So if the exhaust side is left stock, it's not a mismatch with the larger compressor side?
I was searching for ported compressor housings and just ran across this...seems like I could kill 2 birds with one stone.
It should work good for stock injectors too. I know someone running it and the stock .84 ex housing and it spools quick and egts are lower. He has 160/100 injectors.
The smaller exhaust housing will help it spool faster.
I personally would get the billet wheel one. I imagine the wheel is lighter than the cast wheel and better designed.
If you just want to fix surge you can get a stock size billet compressor wheel.
Riffraff, BD, ww2 they all fix surge And give a small bump in performance.
I've been looking at the same kit with the billet wheel, has anyone bought and installed it? Any installation issues?
I get the impression that it's a bolt on kit with no modifications needed?
Don't know about turbo kit (actuator) but generally, OEM actuators are are only good enough to handle stock boost levels. If you’re planning on tuning your engine and increasing the turbo boost level, then you’ll need to think about replacing your actuator with a bigger, higher performance model that’s designed to handle the increase in pressure.
So what's the scoop on this? Should this billet kit make more boost leaving the actuator alone?
Is there a boost correlation to how much of the rod is shortened?
I am hoping for more than the 20 psi I was getting before...
I just run stock turbo with the WW2 with the stock actuator tight as it can get and pushing close to 35 psi. also have the 360* trust bearing kit. IMO I would get the GTP38r or KC38r before starting to add porting housing on the stock one. 360* trust bearing kit is good but would it handle ported housing with upgraded wheel?
If I remember its not recommended with the stock turbo to push more than 25psi, not sure how much psi it is recommended with 360* kit but I wouldn't expect to be more than 30-35psi. JMO
Okay guys...I'm in the process of removing my turbo but the downpipe clamp is stuck. The screw is loose and one section is free, but the rest won't budge. I did spray it with liquid wrench last night.
Any tip or tricks to free this up?
Well after searching, I'm going to whack the DP from below and hope it comes loose...
The BFM (rubber mallet) worked to loosen the clamp and then again to separate the pipe. And it felt good to whack on it so hard too
Turbo is apart and getting cleaned to send rotating assy off for balancing...
I think you are right on this, seems to be quicker off the line and more noticeable below 2000 rpm. Won't tow for at least a month to see the anti-surge benefit.
I might tighten the rod some more as it was installed without pre-tension.
Good news. Got this mod installed and truck is running again today. Couldn't get enough load on it to see max boost though. It sounds a little bit louder, but in a good way.
As for the kit, not everything was plug and play. Had to enlarge some holes and trim the new 4" fresh air hose.
Can't wait to tow and not have surge, which was the main point of this. Also hoping for lower EGTs as I also gutted the EBPV and plugged those oil passages. If I get more power then...bonus.
I did have the wheel assy balanced. Took it all apart by myself but had my pro-mech bro-in-law put it back together cause he's much better at it than me.
It did spin about twice as much by hand compared to the 120k mile stock rotating assy.
BTW, the stock wheel weighs less than the new billet one, which has more blades.
Update;
So I still haven't towed yet, but I do notice a 50* increase in egt at 75 mph. I was surprised since I also deleted the EBPV and hoped for lower egts…
The only other difference is that I had a tee between the red waste gate actuator tube and the actuator before the swap. I assumed the tee would prevent early opening of the waste gate by leaking pressure to it.
Since I haven't really loaded it up yet by towing, I don't know what my max boost is.
Hope to tow next week.
Update; towed my 8k lb trailer this week and found that yes, the egts are higher by 100-200*, but not such that I’m over 1250 very often. Boost is up ~15% to 22 psi at times. It seems to like lower rpms compared to stock, which keeps me at 70 mph at 1900 rpm. There was no surging at all.
Curious if there is a way to lower egts to what they used to be? I'm in the 1100+ range a lot more than I used to be.
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The Diesel Stop
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