Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L EngineUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
i was told about these e-lockers and i wanted to order them for my 02 f250 super duty which has limited slip front and back. i saw that summit racing sells them but i dont know what spline my axles have also what does it mean by a 9 inch rear?. summit sells the lockers but do i need to replace anything else or does the lockers that summit sells all i need to have these lockers installed/
The 9 inch is an axle. I beleive the 250's like yours have a Sterling 10.5 inch axle(?) which is 35 spline. The locker should replace the entire carrier so all you need is the locker and new gear oil/silicone for a new gasket. I assume the wiring comes with the locker.
Your rear axle is a Ford axle with a 10.5" ring gear and 35 splines on the hub end. The Ford axles are sometimes called "Sterling" axles because they are assembled in the Ford axle plant located in Sterling, MI. Right now, Visteon is running that plant, so Ford calls those axles Visteon axles, but they are the same old Ford-design axles that the Sterling plant has been producing for 20 years or more.
Your front axle on a 2002 4x4 could be either a Dana 50 or a Dana 60. (Ford changed from the Dana 50 to the Dana 60 during the model year.) Both have 30 splines on the hub end. The Dana 50 has a 9" ring gear and the Dana 60 has a 9.75" ring gear, so it makes a big difference which locker you buy. So you need to figure out for sure whether you have a Dana 50 or Dana 60 on the front end. No, I don't know how to tell by looking, but others do.
My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.
Last edited by SmokeyWren; 09-02-2010 at 09:29 AM.
03 F-350 DRW Lariat 7.3,4x4 6-Speed, 4.10Gears , 4 inch ProComp lift, BFG AT LT315/75R16, 3 in. spacer between duals.
GT38R 1.0 Housing
Banks Monster Exhaust, w/Turbo Elbow, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Kit, South Bend Stage 2 Clutch and Cyro'ed Flywheel
DP 80econ -Stuck there for now because someone stole my SCT box
2 Optima Red Tops
Auto Meter Boost and Pyro Gauges
8,200lbs---Cat Scale---Thats me and and 38 Gallons of Diesel
1987 Mustang GT Cobra Clone- crate motor, cage and more suspension than I know what to do with
Loves to run down Vettes and Vipers on the road course
Might I add another choice to the mix? I prefer ARB air lockers to any of the above choices. E-Lockers have been known to break small parts in jeep applications when pushed and then not have any support from the mfgr. This was a point brought up in a thread on jeepforum.com.
A full Detriot, while bulletproof, is a PITA on the road in normal conditions and I guarantee you will be more than exciting to drive in icy/snowy conditions. I have personal experience with driving my fathers truck for a week as his has a full Detriot in the rear and a Tru-Trac in the front. Every corner you accelerate out of, even gently, results in squealing tires. He has considered swapping it out for this reason.
The ARB is a known, reliable and extremely tough unit that when unlocked functions as an open diff. When locked, it is fully locked and functions like a spool. The point being is that YOU decide when you want a locked diff by pushing a switch.
I would go one of two ways...either ARBs if I needed that kind of traction or Detriot TRU-TRAC limited slips which are completely street friendly but work exceptionally well in tow rigs or mild trail trucks.
2001 F-350 CC 4x4 XLT PSD.,Pro Comp 6.5 suspension, 325/65/18 Nitto Terra Grapplers,18x10 Ultra Chrome Predator 8s, Trenz Grill,AMP Research Power Steps,X-Monitor,BD Pressure-Loc,SCMT,4 in MBRP Stainless exhaust,Tru-Cool Max,AFE Magnum Intake,Wicked Wheel,BRPV,203* stat,Western Diesel Turbo BrakeIII,Sonnax/Tri-springs,1400watt Pioneer/Polk Audio/Fosgate stereo, pre-pump & tank mods,ORU diff covers,acetoned badges,zoodad mod,heater core bypass,Friends of Oceano Dunes supporter, American Sand Association supporter. KEEP THE DUNES OPEN!!!!!
98 Jeep TJ, 5.7 HEMI/545RFE, RE 4.5 LA,35in MTRs,JB Conv.231JHD,G2 D44, HP 30,ARBs,4.10s, Gen Right Alum. fenders, Premier Power Welder, Warn 9.5 CTi, LoD bumpers,LED lights.
Could you elaborate on why you would have liked the Auburn in the rear instead of the DL? I'm trying to decide what setup to do in my truck.
While the Detroit is more street friendly than I thought it was going to be I think the Auburn would be more street friendly. I do not have a problem in icy conditions with the detroit but when towing a heavy trailer (sometimes empty also) when making a turn like pulling away from a stop sign it will lock in. The Auburn would slip better allowing the turn without scratching the tires.
I don't like the ARB because it is open normally, and I like my rear to be pulling both tires automatically for those times when you do not have time to stop push buttons let it engage then go. The auburn would be limited slip and would pull most of the time then when you get in something bad you can lock it in tight. Also even though I have onboard air on my truck I did not want to hassle with the air fittings and lines leaking on the ARB.
I have had the Detroit rear/eaton front in for 76,000 miles. Zero problems with either. This is in my F150, my Superduty is stock LS rear since I don't offroad it as much as the F150.
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