Best performance upgrades for stock turbo - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 07-14-2009, 07:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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What are the best performance upgrades for stock turbo?

I am looking to improve my stock turbos performance until I can get an aftermarket one. What are the best ways to get some more SAFE performance out of it? Boost fooler, over boost annihilator, big boost? Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The items you mention do not improve the turbo or help with SAFE performance. They trick the MAP sensor into reading no more than a set psi for boost. Basically they are either pre-set at 24psi or less. So when you are hard on it the MAP sensor turns on the check engine light and the PCM defuels at around 24-25 psi. If you are running a DP-Tuner you get the check engine light but the truck does not defuel. With a fooler your PCM will not trigger a CEL. This can be bad as you may not pay attention to the gauges ( I don't see in your signature that you have gauges, which is a no no running a tuner).

Usually turbo upgrades consist of Wicked Wheel, Ported Compressor Housing, Wastegate actuator upgrade, and 1.0 A/R Exhaust Housing.
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Browning01 View Post
Boost fooler, over boost annihilator, big boost?
You said "safe" performance. So none of the above. With a stock turbo, you want to use 25 PSI as your red line. So use a tune and your right foot and your boost gauge to never exceed 25 PSI with a stock turbo. If your tune will provide more than 25 PSI, then that's why you have a boost gauge and a go pedal. Manage the go pedal so you never see over 25 PSI on the boost gauge.

You truck will also exceed the speed limit. But you don't change the tune to prevent exceeding the speed limit. Instead you use your go pedal and the speed gauge (speedometer) to prevent getting a ticket. Sam ting with the boost gauge. And with the pyrometer. Drive by the gauges.

The defuling won't happen until 27 PSI boost or slightly more, unless your tune changed that parameter. So there's no reason to have any sort of fooler to prevent the PCM from knowing you have done something that endangers your turbo if you keep the boost below 25 PSI. The foolers don't change anything but the message to the PCM informing the computer that some idiot is trying to blow up the turbo by exceeding the safe limit of 25 PSI turbo boost.

After you have a turbo (and other mods) that can live with more than 25 PSI turbo boost, then you might need a boost fooler if your tune still uses 25 PSI as the boost limit. But not with a stock turbo. And when you get the new turbo, you'll also want a new performance tune to match the turbo's specs. If your turbo and head gaskets and head bolts and other mods can handle more than 25 PSI, then tell your tuner to raise the boost limit in your performance tune accordingly.
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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An ATS ported turbo housing and an AFE intake system will do you the most good. With your existing mods, you are bound to have turbo surge and the ATS/AFE should eliminate any and extend the life of your turbo a good while longer.
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Forget the wicked wheel, just get the ATS housing. Your diy intake should be sufficient.
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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One of the posts says running a tuner w/o gauges is a no no . Is my s/c flashpaq on 80hp setting aggressive enough to need gauges. I don't tow more than 5k, but I run in the mountains alot. thanks
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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One of the posts says running a tuner w/o gauges is a no no . Is my s/c flashpaq on 80hp setting aggressive enough to need gauges. I don't tow more than 5k, but I run in the mountains alot. thanks
To me any tune above stock should have a full set of gauges (if running an auto trans) to keep an eye on the mechanical health. If you run mountain roads on a 80 hp setting even with 5 k you are entering areas of high egt and trans temps. EGT's should be kept under 1300 and with a tune you may easily be able to get it there. When towing hills unless on a large highway or interstate you often slow down for corners. When you slow down the torque converter unlocks and begins to slip causing lots of heat. If you drive for long that way your trans temp will be beyond the 225* point where most say to pull over and let her cool down. If you have a factory trans temp gauge they are garbage. They sit at "normal" until the trans gets to 255* IIRC and enter the red when 275* IIRC. At that poiint the trans would be pretty much useless and the fluid would be cooked. I know the newer fluids should be able to handle temps better now but the gauge is more of an idiot light than a gauge.
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:55 AM   #8 (permalink)
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One of the posts says running a tuner w/o gauges is a no no . Is my s/c flashpaq on 80hp setting aggressive enough to need gauges. I don't tow more than 5k, but I run in the mountains alot. thanks

YEP. Its a
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Old 07-15-2009, 01:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Gauges first! Pricey but fun to watch.
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2001 F250 4x4 crew lariat 7.3L auto, DP Tuner F5 no-start/valet/20tow/80econo/140aggressive, NAPC 450series trans w/billet triple disc TC, ISSPRO egt/boost/pyro, foil delete, 6" stainless tip, Magnaflow 17979 4" turbo-back, dieselsite boots & coolant filter kit, HX crossover, boost fooler, 6.0L trans cooler, ported turbo housing, DIY 6637 Tymar, billet grill, line-x bedliner, bug deflector, tint, 08' alum diff cover, clear corners & tails, silverstar bulbs, 2000w inverter, Tekonsha Primus, 220A HD alternator, etc.

2009 VW Jetta 2.0TDI 6spd Highline full load except nav. 19" Audi RS6 rims. REVO tuned. AS7609 navi head unit 7" touch, Custom fiberglass box MD Sound 12" & Boss NXD5500 amp. Tint is next.
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