit which is 10" in front and 9" in rear. However looking at it there have been larger leaf shackles added to the front. I think its more like 12" in the front and 9" in rear. Looks odd to me. I dont like the stance. I want the factory shackles back so it sets level. Might look at junkyards for those. Anyways, does about 2.5" drop on the support bracket sound about right?

After all that is done next on the list is either Hydra Chip or Swamps 385RWHP Kit with a hydra with his custom tunes.
Some people are saying i can accomplish the same thing with less money going with someone else. Im up for any suggestions. Havent made up my mind on this yet.

I am also looking for newer interior with the flip up rear seat with the tray that folds out to lay flat. I want to made the rear into a bed for traveling. All the seats are in perfect condition so i hate to get rid of them but i really want the different rear seat.

And I am still on the lookout for a good set of projector headlights. But i cant seem to find anything thats of decent quality. I want to spend as little as possible on this modification.
 
#23 ·
I seen on another thread that Caryt at Home has good true projector headlights , send an email .
 
#24 ·
I emailed them we will see what they offer.
 
#25 ·
175/0's will be putting a hurt on the stock turbo.

I wouldn't go bigger than 160/0 if you want the stock turbo to last.

you would be seeing probably 40 psi of boost with a ww2 and 175/0's on a hard run.
you can pick up a van turbo and it will handle 175/0's just fine though
 
#26 ·
Even if I put a turbo master wastegate and set it around 30psi u still think it will cause my stock turbo to go out?
 
#28 ·
Yes if you're using stock turbo at 30 psi it won't last long.
 
#27 ·
#29 ·
I can turn the wastegate down to whatever i need it to be. Maybe one day i'll add a turbo
 
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