Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L EngineUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I have a used AIS that came in my truck i dident know what it was and couldent find a filter for it so I took it out, and got a FIPKI K&N system cheap but now everyone says K&n's suck so should I put a tymar on or put the AIS back on??? I was thinking of mounting a tymar to the K&N tube and useing the head sheild that came with it because my plow relay and head light isolation modual is bolted to it. what do you guys think
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2002 F-250 3.5" leveling kit, 305-70-16 Procomp AT's,Eagle alloys 16" rims,Autometer procomp trans boost pyro gages, AIS, Coolat filter ELC, TS 6POS chip, Banks Billet torque converter, Transgo tugger shift kit, galaxy CB pumpin 20watts, Sirius radio,Kenwood cd player, kenwood door speakers, Infinity tweeters, 500 watt Pioneer amp, 10" Pioneer sub, Panelite LEDs, Custom back rack with LED lights, Bores guide poles, SHO-ME led warning lights, 4" exhaust, Grandrock 5" stack kit with bullhauler stacks,MBRP y pipe cover, 9Ft Fisher plow. Timbren SES
1995 30ft 14K Gooseneck flatbed.
10K winch
All LED lights
I guess it depends on what your looking for. Tymar is going to give you better flow but AIS is going to give you unmatched filtration. If your worried about stuff getting into your turbo, get the AIS plus it will last a LONG time, like 60K miles if I am remembering correctly. BUT, if your into performance, then the Tymar may suit you better. I prefer the insurance of the AIS with my engine and plan on keeping it a long long time.
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2000 F-250SD XLT 7.3 Auto CrewCab Long Bed, Harvest Gold, RoadQuest Boards, Superchips 1705, Ford AIS Filter System w/fender sleeve, Extreme Liner, Ranger RCI-2970
1971 Boss 351 Mustang Fastback 330HP 4spd. Wimbledon White
1993 McKee Craft Offshore Fisherman/120 Evinrude
powerstrokeshop.com has AIS filters among other vendors who are on these forums. It's a good filter.
As I understand it, replacing the factory filter element with a K&N is a mistake. The factory box apparently doesn't seal very well. Other trouble with K&N is it's got lotsa holes. If not oiled correctly it flows air because it has tons of large holes in it which also let dirt through. There are better brands & technology.
I'm using a tymar because it's cheap to setup and offers good filtration.
Nothing will out flow or out clean a Donaldson hydroscop filter period.
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I specialize in performance and suspension mods.
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Nothing will out flow or out clean a Donaldson hydroscop filter period.
A search on the Donaldson website returns no hits on "hydroscop" or "hydroscope".
But Donaldson PowerCore filter media was developed for the U.S. military for use in the deserts of the Middle East, and later incorporated into the Ford Severe Duty AIS filter system. Nothing outcleans the PowerCore filter media, and very few competitive media even comes close - including other products sold by Donaldson.
So if you meant the Donaldson PowerCore filter media, then I'll agree with you. But if you meant an ordinary Donaldson Tymar-type open filter, then no, you're wrong. And Donaldson makes those filters with all sorts of different filter media, from fiberglass mats to acrilic mats to foam rubber. So be sure your Tymar-type filter includes the PowerCore filter media and not some lesser media material.
The first generation of PowerCore technology is now being replaced with PowerCore G2 (generation 2?). So if you want the best in a Tymar-type filter, be sure it has PowerCore G2 filter media. http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/s...ary/059806.pdf
The K & N FIBK the OP has is different than the K & N drop in so despised on these forums. IMO, the FIPK tube with the heatshield and the Donaldson (aka #6637) filter combination is hard to beat for the money.
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2001 F350 CC SWB 6spd WHITE 8.5" on 37's. Currently getting a complete makeover......stay tuned.
I have a used AIS that came in my truck i dident know what it was and couldent find a filter for it so I took it out, and got a FIPKI K&N system cheap but now everyone says K&n's suck so should I put a tymar on or put the AIS back on??? I was thinking of mounting a tymar to the K&N tube and useing the head sheild that came with it because my plow relay and head light isolation modual is bolted to it. what do you guys think
If you have the AIS, I'd vote to put it back in, it's a very good system.
