Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L EngineUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Hey fellas,
So I have recently joined the diesel community, I purchased a 2001 7.3L with just over 90k miles. It has an upgraded turbo (having a buddy who is a diesel mechanic check the type and specs, along with injectors), K&N air filter, 4" down pipe and 4" all the way back.
I purchased a diesel because of the reliability, even though I know I will have to throw some work into it. I'm replacing the turbo pedestal right now due to having a killer leak but other than that it seems to be in killer shape. As I said, I'm having a buddy who is a trusted mechanic really check everything over to figure out where I'm standing with mods.
Anyways, I'm wanting to improve the acceleration and power in the truck. I'm looking into a few tuners with a multi-tune option. One for fuel economy and one for when I want to be able to have the power. After a tune, any other recommendations or any feedback at all would be much appreciated? Let me know. Thanks.
Last edited by EOMFD; 11-26-2012 at 07:16 PM.
Reason: correction
Get that K&N off of there asap! It's a killer! Lots of reports of that filter letting dust through, and dusting the turbo and engine. That may be why the turbo isn't original.
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2000 F-350 XLT 4x4 Crew cab long bed SRW island blue, 7.3 auto, 3.73's, TS Performance 6 pos tuner, 6637, 4" MBRP straight pipe, home made ccv mod, aih is gone, autometer gauges, tekonsha p3, Ats ported compressor housing, 6.0 cooler, coolant filter, Frx, hutch and harpoon, Go Rhino Dominator III bars, 70K as of 5/13, rebuilt title after totaled with only 12 miles, not by me.
I think this truck wouldn't cost me so much if I wasn't on this site all the time!
Get that K&N off of there asap! It's a killer! Lots of reports of that filter letting dust through, and dusting the turbo and engine. That may be why the turbo isn't original.
Okay, I'll look into other filters. Thanks for the feedback
I've been reading a lot about DIY intakes and a lot of preferred filters. If I were to pick up a different filter would it be smart to get different piping or will the K&N piping be suitable?
I like the Ford Extreme Duty air intake system. Flows fine and filters all the crap out. The next three things you will want are, in order, a 4" turbo-back exhaust, a set of real gauges so you don't toast your tranny or turbo, then a chip. That is pretty much what I did with my truck and it runs so much better than stock it's hard to believe.
2011 VW Jetta TDI 6-speed
1963 John Deere 4010 diesel
The Toys:
Rage'n 2930-5GLX fifth wheel toy hauler (GVWR 13.5K)
Circle J bumper pull horse trailer (rated for 3 but I take out the dividers and load 4)
4 horses of questionable parentage
Get a Tymar if you like to hear the turbo or the AIS if you don't..
You can't use the K&N piping..
Then get guages and a TS chip with custom tunes..
PM me if I can help.
cary
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I specialize in performance and suspension mods.
We developed the Reverse Shackle SD spring swaps for D60 '85-04 and D60 '05 up axle swap with suspension for the OBS.
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I agree, the K&N is not adequate. Get it out and get yourself a better intake. The Ford AIS is good as well as the Pro-Guard 7 intakes from AFE. S&B also makes some good intakes as well. After that, I'd say gauges. If you have questions on that let me know. We are known for our factory matched gauge kits. Prices are going up in a month on our kits, so keep that in mind.
A Good 4" Turbo Back exhaust will allow the motor to run a little cooler so you can install a "chip"/tuner on there to get your mileage up a bit. There are a lot to choose from, so if you want to talk to someone about that also, give me a push. I'm sure that someone else will chime in about that product line. Basic questions you want to ask yourself are, do you want the ability to change HP on the fly, or just set it with a hand-held programmer and leave it there.
Welcome to the TDS !!!
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All good advise.. for now, to see where you wanna go. I would...... If the stock muffler is on, get rid of it, straight pipe it or put a walker btm on it. Buy a napa 6637 filter and find a scrap 4" piece of pipe to connect it. Then see how your doing, then buy a 'chip'.. If you want more after that there are many options/decisions....
OH YEA. welcome EOMFD.. ps. you can 'PM' (private message) peeps to get a little further information.. sometimes $$$$ for a simple nthing isnt worth it lol! Ya heard!
