How to improve fuel mileage on a '02 F250 7.3 Diesel - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 09-23-2010, 06:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How to improve fuel mileage on a '02 F250 7.3 Diesel

I have a Superchips 1705 Tuner set to Tow Safe Mode, but my fuel mileage has dropped since the introduction of the newer ultra low sulfur fuel.

I am considering installing a 4" turbo back exhaust and a after market air intake system. I'm still not clear on the brand of intake?????

At 63 I don't care about racing, just trying to find a COST EFFECTIVE way to improve my MPG. My other question is will the cost justify the improved mpg's?

I have a 2002 Ford F250, 7.3, cc, 3.73 rear, SB, ISSPRO Gauges pulling a 34' 5ver @ 18,700 GVWR
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Your best bet would be to ditch the superchips, and go with a chip or programmer with custom tunes from a reputable tuner. I would recommend dp-tuner, but there are a few other really good ones. His econ tunes are great (I can get 18-19 and still drive with some fun, and can milk 20) , and all his tunes are powerful, and safe for your truck.

A tymar intake is what I have. It was around 230 bucks, and I love it.

If you're okay with straightpipe exhaust, there's a vendor on here selling a 4" exhaust for 250 dollars shipped, which is a great deal.
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I get about the same mileage as the last guy who posted and pulling my 35 ft. Cameo fifth wheel at 65 I will get 11.5 - 12. I really like the SCT Livewire programmer but it was the combination of Intake, exhaust and ATS housing that made the difference on my truck.
You didn't mention what tires you are running. That can make a big difference on mileage.
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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My AFE products have paid for themselves. With the introduction of the intake and the exhaust I gained almost 3mpg.
Before my dp-tuner chip I was able to get 20mpg at 70mph, and 25-26.5 at 55mph.
I haven't done any calculations since I got the chip (mainly because I'm still having too much fun with it) but with the same routine in driving, the amount of gas I would use in 7days is now around 10days. Some might say this is trivial but I do have a pretty set schedule in driving so that is an improvement to me.
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Get the smallest tires/wheels that will fit and lower the vehicle. Big tires are the worst thing you can do for mileage in my experience.
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It could be poor fuel quality. If I fuel up in other cities, I sometimes get 2-3 more MPG than I do here. Larger tires and leveling kits can worsen fuel economy as well. I also add Diesel Kleen with fuel up sometimes and that seems to help a bit with fuel economy. I can maybe get 1 more MPG with Diesel Kleen.

For the intake, I would suggest the Ford AIS. It is a Ford part and does a great job of filtering and also flows well. I like the Diamond Eye exhausts. I think these kits are fairly low cost for the 250-350 trucks.
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Old 09-26-2010, 01:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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After changing the intake, the exhaust, the program the single biggest change came by taking the tires from 285's back to 235's. Less rubber on the road meant less friction. I gained 2-3 mpg both towing and empty driving. The next biggest thing is to keep the speed down.

I also use Diesel Kleen. I don't think you notice anything immediately but after longterm use you see consistently better operating injectors.
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Old 09-26-2010, 01:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by new2diesels View Post
I'm still not clear on the brand of intake?????
Your best bet is the Ford Severe Duty AIS.
Tousley Ford Parts Depot

The AIS probably won't save enough fuel to pay for the $200 cost, but if it saves your engine from a dusting then it will pay for itself several times over.

Quote:
At 63 I don't care about racing, just trying to find a COST EFFECTIVE way to improve my MPG. My other question is will the cost justify the improved mpg's?
You're just a kid. I'll be 73 November 7th.

No, there is no such thing as a cost-effective way to improve MPG, other than slowing down. Unless you assign a value to a much-better running engine and a more pleasant towing experience, then any money you spend on mods will not be cost effective.

I have an MBA from a good school, so I know how to compute cost effectiveness.

So even though it didn't improve my MPG enough to ever pay for the mods, I'd do it again because I like the power and responsiveness of the 7.3L engine on a DP-Tuner 60-tow tune with AIS intake and Magnaflow 4" exhaust and ISSPRO EV gauges.

As someone else mentioned, one thing you can do to improve MPG is to run LT235/85R16E tires on stock wheels.That won't cost you anything extra if you wait until you need tires to replaces the ones you have now.

