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Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 12-22-2012, 02:59 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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No problem. I love the help, Justin.
No problem. Feel free to contact me if you ever have any questions.
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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No problem. Feel free to contact me if you ever have any questions.
Well, if you have any input on the modifications I listed above (good and bad), I'd love to read it!

I'm honestly enjoying this truck rather thoroughly. I'm a pretty tall/broad guy (6'2" and 265lbs), and it "fits" me rather comfortably.
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:30 PM   #18 (permalink)
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If your looking to go green then WVO might work but if your looking for reliability and power tuners I'd stay away from it like people said. Even filtered its still greasy and gels up if it gets cold etc. Just too likely to gum up the system IMO. That 7.3l is an awesome engine so why risk it with and alternative fuel. Also most power adders/tuners aren't necessarily designed to work with it. Definitely check with them first your you might really screw up the engine. If your looking for clean power a methanol or propane system might be a better set up.


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Old 01-02-2013, 12:13 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'll be looking at this thread in the future. I'm looking for a tuner as well for my F-450, which, I think, starts out de-tuned from the factory.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:29 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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I'll be looking at this thread in the future. I'm looking for a tuner as well for my F-450, which, I think, starts out de-tuned from the factory.
Some tunes will definitely help wake the truck up.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:37 PM   #21 (permalink)
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About the CCV mod thing. I know I did it and thought it was great at first and all but regardless of what others say I swear it was the last straw on the proverbial camel's back that started my oil seals leaking. I hate even bring it up because there are some pretty strong opinions about it. Buy my 2 cents worth is that if I was to do it all over again...I wouldn't. I'd just leave it the way it is and not worry about it. That money could go towards a lot more important and NEEDED items. Like the AIS filter system. That's money well spent....just don't get talked into the fender sleeve kit (it didn't gain me anything and I still had to do other mods to the front snorkel tube (like removing it completely) in order to get max airflow under full throttle conditions. Good luck and welcome!

PS Any 7.3 with under 100K is just barely broken in :-) You should be good to go for a long time if you take good care of it.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:30 PM   #22 (permalink)
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WVO works good on my 90 F250 with the golden fuel system but not sure how well it works on your truck which is newer. I would only recommend doing it if you have an easy and reliable source for oil like knowing someone who owns a restaurant that goes through a lot of oil. The Golden Fuel System is great and they are very helpful with install/trouble shooting advice but their video is outdated in terms of how easy it is to get oil. It used to be easy when restaurants needed to pay to get rid of it. Now people are paying the restaurants so they can use the oil to make biodiesel and sell it. It is great not to have to pay for fuel but it is a lot of work to put the system on/ keep finding free cooking oil and trouble shoot when something goes wrong.
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:51 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Well, I took delivery on a Diamond Eye 4" turbo back stainless exhaust, Ford AIS intake, CCV mod, and the DieselSite coolant filter. I also got the truck's little amount of rust replaced and painted.

I also through a Sony XAV-64BT in for a headunit and 4x Alpine speakers to make the stereo sound a little better. I'll probably throw a small sub in to round out the audio, though.

Next on the list of to-do's will probably be the Line-X and re-working all of the wiring that's in the engine bay and in the cab (there's a little bit of a wiring mess from the previous owner). I'm thinking a neat way to group up some of the added fuses and wiring, would be to go junkyard roaming for an additional fuse box. That way, it'll look somewhat "factory" and be able to house additional fuses for future additions. All the trailer wiring will probably go through it, as well. Something else I'm going to probably invest in, will be a back-up siren. I was backing out of a parking spot in town the other night, when some drunk people came out of nowhere and blithely walked behind the truck. Good thing I've got good reactions, and I stopped before hitting them. I did put a Broadway 400mm rear-view mirror on, as well. That helps a ton with the blind spots.
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:08 AM   #24 (permalink)
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tuneing is the way

