Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L EngineUpgrading and adding aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I recently purchased this truck with autometer guages. The boost guage seems to work properly, but the trans temp and egt/pyrometer guages are unresponsive. I checked the connections at the the mounting locations and
everything looks good. Any ideas? Are there inline fuses or something that could be causing this?
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2000 f350 quadcab shortbed with banks 4", garrett turbo, 6" fabtech lift, airlift 5000, Hytek Trans pan and rear diff cover, dual optimas, PIAA lights all around, Warn 12k's up front and rear, Reunel bumpers, axe, chainsaw, PA, Scanner, CB with dual whips, traffic advisor lights, gun rack, duct tape cup holder....
recently: aih delete, fuel bowl mod, key "dinger" delete
ckanderson.. agree haahah they told me that with my pyron except reading 200 when cold.. wouldnt fix and couldnt agree that it would read 200* hotter than expected due to the cold reading
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2000 7.3 Work truck.. 'the usuall' nothing fancy
On my pyro and trans gauge you need keyed 12v going to them to work but boost didn't. install instructions call for 1amp fuse for that power also. Are your lights on gauges working? Mine are Autometer GS gauges
ckanderson.. agree haahah they told me that with my pyron except reading 200 when cold.. wouldnt fix and couldnt agree that it would read 200* hotter than expected due to the cold reading
gotta love Autometer accuracy
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2002 F-250 7.3 4x4
1964 Nova 400 w/350
yes they are lighting up like theyre supposed to but the needles dont move.
Ok lights are a differant power source then source to make gauges work. Red wire from gauges need keyed 12v source, White wire is your light source and black is of course ground. I would check for 12v on your red wire. If you had a bad ground your lights wouldn't work.
i hate to hijack but i have issues with pyro as well. is there anything better?
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Somedays its just not worth chewing through the restraints
Y2K 4x4 250 PSD Xcab, auto, F6 DP-Tuner, Autometer Z series 3 gauge A pillar pod, in tank and pre pump mods, Warn man hubs, 4" turbo back MBRP, WW, regulated return, boost/map sensor relief, 175/146 Swamps single shot injectors, Gutted EBV,AFE stage 2 (dry). lookin for new turbo and front and rear diff lockers next.
400,000 kms and still SMOKIN If it ain't smokin it must be broke.
IDK.. but i would imagine (say for me) reading 200 degress cold.. it reads 200 lower.. but even though i get towards 1200* to be safe i let off.. i dont want to be pushing 1400 even the the faulty gauge may 'say so' for me not gonna risk it till i get a new gauge or fix it.. but good question
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2000 7.3 Work truck.. 'the usuall' nothing fancy
those guys told me my boost gauge reading 5 psi with the engine off was normal, and no fix was needed.
I wonder if that is true. My Outlook on my F350 shows 2 Pounds when the engine is off. I was told that is normal. I wonder if it is not uncommon for there to be a residual pressure in the system. At least in a tight system. Depending on where in the system the sensor is located. You know, in a system that does not have any leaks.
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'03 Excursion, 7.3L, 4X4, 4" MBRP exhaust, TS performance chip, K&N FIPK w/ an Amsoil EA filter, Hellwig anti-sway bar, drilled/slotted front & rear rotors. Bilstein shocks, Rancho steering damper. Airlift 5000. This baby surprises a lot of, so called, performance cars.
'04 F 350, extended cab, 6.0L, FX4, manual tranny, 4" MBRP exhaust, Bully Dog Triple Dog downloader w/ Outlook moniter, 2m-70cm Yaesu ft-8500.
'96 Mustang Cobra convertible, B&M short throw shifter, Koni adjustable shocks, viper chip, drilled/slotted rotors front and rear, rear sequential turn signals.
I wonder if that is true. My Outlook on my F350 shows 2 Pounds when the engine is off. I was told that is normal. I wonder if it is not uncommon for there to be a residual pressure in the system. At least in a tight system. Depending on where in the system the sensor is located. You know, in a system that does not have any leaks.
its not normal. their is no residual pressure in the engine.
i was using the guage on a gasser and 3-4 psi was a HUGE increase when i was only running 15 psi.
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2002 F-250 7.3 4x4
1964 Nova 400 w/350
Autometer guages are the wham-O brand of guages. I have them in two vehicles, and Im not satisfied with any of them. The EGT guage goes schyzoid sometimes, erratic readings like jumping up several hundred degrees suddenly, flopping around all over the dial etc, and the boost guage will never show below 5psi. Autometer told me (essentially) "sux to be you" and they wouldnt replace them, and there is no tare (zero adjustment). And they *always* fog up. Cheap chinese crap, IMO.
Why ISSPRO? Who says they are any better than Autometer? Oh, one or two guys may have had good luck with them. But where is there an official report showing tests that compare the different gauges and clearly demonstrates that Autometer really is junk! Or, that ISSPRO is any better? Without such a report is all seems like some of this and some of that. BS really. No proof one way or another.
Anyone out there have definitive proof that one gauge manufacturer is better than another? Beyond just the two discussed in this thread? Or, does one company make a good pryometer but a junk boost meter. And, the other company make a great boost meter but their voltage or transmission meter is trash?
OR- are all the gauges in the price range of ISSPRO and Autometer junk? And regardless of which manufacturer one chooses he/she is taking the same rick?
Maybe an accurate boost gauge is not to be had for less than $500.00
Who makes the gauges used as OEM equipment? Why do they seem to last 100 - 200 - or 300,000 miles without a problem?
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'03 Excursion, 7.3L, 4X4, 4" MBRP exhaust, TS performance chip, K&N FIPK w/ an Amsoil EA filter, Hellwig anti-sway bar, drilled/slotted front & rear rotors. Bilstein shocks, Rancho steering damper. Airlift 5000. This baby surprises a lot of, so called, performance cars.
'04 F 350, extended cab, 6.0L, FX4, manual tranny, 4" MBRP exhaust, Bully Dog Triple Dog downloader w/ Outlook moniter, 2m-70cm Yaesu ft-8500.
'96 Mustang Cobra convertible, B&M short throw shifter, Koni adjustable shocks, viper chip, drilled/slotted rotors front and rear, rear sequential turn signals.
Just because a gauge reads something other then zero when not on doesn't neccesarily mean that the gauge is going to be inaccurate when its on. I've seen this so many time with factory and aftermarket gauges. Speedo's, tach's, fuel gauges, volts/amps sometimes the needles go where they want to until powered up. The boost gauge still bothers me though, does the gauge go to zero at idle or does it stay at 2 psi ??
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2003 Mastercraft X9
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