Inexpensive upgrade to 140 amp large case alternator - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 01-14-2012, 10:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Inexpensive upgrade to 140 amp large case alternator

I was in need of a new alternator for my 00 excursion. I wanted to upgrade to the 140 amp alternator but didnt want to give $300 online. I ordered a 140 amp large case alternator from advance auto parts after searching under a 2005 f550 6.0l. Its a rebuilt worlwide unit but comes with a lifetime warranty so if it goes out you get a free replacement. Using coupon code VISA for $50 off $150 got it for $105 plus tax and core. Had it shipped and they accepted my old alternator for the core at my local store. I put it on yesterday and its working fine. The plug is in a different location on the back but there was enough salck in the harness there was no issue, plugged right in. The larger case was hitting the bracket on the bottom so I used a 1/2 lock washer as a spacer under each bolt to gain clearence. So far so good, figured its a good alternative to giving $300 for the larger case 140 amp unit, plus free lifetime replacement is always good.




clearance under alternator with spacers


wiring is in different location but plug is identical and works



Last edited by tacurt; 01-14-2012 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would do three things.....

1. Remove the three frame screws and clock the frames correctly.

2. Replace the pulley with one the same size as the OE alternator.

3. Grind the mounting bracket for clearance.
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I would do three things.....

1. Remove the three frame screws and clock the frames correctly.

2. Replace the pulley with one the same size as the OE alternator.

3. Grind the mounting bracket for clearance.
tacurt; Nice write up and great with photos. Photos are so much better than a sounds like this, smells like that description. Seems like you made a good mod and saved some money. That warranty is a selling point also.

444-4D - Why would you make the three changes you noted?
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm not 444-4D, but I'm bored.

It's normal in the service industry to remove those bolts and turn the back of the alt case to get the terminals lined up to the stock position as to not stress the wiring. Even if the wire attachments fit it's just a better practice to set the alternator where they should be.

It's hard to tell in that picture due to the differences in design if those pulleys are the same diameter. There are a lot of situations where we find a higher output pulley being smaller in diameter to achieve higher outputs. In this case I thought the pulley looked bigger, slowing the alternator rpms and therefore lower amps at low speeds.

I manipulated the photo and I'm not sure if the size is different (see below).

Me, I wouldn't have a problem using flat washers as spacers, but I would not care for split washers being used. -4D may be trying to get back to the stock position, but I'll let him explain his reasoning.
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Inexpensive upgrade to 140 amp large case alternator-alt.jpg  
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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FMTRVT; I can see what is meant by clocking it now, thanks. Does that change any internal adjustment significantly like the rotor to stator air gap? I have never clocked one like that but now can see why if might be done to align the wiring.

I also can't tell from the photo if the old and new pulleys are the same OS diameter. I would be more worried about putting a smaller one on and speeding it up at all engine speeds. If the new alternator is rated for X then there is no reason to believe it needs more speed and achieve a 1X multiple, that might even be a problem.

Washers as shims and spacers, pretty common. I also wouldn't use a split or lock washer. Lock washers are the fastener industries joke on us anyway. If it is loose it's loose and a lock washer won't tighten up anything. They often break, so I throw them away and torque bolts and use the correct grade and thickness of flat washer.

That height issue might be important, probably not, wonder what it did to the belt tensioner position.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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444-4D - Why would you make the three changes you noted?
1. Stuff always fits better if it is configured correctly.

2. His OE pulley is probably 5mm smaller than the replacement alternator. If his desire is a higher output alternator, using the OE pulley will help him out.

3. So it won't look like some hack has been under the hood.

BTW, I installed large case 6g alternators on my truck a couple of years ago.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I agree with using a regular washer instead of the lock washer, I went with what I had on hand that was the size I needed and will probably replace them at some point. As you can see there is no stress on any of the wiring and would be afraid pf screwing something up if I removed the back of the case. Weight the options, leave it as it is and the wiring is fine, remove the back and risk screwing something up just to place the wires in the stock position. Doesnt seem worth the risk. If there was any difference in the pullies it was very small. I had no problem getting the belt back on. I just thought I would share this with anyone needing an alternator. I know some people wont like the idea of but some might.
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:00 AM   #8 (permalink)
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On that alternator you wouldn't remove the back frame. You would remove the pulley, remove the three frame screws, slip the front frame forward and turn it.
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Oneof6,

Clocking doesn't change any internal specs. You can also think of it as keeping the back of the case with the electronics in one position and clocking the main part of the case. A normal procedure for 50 years.

The split lock washers aren't there to provide spring pressure, but the raised "tooth" is supposed to bite into the nut and the base material to prevent it from turning or backing off. They do work well when they are made correctly which you can see after removal as they would have shaved off nut or parent material during the removal. But there are so many out there that are not heat treated correctly, made of the correct material, or the split is made not at the proper angle or edge to provide good bite.

There are much better modern methods, but I think they have their purpose in applications were bolt stretch cannot be achieved long term (wood; tube bolt through connections, etc) and it's not expected that the consumer would have access to or desire to work with nylon lock nuts or interference nuts, and just get the barbecue built. Although they have a long history and if you work on vehicles from the 50's and earlier you can even find them on main cap bolts.

I think the tensioner is fine with the 3/16" rise.
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:13 AM   #10 (permalink)
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tacurt,

If you've never clocked an alt I can understand your concern. The thing to do is keep the armature against the back case and rotate the front case for a better description.

Good post on what you found and understand what / why you did what you did - not knocking you down. We are just trying to share our years of experience and what mechanics would do.
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:56 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The thing to do is keep the armature against the back case and rotate the front case for a better description.
Keeping the rotor against the back of the case is easy on a 6g alternator. Unlike many of the old alternators that would fall apart, it almost takes Divine Intervention to get the rear bearing out of the tolerance ring.
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Haven't actually played with a 6G, just a whole lot of 40amp 65-66 Mustangs.
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Old 01-19-2012, 06:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I did the same think a month or so back. I used a NAPA unit, item #RAY 133169. It too was rated at 140 amps, but I didn't notice any contact between the housing, the connections were slightly different locations, but only slightly, and I didn't bother to check the pulley.
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I just got my alternator in - ordered from advanced auto online as well. I swapped the pulleys and used lock washers on mine as well - not for the lock washer reason, just as spacers to clear the bracket. Clocking the alternator was simple, just pop off the pulley and rotate the front as mentioned earlier in the thread.

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Old 01-25-2012, 12:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for measuring that.

So Ed was right, they reduce the alternator rpms by 7.3% with the new pulley.
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