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I have a 2002 Ford F250, ...pulling a 34' 5ver @ 18,700 GVWR
And I'm sure the CAT scale ticket that told you the gross combined weight (GCW, not GVWR) of 18,700 pounds also told you that you're overloaded over the 8,800 pounds GVWR of your tow vehicle.
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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.
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Old 09-26-2010, 02:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for all your input. I am leaning toward a 4" turbo back exhaust with an AFE Stage II Pro Guard Intake. I just replaced my stock Firestones with Michelin X-Radial LT/MS 265/75R-16. My '02 only has just over 35,000 original miles on it. It's not broke in good. :>)

Also Trailer Life's Tow Guide lists my '02 F250 SD 7.3 diesel at 12,800 max 5th wheel towing and Ford lists its max gvwr @ 20,000 lbs. so I am still under the max @ 18,700.

Thanks again for everones input!
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new2diesels View Post

Also Trailer Life's Tow Guide lists my '02 F250 SD 7.3 diesel at 12,800 max 5th wheel towing and Ford lists its max gvwr @ 20,000 lbs. so I am still under the max @ 18,700.
Heeere we go!
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87 f250 4wd LB ex cab 460 bored .60 edelbrock intake, towing cam glasspacks-6 mpg 8 on good day- my pride & joy once towed my '85 j-co j-crane 28' 5er

99 F250 7.3(engine stamped june of '99) 250K white ex cab lb, 2wd
jl audio slash 4ch amp, jl 8" sub, focal components front, infinity coax rear, 10 disc changer

-tymar intake, no muff
-bullydog egt, autometer boost
-f5 chip w/80t, 80e, 60t, 100, 140 extreme(140 is amazing!)
Garrett 38r
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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...My '02 only has just over 35,000 original miles on it. It's not broke in good. :>)...
WOW!
I thought mine was low mileage with 84,000 on it!
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by new2diesels View Post
Also Trailer Life's Tow Guide lists my '02 F250 SD 7.3 diesel at 12,800 max 5th wheel towing and Ford lists its max gvwr @ 20,000 lbs. so I am still under the max @ 18,700.

Thanks again for everones input!
But you have to learn how to cipher all that good information. 20,000 lbs is your GCWR not GVWR. Your GVWR is 8,800 lbs, and that is the problem.

If you stay within the Ford towing guideline, the heaviest 5th wheel trailer you can tow with an F-250 CC 4x4 diesel is about 5,000 pounds.
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Also Trailer Life's Tow Guide lists my '02 F250 SD 7.3 diesel at 12,800 max 5th wheel towing and Ford lists its max gvwr @ 20,000 lbs. so I am still under the max @ 18,700.
True, but you ignored the fine print. The Trailer Life Tow Guide copies the Ford RV and Trailer Towing guide, which says your max 5th wheel trailer weight is 12,800 pounds, PROVIDED you do not exceed either the GVWR or the GCWR of the truck.

In order to tow a 12,800 pound trailer with a GCWR of 20,000 pounds, your wet and loaded tow vehicle could weigh not more than 7,200 pounds. I'll bet you a Rib-Eye dinner than your truck weighs more than 7,200 pounds when wet and loaded with driver, full tank of diesel, and 5er hitch, along with an adult passenger, toolbox full of tools, cooler full of cool, and options such as a spray-in bedliner. Mine weighs around 8,000 before I back up to the 5er, and it's a 4x2.

If you can throw out tools and passengers and stuff to get the weight of the wet and loaded tow vehicle down to 7,200, that leaves a max hitch weight of 1,600 pounds before you bump into the GVWR of the truck. A 12,800 pound trailer with a hitch weight of 1,600 pounds is only 12.5 percent hitch weight. Most 5ers in the 12,000 pound weight class have a hitch weight of around 17 percent. So even if you get the weight of the tow vehicle down to 7,200 to stay below the GCWR of 20,000 pounds, you'll still be overloaded over the GVWR of the tow vehicle.

If you exceeed the 20,000 pound GCWR, you're overloaded. Or if you exceed the 8,800 pound GVWR of the tow vehicle, you're overloaded. With my 25-foot 8,000 pound 5er, my F-250 is overloaded, although my combined weight is only 16,000. So I'm pretty sure than anyone that tows a 5er that weighs more than 8,000 pounds with a '99-'04 F-250 diesel pickup is going to be overloaded.

