Diy Intake Questions

[Troy250]

Hi. I have a few questions about the DIY Intake with the Napa filter.

What do I need to do with the Outside Air temp sensor? Does the filter just rest on the fender well? I have seen photos of several installs, some that use a pipe between the filter and the factory rubber flex tube and one with the rubber tube clamped directly to the filter. Which way is best? And how much performance increase have all of you noticed?

Thanks

Troy

[jocko]

I did mine not long ago and all I can say is that it was well worth it! I used a 3" PVC adapter to serve as the extension between the rubber intake tube and the filter. The 3" PVC adapter is made to mate up to a 3" I.D. PVC pipe, so it might sound confusing because the intake tube is around 4" I.D., but I can assure you, it works perfectly. I degreased it with 409 cleaner and water to make sure there was no residual release agent left on the plastic from the injection molding process and then I took steel wool and rubbed it down a bit to scuff it and make it ready to hold onto a few coats of paint. I put about 3 coats of black paint and now it looks like it is a piece of original equipment. It is inserted between the filter and rubber intake tube and held in place with stainless steel hose clamps. I inserted the filter minder into the end of the filter and made a filter cover out of an old spandex/polyester baseball jersey. Also, you can use the same PVC adapter to facilitate the CCV mod. You will do exactly the same thing to the tube as far as prepping it to install and then it will go in place of the adapter that accepts the CCV vent hose just before the turbo.





Sorry the pictures don't show the adapter. I took them to show someone the cover I had made and was not intending them to illustrate the adapter assembly, but it really ain't rocket surgery, if you know what I mean ;-)

I have no scientific data, no dyno figures, but I can tell you that it is a HUGE improvement over either the paper filter or the K&N I used to run in the stock filter box. Much better throttle response after I let the engine breathe better.

I removed the stock box but I left the battery box in place. I used a reciprocating saw to cut away the mounting tabs on the side of the battery box that held the mounting screws and this allows the filter to slide down into place. By leaving the battery box in place, I still have the rectangular air tube that runs from the front grill back to the old filter box area, so it helps channel fresh, cold air back to the new filter. I plan to ZooDad it soon. Leaving all this in place will negate the need to run a piece of dryer vent hose as some people choose to do. I have not yet bolted the filter down, but I plan to make a clamp similar to a modified battery hold-down clamp to pull down on the PVC adapter and snug the filter down, but it really is not necessary. It stays in place just fine, which is why I have left that issue so far down on the to-do list. My filter does not rest on the fender well, but rather the battery tray that is still in place after removing the stock air box.

You can also see my thread on boost leak testing to see a pic of the filter with the intake tube disconnected so you can see the end of the PVC adapter sticking out of the filter.

My version of the boost leak detector

I have my air temp sensor just leaning against the master cylinder right now. I keep meaning to zip tie it in place, but keep forgetting. Oh well, it hasn't moved in the past 1500 miles. Placement of the sensor does not seem to be critical as long as it is in the vicinity of the filter. The air flow around the filter is so good that anywhere close should be fine. I promise the air will flow and the sensor will work as long as it's not stuck down by the engine block, which it probably would not be able to reach anyhow. It's interesting to grab the sensor on a cold morning after the engine has idled up. As soon as you grab the sensor, the engine will idle back down and then when you release the sensor, the idle goes right back up. Good way to test it and make sure it works properly.
I promise this will be the best 30 bucks you have ever spent on your truck! Guaranteed!!!!

[Troy250]

Hey Thanks for the info I hope I can get some time next weekend to do this. I want to "file 13" the K&N drop in I currently have. I havent noticed any dirt intrusion or any thing like that, Iam just sick of cleaning it and drying it..........and oiling it and then applying a film of grease to the gasket to ensure a good seal. Ok so now you know how I feel about that. Thank you so much again!!!

Troy

[BTBBT]

Only thing I can add is I used a piece of 4" exhaust pipe rather than the pvc. I removed the air box portion and left the battery tray also. I don't plan on making a clamp for mine because it rests on the fender and rubs the hood. Where is it going to go?

[jocko]

I agree with the sentiment of "where's it gonna go?" The only reason I am considering making the clamp is to cinch down the hose end a little to keep the filter from making contact with the underside of the hood. Mine sits at a slight angle and there is one little area about an inch and a half in diameter where the underside of the hood makes contact. If I can solve that little issue with a clamp, I figure it will help airflow that much more. I was goning to go with the 4" exhaust pipe, but I had none and the PVC called out to me on a trip to Home Depot. What can I say? I am an "artiste" and PVC is my medium. My brother gives me a hard time because I use PVC to build almost everything.