Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L EngineUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
1973 K5 Blazer 383stroker,TrickFlow alum.heads,Crower forged rods-roller lifter cam-roller rockers,Keith Black10.5:1,Doug Thorley tri-y,MSD,ARP,Q-jet,on 1 ton axles,1991 front clip,3K miles on FULL body off rebuild
No....All I can conclude is that the thermocoupler for the pyro is dead as is the trans temp sending unit...There are sooo many aftermarket parts wired into this truck and that makes tracking the particular problem(s) down difficult. There are spotlights mounted on each door pillar..left always works..but the right one when turned on blows the fuse that runs the cb, pa, scanner, traffic advisor light control. but the left spotlight still works..wish me luck..
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2000 f350 CCSB with banks 4", straightpiped, 6" fabtech lift, airlift 5000, Hytek Trans pan and rear diff cover, dual optimas, PIAA lights all around, Warn 12k's up front and rear, Reunel bumpers, axe, chainsaw, PA, Scanner, CB with dual whips, traffic advisor lights, gun rack, duct tape cup holder....
recently: aih delete, fuel bowl mod, key "dinger" delete, DP F5, 6637 intake
1973 K5 Blazer 383stroker,TrickFlow alum.heads,Crower forged rods-roller lifter cam-roller rockers,Keith Black10.5:1,Doug Thorley tri-y,MSD,ARP,Q-jet,on 1 ton axles,1991 front clip,3K miles on FULL body off rebuild
Of course, I suppose, once the engine is on the boost would not be at zero. Surely the turbo would be doing something.?.?.? Making some boost. Would it not?
Is there a way to check the boost at idle without the gauge? With another tool? Perhaps before the gauge but after the turbo? How about at off? To confirm if the gauge is working?
Is there a tool to connect to the OBDII plug and check the boost? How about that software that is sometimes mentioned in the threads on here?
If, when off, you disconnected the tube from the turbo to the gauge. If the gauge still read 2 pounds, for example, would that not indicate that the gauge needed adjustment? Or, replacement? But, if it dropped to zero would that not indicate that the gauge was ok?
Just asking here.
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'03 Excursion, 7.3L, 4X4, Auto tranny of course (they all did), 4" MBRP exhaust, TS performance chip, K&N FIPK w/ an Amsoil EA filter, Hellwig anti-sway bar, drilled/slotted front & rear rotors. Rancho XL shocks, Rancho steering damper, Airlift 5000, S&S Diversified headlight mod. This baby surprises a lot of, so called, performance cars.
'04 F 350, extended cab, 6.0L, FX4, manual tranny, 4" MBRP exhaust, Bully Dog Triple Dog downloader w/ Outlook moniter (Very disappointed in the Bully Dog), 2m-70cm Yaesu ft-8500, S&S Diversified headlight mod.
'96 Mustang Cobra convertible, B&M short throw shifter, Koni adjustable shocks, viper chip, drilled/slotted rotors front and rear, rear sequential turn signals.
'11 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic 103 ci PowerPak w/ anti lock brakes & Smart Security system. It even has cruise control!!! Candy Dark Root Beer over Candy Light Root Beer Yaesu FTM-10R & a Comet CSB 790A
for the gauge to read psi its prob a mech issue with it.. like stated above there is no residule boost left in the lines..
as far as reading boost at idle it cant be done.. at idle the turbine IS spinning but not making boost' maybe barley 1 psi if that (most likely just 50/50 intake blade to exhaust blade).. without the turbo the motor wouldnt run idle correctly..
.. if you check boost while in park and just reving the engine.. youll probably only see maybe 5-7psi with a stock truck.. and maybe 10-13psi on a 'chipped'.. it will be about half the amount you see while driving.. Just a little info.. hope that helps..
.. and if you gauge is reading 2psi when off.. and when turned on goes to zero its probably fine.. if you turn it on and stays at 2 but the rest of the reading seem acurate i would just take 2psi off of what you think your making..
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2000 7.3 Extended Cab Long Bed Lariat.... Van turbo (1.15ex.), Casserly stage 1's, DP tuned [()], IH uppies, 07 grille & lights, dieselsite boots, autometer gauges, 6637, walker BTM, CCV Mod, Oil X over, ITP boost anialator, Foil Delete, Add a leaf HD rear springs, leveled, 285 Nitto's, 200 gal. spray tank, 8' Fisher plow winged, 2.5 yard sander.
(waiting for reasonable answers on reasonable questions)
at idle and cruising you should be in a vacuum .Engine will be sucking more then turbo is pushing. only under acceleration or with load will you overcome negative air preasure ( vacuum ) with positive ( boost ) so you should be at zero most of the time. I THINK ? So if your gauge stays at the positive side all the time ( shows boost ) there is something wrong with gauge.
1973 K5 Blazer 383stroker,TrickFlow alum.heads,Crower forged rods-roller lifter cam-roller rockers,Keith Black10.5:1,Doug Thorley tri-y,MSD,ARP,Q-jet,on 1 ton axles,1991 front clip,3K miles on FULL body off rebuild
most of the gauges i see that get don't work or are off is from a poor install from day 1.
i run AEM digital gauges in the shop truck,
transmisson temp
tru-boost gauge
water temp
oil temp
oil press
volt meter
not a problem at all, have put 16k miles on it in 2 years towing no less than 8k lbs and trust them. If they are good enough for the race cars, they will get the job done on the tow rig.
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