Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L EngineUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I have been looking at a regulated return for quite a while now and have finally settled on ITP. I have two additional questions.
I'm looking at an Air Dog for pre pump filtering. If I install the Air Dog do I need to do the tank mods? If I do a regulated return and the tank mods can I just do a Dhal 100 or something like that?
If I get the fuel bowl delete kit what can I use for post pump filtering? Can I use a Dhal 100 for that and if I do, wouldn't having the Air Dog and the Dahl be an overkill?
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2002 F-350 crew cab, long bed, SRW. 4 inch exhaust, 6.0 tranny cooler, AFE Stage II, High Performance tranny from Mountain Transmission in Montrose Co. DP Tuner F5 switch stock, 40tow,60tow,4low exhaust brake, 80econ, regular exhaust brake. DB Starter, Ranch Hand front bumper,
ITP in tank and prefilter mod, Harpooned tank. Custom front springs/leveling kit (thanks Spring Works) with Ranch RS9000 front shocks. Centramatic Wheel Balancers
ok, so no tank mod if I'm doing the air dog. What about a filter for my removed fuel bowl? What are the recommendations?
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2002 F-350 crew cab, long bed, SRW. 4 inch exhaust, 6.0 tranny cooler, AFE Stage II, High Performance tranny from Mountain Transmission in Montrose Co. DP Tuner F5 switch stock, 40tow,60tow,4low exhaust brake, 80econ, regular exhaust brake. DB Starter, Ranch Hand front bumper,
ITP in tank and prefilter mod, Harpooned tank. Custom front springs/leveling kit (thanks Spring Works) with Ranch RS9000 front shocks. Centramatic Wheel Balancers
If youre considering buying the ITP return kit you should call Dennis at ITP and ask him these questions. Hes a very honest, straight forward guy and will help you out.
If youre considering buying the ITP return kit you should call Dennis at ITP and ask him these questions. Hes a very honest, straight forward guy and will help you out.
Yea, I know but I wanted to sound half way educated about it before I called him and maybe have some options in mind. I've got a lot of info from reading past threads but still don't know the exact way I want to go.
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2002 F-350 crew cab, long bed, SRW. 4 inch exhaust, 6.0 tranny cooler, AFE Stage II, High Performance tranny from Mountain Transmission in Montrose Co. DP Tuner F5 switch stock, 40tow,60tow,4low exhaust brake, 80econ, regular exhaust brake. DB Starter, Ranch Hand front bumper,
ITP in tank and prefilter mod, Harpooned tank. Custom front springs/leveling kit (thanks Spring Works) with Ranch RS9000 front shocks. Centramatic Wheel Balancers
While an Airdog will remove the air from the fuel, you may still want to drop the tank.
The reason is, eliminate the intank filter on the end of the pickup tube. I done this 5 years ago and eliminated the hassle of repeately dropping the tank to get at this clogged up filter. My prepump filter is mounted on the frame rail.
This make it really easy to view, service, and clean the filter.
Hopes this helps,
Butchcassidy1
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2000 F250, 2WD, XLT - A HAULING AND TOWING WORKHORSE.
So if I drop the tank and do the mods there, do I really need the airdog? Wouldn't the Dahl work for a good filter and I would have fixed the air problem? I'm starting to think that maybe I don't need the air dog, just to do the in tank mods and a Dahl, then the regulated return.
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2002 F-350 crew cab, long bed, SRW. 4 inch exhaust, 6.0 tranny cooler, AFE Stage II, High Performance tranny from Mountain Transmission in Montrose Co. DP Tuner F5 switch stock, 40tow,60tow,4low exhaust brake, 80econ, regular exhaust brake. DB Starter, Ranch Hand front bumper,
ITP in tank and prefilter mod, Harpooned tank. Custom front springs/leveling kit (thanks Spring Works) with Ranch RS9000 front shocks. Centramatic Wheel Balancers
The air dog is better at removing the water than the Dahl. It is also an axillary pump that will reduce the work of your factory pump helping to extend its life. If you drop the tank don't forget to harpoon it, cutting the vent tube.
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'01 PSD Super Cab Longbed, with Forged Rods Banks intercooler, Banks 1.0 A/R turbine housing and Quick Turbo fly wheel, Banks 4" Powerelbow, 4" down pipe and exhaust, Big Head wastegate, DP chip-Stock HI 40T 80T 80E 120, AIH delete, pillar gages, AFE-Stage2, Zoodad, ITP in tank and prepump mods, ITP regulated return, Stealth HPOP, Airdog, harpooned, MagHytec dif. covers & tranny pan, rebuilt trans with new ATS 5 star T.C., billet input shaft, replaced diode, HD gears, 6.0 trans cooler, trans filter, Donahoe 4.5" lift w/ dual Fox resi. shocks, and custom built traction bars.
I have very little air trapped in my current fuel delivery system.
I dropped the tank, removed the oem intank fuel filters. removed the stupid duckbill fuel flapper.and installed inline prepump pump filter. In the engine compartment, I undid the "deadend" oem fuel supply (big problem w/ trapping air in the fuel). I installlec a regulated return back to the fuel tank.