AIS and ZOODAD / FENDER SLEEVE MOD... what I drive and what I perfer. As yourself what is your daily driving conditions like? Do you intend to keep the truck for some time? or Sell in a couple of years?
I drive on construction sites in the Phoenix area. Dirt, grime, sand and dust all a major factor..... Opted for the AIS with some modifications to flow more air. ...My 2 cents
Just put on the Tymar Performance intake today,replacing the stock set up. I can tell a diff in how fast it accelerates. Cant really tell a diff in noise,which goes against what I have read about it. Very easy install, 30-45 mins tops.
On edit: The wife and I just went and drove it. She said it was louder,I guess it is,I had the windows down the first time I drove it. I dont care,I like it!!
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Alan Brown
2001 F250 Crew Cab 4x4 Short Bed 7.3 PSD 4R100 Auto Meter GS series gauges (pyro and trans)
Tymar Performance intake/ muffler delete/ 60hp chip
2001 KZ Sportsman 5th wheel 25 foot long 10,000 GVWR Reese 16K Kiwk Slide
2001 RM250,2006 KTM450SX,2004 KX85 double towed on a 5x8 3 rail trailer
AIS and ZOODAD / FENDER SLEEVE MOD... what I drive and what I perfer. As yourself what is your daily driving conditions like? Do you intend to keep the truck for some time? or Sell in a couple of years?
I drive on construction sites in the Phoenix area. Dirt, grime, sand and dust all a major factor..... Opted for the AIS with some modifications to flow more air. ...My 2 cents
extremely dusty conditons I live on a 1/2 mile dirt road onto are property thats a campground we own so theres constantly somone in front of you or passing by in the other direction kicking up dust....I want to keep the truck for a long time I oil the crap out of the K&N...but its not worth the chance.
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2002 F-250 3.5" leveling kit, 305-70-16 Procomp AT's,Eagle alloys 16" rims,Autometer procomp trans boost pyro gages, AIS, Coolat filter ELC, TS 6POS chip, Banks Billet torque converter, Transgo tugger shift kit, galaxy CB pumpin 20watts, Sirius radio,Kenwood cd player, kenwood door speakers, Infinity tweeters, 500 watt Pioneer amp, 10" Pioneer sub, Panelite LEDs, Custom back rack with LED lights, Bores guide poles, SHO-ME led warning lights, 4" exhaust, Grandrock 5" stack kit with bullhauler stacks,MBRP y pipe cover, 9Ft Fisher plow. Timbren SES
1995 30ft 14K Gooseneck flatbed.
10K winch
All LED lights
Sorry for the late response. caryt asked me to comment on a few threads, this being one of them, a while ago and I’m just getting around to it. However, on a new computer (yea!… sort of… depends if you like Vista).
Anyway, I don’t monitor all the different forums anymore, but am always willing to comment if anyone would like to link me to the conversation you are having. Since I am a bit late, I’ll respond to the posts as they appear and hopefully it won’t be too confusing.
quote: “have a used AIS…couldn’t find a filter for it…got a FIPKI K&N system cheap…should I put a tymar on or put the AIS back on??? I was thinking of mounting a tymar to the K&N tube…what do you guys think”
The K&N element should probably be avoided in turbo-charged applications. The initial filtration efficiency is not high enough to protect the compressor impeller.
The phrase “mounting a tymar” sounds kind of like Tymar is a filter. The filter we use is a Donaldson B085011 and Tymar is a company name. Tymar Performance makes all sorts of items, one of them being the open element intake kits.
That said, the element we use would not fit on the end of a K&N FIPK system. I guess you could technically modify things to get it in, but you wouldn’t have minimal radial clearance around the filter, which should be considered very important to providing low restriction air to the turbo. Without supplying minimal radial clearance, you won’t get the positive benefits the open element system should create.
