Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L EngineUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Just a few stupid questions for ya. I've tried the red line disconnect from the waste gate!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] man, talk about uncontrollable boost. I was afraid to really lay into it in fear of destroying my trubo, I was getting 30+ psi of boost at 1/2 trottle [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] Now for the question. If I were to put a valve in the red line and bleed off some of the vacume to control the amount the wastegate opened and set it around 21-23 psi would that work? is this what you call a turbo tube?
does this have any draw backs... good, bad, indifferant??? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
The max I can get from my SP stage I is 17-19 in 1st and 2nd 20 psi in 3rd WOT then drops on its face in 4th
Thanks for the help guys
Big E
__________________
Big E and family of Three
2002 F250 4X4 CREW CAB PSD 4" LIFT
4" turbo back exhaust*custom tymar*DP tunes*Polished ATS housing*6.0 intercooler*Chromed intercooler pipes*DC Power Inc. 190 amp
Alternator*Dieselsite boots*203 thermostat*40K Trucool*tugger kit*tripple TC*Manual TC lock-up*EBPV brake*AIH delete*boost Annihilator*Custom CCV*ITP/KCM (HPX)*Coolant filter*08 diff cover*DI fuel shim kit .055 @68 psi*engine mounted fuel gauge*custom engine cover*triple gauge*((XM))
2004 Keystone Sprinter 297fwbhs 5th wheel
with most of the goodies
Falling on its face sounds like an overboost code. Get a map line valve or get the electronic resistor version that t-taps the map wire, or a comparable boost fooler device for the map sensor to keep it from setting a code, as you are right in the area where you could be setting one.
As for boost control. That is the sole function of the wastegate. If you honestly want to control it, just adjust it with the hard linkage rod that goes from the actuator(thing the red line attaches to) to the arm on the wastegate that exits the exhaust housing toward the truck cowl. You can adjust this rod for the exact boost you want, assuming you don't put so much fuel to it that it can't physically let enough bypass the housing and the boost builds higher anyway. Or if you don't have enough fuel to get the boost you want. But neither of these apply to you with stock injectors. Just adjust the rod for the boost you want and leave the wastegate functional.
BTW, if you do go above 30lbs enough you WILL take out that turbo. So be forewarned.
If you need more detail on the adjustment do a search.
I know some posts have even included part#'s for the little clips on the rod.
[ QUOTE ]
Falling on its face sounds like an overboost code. Get a map line valve or get the electronic resistor version that t-taps the map wire, or a comparable boost fooler device for the map sensor to keep it from setting a code, as you are right in the area where you could be setting one.
As for boost control. That is the sole function of the wastegate. If you honestly want to control it, just adjust it with the hard linkage rod that goes from the actuator(thing the red line attaches to) to the arm on the wastegate that exits the exhaust housing toward the truck cowl. You can adjust this rod for the exact boost you want, assuming you don't put so much fuel to it that it can't physically let enough bypass the housing and the boost builds higher anyway. Or if you don't have enough fuel to get the boost you want. But neither of these apply to you with stock injectors. Just adjust the rod for the boost you want and leave the wastegate functional.
BTW, if you do go above 30lbs enough you WILL take out that turbo. So be forewarned.
If you need more detail on the adjustment do a search.
I know some posts have even included part#'s for the little clips on the rod.
Good Luck,
Charlie
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks for your reply Charlie,
I probably used the wrong words "falls on its face" the boost drops to around 11-15 psi in 4th. I do have the electronic map sensor gizmo from SP diesel but I do still throw a SES light once in while. I dont have a code reader yet but checking into them.
As for adjusting the rod, I've read some threads on it and it looks like a pain in the A** with the crimped rod and all. The bummer is that I just had it out 2 weeks ago for the WW. I should have done it then. I might just get back in there and do it [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
But could one just bleed off some vac from the wastegate or is this the wrong way of doing it??
Thanks again
Big E
__________________
Big E and family of Three
2002 F250 4X4 CREW CAB PSD 4" LIFT
4" turbo back exhaust*custom tymar*DP tunes*Polished ATS housing*6.0 intercooler*Chromed intercooler pipes*DC Power Inc. 190 amp
Alternator*Dieselsite boots*203 thermostat*40K Trucool*tugger kit*tripple TC*Manual TC lock-up*EBPV brake*AIH delete*boost Annihilator*Custom CCV*ITP/KCM (HPX)*Coolant filter*08 diff cover*DI fuel shim kit .055 @68 psi*engine mounted fuel gauge*custom engine cover*triple gauge*((XM))
2004 Keystone Sprinter 297fwbhs 5th wheel
with most of the goodies
black cloud sells a tube that extends off the wastegate with a brass piece inside my though of how it works is it resists the redline so that it takes longer to open the waste gate.. and then they also sell the map sensor boost relief not sure how well it works but its there
The red line is under boost just so you know. Once the boost starts to build in the red line it starts to counteract the spring in the wastegate actuator. This is what lets the wastegate blow open dependent upon boost.
Yes you can put a little "boost tube" inline to let some of the boost escape the red line and delay the opening of the wastegate as well as leave more holding force for the actuator for maximum boost. The "boost tube" just has an orfice that allows some of the boost in the red line to escape without acting on the actuator spring.
Do whatever you're comfortable with. The "boost tube" method would not be as clean or technically correct as actually adjusting the wastegate. But it's obviously easier.
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