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2000 7.3 Extended Cab Long Bed Lariat...
nothing crazy, it carries alot of weight, it tows alot.. has all the 'usual' upgrades plus some..
All good advise.. for now, to see where you wanna go. I would...... If the stock muffler is on, get rid of it, straight pipe it or put a walker btm on it. Buy a napa 6637 filter and find a scrap 4" piece of pipe to connect it. Then see how your doing, then buy a 'chip'.. If you want more after that there are many options/decisions....
OH YEA. welcome EOMFD.. ps. you can 'PM' (private message) peeps to get a little further information.. sometimes $$$$ for a simple nthing isnt worth it lol! Ya heard!
Ain't it like $60 from Napa? I buy mine from RiffRaff. I think you're just reffering to the brand, just making sure the OP knows they are available elseware for better prices...and site sponsor IIRC.
If you straight pipe, keep the CAT if its on it. Don't forget gauges or you be replacing parts sooner than you wish.
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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
I like the Ford Extreme Duty air intake system. Flows fine and filters all the crap out. The next three things you will want are, in order, a 4" turbo-back exhaust, a set of real gauges so you don't toast your tranny or turbo, then a chip. That is pretty much what I did with my truck and it runs so much better than stock it's hard to believe.
This is exactly how I built my 2000. I have the MBRP 4" SS exhaust, the Ford AIS intake, a DP Tuner 80hp econo tune, and ISS gauges. In addition, I have a huge transmission cooler, and run 35" tires with stock gearing.
The biggest thing over stock with this combination is the throttle response, it was such a dog off the line in stock trim, especially with the oversized tires. I tow usually about 6000lbs, so nothing too massive, and as long as I keep my eye on the EGT's it's fine. The steepest grades will spike the EGT's, but if I just slow down to 55 or so and drop it into 3rd it's fine.
I've got 220,000 miles on my truck and it's been in this modded condition since 80k, so I wouldn't worry about it affecting durability.
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2000 XLT, 4x4, SC, SB, Snugtop Shell, 4" lift
4" MBRP, ISS Pro Gauges, 80hp DP-Tuner flash,
AIS w/Zoodad, 315-16's, AIH delte (boost sensor port), coolant filter.
Bangin' stereo, Randy Ellis light bar, 4-130w lights, Airbag
I use the Motorcraft FA1750 filter in my stock housing. It is twice as thick as the FA1680 which came stock. As long as your top is tight and seals correctly, this is a good filter. If you drive in dusty environments, the AIS, or Donaldson, is the only way to go. The changeover kit is right under $200 and each filter is around $50. (The 1750 is less than $20.) The filters that pull the air under the hood (exposed element) are not as good as the 2 setups above. The OEM setups (1750 and AIS) pull air from the front outside of the truck therefore they utilize cooler air than the exposed under the hood units.
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2001 F-250 4X4 CC SB 7.3 4R100 3.73, BFGoodrich All-Terrain TA/KO, Motorcraft filters, Mile Marker manual hub locks w/ESOF (No hub "floating"), AIH delete, Rust-Oleum bed coating, Silverstar Ultra headlamps w/ clear headlight assemblies, 5,000K LED interior lamps; Moog greaseable u-joints, ball-joints, front hub assemblies; retractable bed hitch, original black CPS (BEST "mod" I have), Energy Suspension bushings, Red Heavy Duty ELC, Edge Evolution 15001 (for gauges), Walker BTM, Donaldson AIS
what is AIH delete , and other abreviated parts ? MBPR , etc . i want to do upgrades to my truck , and need to learn what they are first , and which ones are a must have . any help greatly apreciated !
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2000 F250 PSD 7.3 CCLB A/T wrecked by red light runner 2/16/13 & still not fixed ... but its looking like the good hands are gona give it a shot . still cant believe there putting a new frame under it . it looks like a bomb went off in that body shop . theres truck pieces parts everywhere . . .
AIH delete - the Air Intake Heater is in the front of the spider (dead center rear where all the turbo pipes converge) and is used to warm the air in very rare conditions (think Alaska). Deleting it gets rid of one solenoid on top of the motor and removes a restriction to air flow. You can buy a plug to go in the remaining orifice - Riffraff Diesel: RDP AIH Delete Plug You could also put your boost gauge tap there.
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2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
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