to get all that metal down the road , and enjoy every minute of it . we havn't used the stock tune , ever since the introduction to the deisel aftermarket tuneing . thats all we got our truck for too , was to haul the car . its been my daily , since we got it . this site hooked us up with the answers to make it work best . couldnt imagine , wouldnt try , doing anything to truck without it . someday we mite even have a turbo diesel chevelle , if it was up to the kid , it would already be in fabrication . congrats , on your find . looks like a real jewel .
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:30 PM   #25 (permalink)
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No problem. Feel free to contact me if you ever have any questions.
I dropped you an email with hopes to purchase an Infinity in the near future.
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:15 PM   #26 (permalink)
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How heavy do you plan on towing? I have the 40 tow and the 80 tow and find that most of my towing is done in the 80hp tow setting. I usually tow a skid steer on a flatbed gooseneck with a GCWR of about 19,000 lbs.

The 40 hp tow is noticeable but the 80 is where it's at. Even with the hilly terrain in my neck of Colorado, I rarely have to back out of it.

I think the 20hp tow setting might be a little low for you. I would go with the 40hp at a minimum.
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:51 PM   #27 (permalink)
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ToyoMatt84...

If your project goal is similar to your project title "Reliable Hauler", and if you are pulling people out of the snow (meaning you might live where it gets cold enough for fuel to gel), then consider scratching the Hutch mod off of your to do list.
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:31 PM   #28 (permalink)
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How heavy do you plan on towing? I have the 40 tow and the 80 tow and find that most of my towing is done in the 80hp tow setting. I usually tow a skid steer on a flatbed gooseneck with a GCWR of about 19,000 lbs.

The 40 hp tow is noticeable but the 80 is where it's at. Even with the hilly terrain in my neck of Colorado, I rarely have to back out of it.

I think the 20hp tow setting might be a little low for you. I would go with the 40hp at a minimum.
I was simply going by what DP listed on their site for weight recommendations. As I'd rather not have to replace the transmission sooner then expected, I would think 20hp is more then sufficient. I towed the track car down to Kentucky and back without a single issue, on the stock tune. So a little extra umph will be more then enough to make me happy.


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ToyoMatt84...

If your project goal is similar to your project title "Reliable Hauler", and if you are pulling people out of the snow (meaning you might live where it gets cold enough for fuel to gel), then consider scratching the Hutch mod off of your to do list.
I agree. I simply haven't had the time to drop the tank and do what I need to... nor do I have a warm place to do anything to the truck right now. I'm dying for Spring, that is for sure. The new house will give me PLENTY of space to perform any work desired, without requiring me to do it in the driveway. So, I'm anxious as could be.

I will be taking care of the fueling system, though. I appreciate the input, as well.


I did manage to get something done in this brutal cold weather (right now its -11 F outside). I picked up a MOMO steering hub and Nardi 350mm Deep Corn leather wheel.



I had to cut off, machine, drill, and tap new mounting holes in the MOMO hub because the original height of the hub placed the steering wheel far too close to the driver. Luckily, that's easy stuff for me.

Here's a before shot, to showcase the difference in height:




I would post up the modified 2010 front air dam I made for the truck, but a few weeks ago... it broke when I slightly nudged a snowbank. It was -22 F (-55 Windchill), so I'm guessing the urethane was pretty much solid and brittle at that point.
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:48 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Looking back through here... I seemed to have missed a bunch.

I'll get this set straight!


I hated the abused rear bumper, so I upgraded to a 2008+ rear bumper. I also put a 4" DiamondEye stainless turbo-back with muffler, exhaust setup on the truck. With that came the Ford AIS intake system. And, upgraded the shocks a bit (since the stock ones were actually rusted so bad you could see the wall bulge on one of them when compressing the valve). Also had to replace the balljoints up front, so I figured I'd replace the wheel bearings, seals, and the brake lines as well. I also got Line-X for the bed, and a folding aluminum tonneau cover.
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:45 PM   #30 (permalink)
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The 40 hp tow is noticeable but the 80 is where it's at. Even with the hilly terrain in my neck of Colorado, I rarely have to back out of it.
I have 40T and a 80T from DP...I'm 20k combined...80T is where it's at.....don't even have to drive around the EGT.
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