You've got the CAT scale ticket. What does say?
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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.
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Old 09-27-2010, 10:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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amazing how a fuel mileage thread has broken out in to two topics. i am glad you scaled your truck and trailer. most people dont even go that far. great you care to be safe. ford has axle weight ratings. i suggest finding them for your truck. then check to make sure you are not exceeding either. nxt on the scale ticket add steer axle and drive axle. this will be your trucks gvw. if any numbers are over. you may be able to move some things in the truck to the trailer or some things in the trailer back some to adjust the weight.

always use load range E tires. tire stores have a habit of advertising great tire deals and the price are for load range c and d.

i am a firm believer in fuel quality. i own a tractor trailer and diesel pickup. i purchase fuel all over the usa and burn thousands of gallons of it. cheap priced diesel does not mean quality diesel. there are many different additive packages for diesel today. ever notice pumps have a cetane rating. highest i ever found was 50 and i got great mpg on that. some stations dont change the filters on their pumps. i suggest useing a station that appears to be well maintained and is busy with diesel customers. good chance to get good diesel that way. better yet use truck stops when you can. i have found i get better mpg useing ta and petro over the others. when in pennsylvania sunoco has a great diesel blend imo.

keep your tires aired up to the proper pressure. that is for your truck and camper. i have slime in my tractor trailer tires. i no longer have natural air pressure drops. the slime helps seal the imperfections in the rubber. they claim to seal a small tire puncture too. walmart and parts stores sell slime.

use the cruise control a lot. when approaching a hill roll into the throttle some with your foot. this will actually use less fuel then useing the cruise on a hill. turn cruise off before reaching the top. wait till level ground and switch cruise back on.

i may get blasted for what i am about to say but oh well. ultra low sulfur diesel is junk. to bad thats what we are stuck with. when it first came out our injector warranty claims went through the roof at the ford dealer i worked at. i swear they changed something in ULSD cause injector warranty claims are no where near what they use to be. that being said i add a quart of ATF to a full tank of fuel. i wait till my third top off and add another quart. i have found this improves mpg. that being said if for some strange reason you get checked for off road diesel good chance you will get a ticket.

something else i found to help me with mpg. i changed the entire truck to synthetic fluid. i have synthetic in the engine, power steering, trans, transfer case, and diffs. yes it is costly but every little bit helps. the ROI probably takes longer.

a quality steering stabilizer will help too. there is a debate if single or dual is better. i use dual and kyb stabilizers.

quality shocks and a rear sway bar will help too. the more stable the truck the better mpg.
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Old 09-28-2010, 02:56 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Your best bet is the Ford Severe Duty AIS.
Tousley Ford Parts Depot

The AIS probably won't save enough fuel to pay for the $200 cost, but if it saves your engine from a dusting then it will pay for itself several times over.





No, there is no such thing as a cost-effective way to improve MPG, other than slowing down. Unless you assign a value to a much-better running engine and a more pleasant towing experience, then any money you spend on mods will not be cost effective.

I have an MBA from a good school, so I know how to compute cost effectiveness.

So even though it didn't improve my MPG enough to ever pay for the mods, I'd do it again because I like the power and responsiveness of the 7.3L engine on a DP-Tuner 60-tow tune with AIS intake and Magnaflow 4" exhaust and ISSPRO EV gauges.
I have nearly the same setup as you, with exceptions being that I have an MBRP 4" exhust, and run Jody's 80hp economy tune. I do also have 315-16 tires, and a 4" lift so that's obviously going to hurt my MPG. I did all of these mods at 80,000 miles, after a less than satisfactory experience with a SC 1705, even in the lower tunes. I don't tow heavy (7k max), so I don't have a dog in the heavy towing fight.

However, after 110,000 additional miles and tracking every tankful (with correction for speedo error, I can honestly say that I'm getting 20-30% better mileage than when it was stock. A buddy of mine and I towed to Moab with nearly identical 6500lb loads, he in his 08 and me in my 2000. At 70MPH I was getting just under 13MPG, and his truck was returning MPG in the 9's!

So I'm very happy with my "investment".

So if I figure 14MPG average over those 110k miles it looks something like this.

110,000/14=7857 gallons of fuel @ say $3.50 average per gallon = $27,500 in fuel. And if I'm getting 20% better fuel economy then I would have spent $33,000 in fuel with a stock truck. So the $1500 or so I paid for my upgrades looks like a pretty good deal to me. Of course the math only works if you keep your vehicle a long time.
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