'99 & up Upgrades and Aftermarket - 7.3L EngineUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I second the question. I am also wondering because it seems to be talked about a lot here.
2001 F-350 CC ZF-6 DRW 4x4 4.10, 7.5 ton modified J&I flatbed dump, Rifraff frx, Garret BB, Non EBPV pedistal, IH bellowed pipes, DP tuner F-6 chip, SB dual disk, Midwest short shifter, Ranch Hand legend front end, Ford AIS, AGR super pump, AGR gearbox, Mile Marker 10k hydraulic, 4 inch turbo back, Riffraff boots, Pacbrake, 2WD Low mod, ISSPRO boost, pyro, trans gauges, DIY gooseneck/bumper hitches, Prodigy brake controller, 4 leaf overload springs, Viair compressor with horn, Dieselsite 203* t-stat, ESOF lines, DIY Oil HX mod, 08 mirrors, 245/70r19.5 tires. All led lights.
1997 F-250 EC SB ZF-5, 4x4, d60 front swap, E-fuel, Full Force stage 1s, DP F-5 chip, Swamps IDM, 6637 filter, 3in downpipe to 4 in exhaust muffler delete. Leveling kit on 18 weld wheels and 35's, all led lights, Reunel Rear bumper, Flatbed w/stackrack
the EBPV is a movable plate in the turbo outlet housing. It will "close" restricting exhaust flow thus quickening the warm up of the engine. The action of the EBPV is controlled by the PCM based on a bunch of input values (ambient temp, throttle position, etc).
One could submit that this is unnecessary for a vehicle in warmer climates. Also, some suggest that the plate presents a significant restriction to exhaust flow. The actuator rod could develop a leak creating a nusiance oil leak. Also with the multi postion chips available, one could just get a "high idle" selection to accomplish the same thing.
My impression is that the delete is done to ensure maximum exhaust flow, and thus maximize gains from exhaust & turbo mods.
Disadvantage would seem to be losing a warm up feature.
To do the mod, one could disable the actuator and gut the housing, or one could order a housing without the EBPV and a turbo pedestal without the actuator assembly, both available from site sponsors and others.
If you can swap a turbo, you can swap the EBPV parts. The "gutting" takes a bit of ability, but well within the capabilites of most.
If the more seasoned, and experienced mod members would like to comment, please feel free to increase my knowledge.
2000 F350 CC 4wd DRW, 4.10, Ultimate spray in bedliner, Hutches tank & prepump mods, H/X mod, Rhino Grillguard, Hella lights, DI Fuel Reg mods, Air Dog, Bob's 203 thermostat,80hp injectors, heater core bypass, FTVB & AIH plug. ZooDad mod,AIS filter, ISSPRO EV Oil,Water,& Tranny temp,Pyro,Oil pressure,Boost gauges, non EBV pedestal & Turbo outlet, Garrett BB turbo, MBRP 4" duals, PML trans pan,front & rear diff covers, more to come.
The EBPV delete is where you pull the turbo and pedestal, drill or grind off the 2 rivets that hold the EBPV butterfly to the shaft and remove the whole thing. I'm not sure how much you know about the EBPV system, but during cold temps outside, oil pressure engages the butterflies to block off part of your exhaust causing a load on the engine, which in turn causes the motor or idle up slightly and warm up quicker. There is a shaft that goes through the exhaust side of the turbo and this shaft has a plate that blocks off part of the exhaust flow. There has been talk of small reductions in EGT's and such. I have gutted mine and just like the way the truck is no longer going to high idle and making more noise and such. I like to control the high idle with my DP chip. It takes just a minute or so longer to warm up with out the EBPV. I was also starting to get a small leak where the small shaft comes out of the pedestal to actuate the EBPV. It just made scence to take it apart, cut off that shaft and plug the hole with a pipe plug. Not having the EBPV anymore, i didnt need the actuater. I know this has been a bit long winded. If you need more info, please let me know.
99.5 4X4, MBRP 4" SS EXHAUST, MUFFLER DELETE, K&N FIPK, ATS PORTED HOUSING, WW, AIH PLUGGED, HPX, CCV , ZOODAD , HARPOONED, DP-TUNER, CAB LIGHTS BY ME WITH WHITE LEDS & CLEAR LENSES, LED DOME LIGHTS AND 3RD BRAKE LIGHT.
For me it was one of the best mods. I honestly feel my truck warms up faster now. The hardest part I found was getting a good 12pt socket to loosen off the somewhat frozen bolts. Once I got them out the rivets on the valve were easy to file/grind off. Most people use a 20mm freeze plug, but I used a 1/2" stainless bolt and double SS nuts to plug the hole with some Oatey thread dope smeared in there. If I ever change the turbo I will get a non-ebpv pedestal. For now I just unplugged the actuator.
Early 99 7.3L PSD Crew Cab Long Bed - Primary Horse Hauling Rig
-Stage 1 160cc Single Shot Injectors - DP Tuner F5 - 60 Tow, 80 Econo, High Idle, Stock - NVK5 PCM thanks to DP Tuner
- Home Brew fuel system with Aeroquip socketless fittings, socketless hose, and Aeromotive Regulated Return
-4" Lift 33x12.5x16.5 Dunlap Rover A/T - 5" MKO Aluminized Exhaust w/6" Stainless Tip - Pair of Optima Red Tops - Napa 6670 Air Intake filter - Triple Gauge A-pillar Pod w/Autometer UltraLite:Trans, EGT, Boost - CCV Mod