The majority of air gets returned to the tank and not passed thru the costly injectors. This setup has really reduced the cackle com,ing from the engine. It is still going strong after 5 years running.
Hopes this helps,
Butchcassidy1
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2000 F250, 2WD, XLT - A HAULING AND TOWING WORKHORSE.
Ok, digging into this with the help of others I have come up with this:
in tank mods, probably ITP's in tank kit with Dahl 100 filter and ITP's regulated return.
When the existing fuel pump fails I will upgrade it with the Fuelab pump. I'd replace the existing pump now but since it hasn't failed yet I don't think I want to spend the money. Would there be any benifit to doing this?
I'm still trying to decide on post pump filtration since I want to remove the existing fuel bowl.
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2002 F-350 crew cab, long bed, SRW. 4 inch exhaust, 6.0 tranny cooler, AFE Stage II, High Performance tranny from Mountain Transmission in Montrose Co. DP Tuner F5 switch stock, 40tow,60tow,4low exhaust brake, 80econ, regular exhaust brake. DB Starter, Ranch Hand front bumper,
ITP in tank and prefilter mod, Harpooned tank. Custom front springs/leveling kit (thanks Spring Works) with Ranch RS9000 front shocks. Centramatic Wheel Balancers
Yea, I know but I wanted to sound half way educated about it before I called him and maybe have some options in mind. I've got a lot of info from reading past threads but still don't know the exact way I want to go.
As a member of the site, Dennis is often here, so your secret is out.
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George
6/2011 F350 PSD Lariate, CC, 4x4, LB, DRW
06 Newmar Cypress 29KSRE 5th wheel/MorRyde IS, Kodiac Disc Brakes.
in tank mods, probably ITP's in tank kit with Dahl 100 filter and ITP's regulated return.
Why not just my whole tank kit that includes a filter? Everything in one box that way.
Quote:
When the existing fuel pump fails I will upgrade it with the Fuelab pump. I'd replace the existing pump now but since it hasn't failed yet I don't think I want to spend the money. Would there be any benifit to doing this?
Even when your stock pump fails, don't just immediately jump to an aftermarket unit. If your fuel delivery needs don't justify an aftermarket pump, the stock Bosch unit will be a better bet and a direct bolt-in with no extra work. Going to an aftermarket pump requires changing the pickup in the tank, going to larger lines, etc. Aftermarket is not always better.
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I'm still trying to decide on post pump filtration since I want to remove the existing fuel bowl.
Is there a reason why you want to remove the fuel bowl. I've sold a bunch of the bowl delete kits to people that "just wanted it", despite me recommending that they stay with the factory bowl. Doing the bowl delete is a semi-custom job requiring appropriate post-pump filtration and custom fuel lines from the pump to the engine and from the regulators return port back to the tank. It's easily justified by high performance guys doing "big oil" work, big aftermarket turbos (single or compounds), other "custom" work. If your truck is a basic chip/intake/exhaust daily driver type, why mess with it?
If you do decide to go the bowl delete route, I've had many customers use the WIX 24770 filter base from NAPA with the Baldwin BF7633 filter from my site as their post-pump setup. You'll have to decide where to mount it on your truck and run the plumbing yourself.
Hope that helps.
__________________ Dennis Schroeder - Strictly Diesel Phone :: 623-582-4404 E-Mail :: sales@strictlydiesel.com Main Website :: www.strictlydiesel.com Web Store :: shop.strictlydiesel.com Race Truck :: 5500# / 422hp+ / 12.66 @ 105mph / Best 60' of 1.67 ... on 226k Mile PMRs!(PMR engine retired)
Race Truck :: 5800# / ???hp / 11.94 @ 114mph / Best 60' of 1.76 ... with "Built" Race Engine
Dennis, thanks for the reply. I'll probably give you a call later next week to discuss what I want to do.
I like upgrading things, I upgrade airplane avionics for a living. I like gadgets. That is why I always want "bigger and better" aftermarket upgrades. I'll slowly do things, have the Garret turbo, big oil and many other things, to upgrade my truck so as my friends buy new trucks every other year my truck will still out perform their new rigs. It simply gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling, you know
For some reason I like the Dahl fuel filter and would need convincing that the system in your kit is as good or better.
The main reason I want to remove the fuel bowl is I HATE getting the dam thing to seal after I change the filter and man it looks cool without the fuel bowl.
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2002 F-350 crew cab, long bed, SRW. 4 inch exhaust, 6.0 tranny cooler, AFE Stage II, High Performance tranny from Mountain Transmission in Montrose Co. DP Tuner F5 switch stock, 40tow,60tow,4low exhaust brake, 80econ, regular exhaust brake. DB Starter, Ranch Hand front bumper,
ITP in tank and prefilter mod, Harpooned tank. Custom front springs/leveling kit (thanks Spring Works) with Ranch RS9000 front shocks. Centramatic Wheel Balancers
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