Does hi-flow outlet need non-EBV pedestal? - Diesel Forum

ELLIOT02 · 02-08-2007, 06:46 PM

I have received my TN turbo from BWD and am waiting for the high flow outlet.Do I need to install a non-EBV pedestal?I would like to know ASAP since I am installing turbo Monday and need time to have pedestal shipped if necessary.Thanks in advance!

ELLIOT02 · 02-08-2007, 06:59 PM

Nevermind.I ordered a non EBV pedestal from Dieselsite.Bunting recommended it and I'm already this deep in. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

mlohaus · 02-08-2007, 09:41 PM

I like Bob's stuff but the Ford Remans are pricy plus there's a core. There are cheaper options out there. I'll let Brian know.

444-4D · 02-08-2007, 10:26 PM

If you want to sell your old one, send me a PM.

**PowerstrokeConverters** · 06-25-2009, 06:57 PM

Anybody knows how much labor hours is involved in doing a ATS housing and the non ebv outlet+pedestal? my mechanic charges $80 p/ hour. Thanks guys!

Njellison · 06-26-2009, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PowerstrokeConverters

Anybody knows how much labor hours is involved in doing a ATS housing and the non ebv outlet+pedestal? my mechanic charges $80 p/ hour. Thanks guys!

If you are installing a higher flowing outlet (1.0 or 1.15 ar) you do not have to do the ebpv delete pedistal allthough there will probably be some flow efficiency gain by doing so. Many keep their EBPV and use it in conjunction with a TC lockup switch to make an exhaust brake.

If you are not towing heavy in mountain passes and want to maximize performance, go for it. You might want to hang on to your pedistal in case you later change your mind. The ebpv pedistals are about 3x the cost of the non-ebpv pedistals.

The hard part of the pedistal change from what I have heard (I have not done it) is the up pipe connections. My guess would be between 4 to 6 hours. Not sure about changing the turbo outlet but the Ported shroud intake is easy and will not really add to the time. Let me know how you like the upgrades as I was also thinking of doing the pedistal change when I do the ported shroud and turbo wheel replacement.

**PowerstrokeConverters** · 06-26-2009, 07:47 PM

Sure will let you know, I will soon receive the housing,cfm+ intake(red botton/grey inlet),pedestal and hi-flow outlet. I am ready to pay around 450 for labor for everything, but could be more....I am thinking of having it dyno before and after, for some real numbers of before and after gains, or if it all was waste of money. It should be a good post for many here thinking of the same.

Njellison · 06-26-2009, 08:52 PM

That would be great,

Keep us posted.

**PowerstrokeConverters** · 07-02-2009, 05:02 PM

OK, back at this again. Do we really need the pedestal changed to non-ebv, I mean do we REAAAAAAALLY.....if nothing will blow up or give me issues down the road than I might not do it. I have it, but I want to save on the labor and all.
I had the CFM+ inlet installed today and deleted the heater, it seems to help, really, and I also cut that plastic that is in front of the airfilter tube, I believe you guys named it "Zoodad". But what really helped was removing the vaccum tube from the waste gate actuator. That things was probably bad because I NEVER got the psi boost that I am getting now, not even close!
So, next will be the ATS and maybe the non-ebv outlet and pedestal, I am also trying to buy a IC from a 6.0.......we'll see.

Njellison · 07-02-2009, 05:58 PM

CFM + looks cool,

of course now you have to do the foil delete and paint your IC tubes to match. Glad to hear the performance improved.

I don't think the pedistal change out really does that much for performance, but improved air flow is the name of the game and it will contribute more than most minor mods. Some people also choose to delete it as they hate the sound of it when it is running or they have oil leaks all over the top of the engine from the worn oil rings at the valve. I guess the time to make that call is when you have the turbo off anyway.

What did you mechanic charge for the CFM install or did you do it yourself?

ps: Careful with the wastegate tube delete, lifting the heads off the block from too much boost would be a bummer this summer.

**PowerstrokeConverters** · 07-02-2009, 06:14 PM

Yep, it would be a bummer, I am not stomping it at all, I am not the type to be getting on it and every light, I gradually increase boost and I did see it around 20 psi after all the mods installed today, before I would be lucky to even see 12-15.
He charged me 75 bucks to do the CFM+ and the Zoodad, but I am a 18+ year customer too.
But even being a regular, it could not cost more than 85-90, because it was pretty simple. I did need to clean or better "dust" my engine compartment too.

I like the CFM, the red piece is so light compared to the original one, and after analyzing the original, I can see why it is better to separate the tubes, also the inside of the original is pretty rough, CFM is smooth.
I have the turbo master actuator so I will take it easy until I get my ATS housing and then I will have a safer way to boost it up to 20+ psi.
deleting the heater was also a good thing, that thing sticks out so much and it create a lot of air turbulence on that side of the engine I suppose and I'm in Miami !!
On the hwy it was cruising really nice and it would spool nice and easy, I was singing all the way home, or was it my turbo.......

**PowerstrokeConverters** · 07-02-2009, 06:18 PM

BTW, the foil delete will have to wait, because from what hear around here, with the WW and the ATS, that thing screams......so I will wait because I don't want to over do it, I did put two Magnaflow mufflers after one was still "loud"...lololol.....so you can see that I am not into too much noise....but I will try to buy one w/o and leave mine alone, so that way I can swap it depending on my mood.

Njellison · 07-02-2009, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PowerstrokeConverters

He charged me 75 bucks to do the CFM+ and the Zoodad,

Sweeeet!

I have the turbo master actuator so I will take it easy until I get my ATS housing and then I will have a safer way to boost it up to 20+ psi.

Good call.

deleting the heater was also a good thing,

I have thought about that one as well. Since I am in Western WA I do need some pre-heat aspect in winter and if I do the pedistal delete I will be leaving the AIH operational. On the other hand it is cheaper and easier to do the AIH.

Decisions, decisions.

**PowerstrokeConverters** · 07-02-2009, 09:53 PM

About the warming up in cold weather, where you live you should maybe keep some form of heating element and get a 203 thermostat. I am not sure which one would be better to keep in cold weather, the ebv or the intake heater, most likely the ebv is the one to get rid of. If you think of the lower egt's alone it makes it worth it. The other one is not that bad, I mean it is not a valve that blocks air, but just a probe that heats up the air.
In South Florida not really necessary.
I know that I will not be going north in the winter anyways, not with my tires and in a 4x2.
It is cheaper to do the AIH now(money wise), but "cheaper" to do the EBV because your lower EGT temp and better exhaust flow will save you a lot of $$$ down the road.
In fuel and in parts, specially if you plan on towing.
How's your Trucool? I wanna lower my tranny temp and was looking at it on dieselsite.

westvandude · 07-03-2009, 01:27 AM

Put that boost tube back on the wastegate.... your hwy fuel economy will go to crap.

Yes, it builds more boost but that extra boost is wasted energy because it had enough stock boost to not smoke out the tailpipe. Watching the boost psi gauge is fun but ideally there is a balance between too low and too much boost for the fuel you have to burn to remain efficient.

Anyhow, you should be seeing 15-17psi stock. If less than that you've probably got leaks from your intercooler boots (also check the engine valley boots). I got new dieselsite boots because my boots looked real greasy... probably were cheese-cloth for letting boost escape.

140hp tune can run up past 25psi. That's the "old wives tail" mechanical psi limit for the OE turbo if you want it to last. Surge at that psi will kill it. Housing is best solution or if you're rich a GTP38R.