The AIS will provide excellent filtration efficiency, but will not improve overall restriction or allow much additional air flow in the configuration that Ford uses. The Tymar Intake will provide excellent filtration efficiency as well as decrease restriction to the turbo and add significant air flow.
quote: “Tymar is going to give you better flow but AIS is going to give you unmatched filtration…the AIS plus it will last a LONG time, like 60K miles…”
Although the AIS will give better filtration efficiency, you are only talking about 1/10 of a percent over the filter Tymar Performance Intakes use at initial filtration efficiencies. Not enough of a difference to really differentiate between the two.
For the longevity, you have to start talking about restriction ranges in both stock and aftermarket applications and how dirt will affect them. AIS has a larger capacity, but not across the restriction ranges once installed on the truck. Because of the configuration you are not lowering restriction significant over stock levels, but you are receiving better filtration compared to the stock intake.
The Tymar Intake will allow lower restriction levels and lasts approximately 15K miles in a restriction range LOWER than stock. If you want to go with longevity of filter, you can continue using the same filter and will simply not experience the positive benefits of lower than stock restriction levels.
We supplied the intake systems for Granite Construction and used them as a severe duty use test. They were rebuilding Power Stroke engines at approximately 60K miles because of the fine silt in the mining beds. After changing to our system they were using the same filters with 28K mile change out intervals and only experiencing 32”h2o of restriction (yellow on your stock restriction gauges) and they eliminated the necessity of engine rebuilds and were selling the used trucks with over 180K miles on them.
quote: “I'm using a tymar because it's cheap to setup and offers good filtration.”
Although I agree with you, your listed intake is a DIY 6637, which is neither a Tymar nor a recommended system by us. The WIX/NAPA 6637 is not a hydrophobic (water resistant) element and using it as an open element should be avoided. There are other concerns such as providing minimal radial clearance, isolating engine vibration, positioning away from rain drip channel, etc. But, I just wanted to draw a clear difference between copies, DIY efforts, and our product.
quote: “…be sure your Tymar-type filter includes the PowerCore filter media and not some lesser media material.”
Although the PowerCore ® media is far superior to most other media, there is not a PowerCore media filter available for use as an open element. They are inserts for intake boxes and are not configure for use as filter alone applications.
The filter media is not the main attraction, but the filter configuration. It is NOT true that you cannot get the same filtration efficiencies or flow rates from other Donaldson products. It will just simply have to be larger. The PowerCore configuration allows for compact applications that have flow rates and filtration efficiencies of filters much larger. So it is the compactness of the element and not that the media processes some magical qualities.
quote: “IMO, the FIPK tube with the heat shield and the Donaldson (aka #6637) filter combination is hard to beat for the money.”
I would probably respectfully disagree. The problem is the thickness of the stacked gauze media will not allow for a high pleat count and severely restricts the available surface area. A typical RD-1460 that is used in a FIPK system only has about 44 pleats. The Donaldson we use is not only a larger filter overall, but the thinner media allows for 202 pleats, leaving us over 5 times the surface area to pull from. This is why we can outflow and out filter a re-usable element as long as minimum radial clearance is maintained.
The problem with heat shields and routing air through intake boxes is that whenever you direct air flow, you increase restriction. Low restriction is the goal, so using a filter that has the ability to flow large masses of air and then enclosing it in a box yields very poor results. Heat shields do literally nothing. Air flow under the hood is dynamic and not static. It is moving all the time. Hot air will move right around a heat shield at the same temperature and be ingested and the only thing you have caused is turbulence.
Aside from impeding minimal radial clearance and isolation of engine vibration, a serious cause for concern is placing the filter, especially a 6637 element, under a rain drip channel for the hood. Beyond the ambient moisture that will cause restriction as it is absorbed into the non-hydrophobic media, you will be directing water towards the filter anytime the rain drip channel flows more rain than it can hold or spills over the retainer during left turns.
I’ll try to check back in and address further comments in the days to come and can hopefully shed some light on why we do what we do using the configuration we did.
Peace to all, enjoy those rigs!
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Thanks for reading, Dale Pics 1995 F350 - To much stuff to list,
more money spent than I want to admit.
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