1999-2007 Upgrades and Aftermarket - GeneralUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-2007 Super Duty. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are not engine-specific.
I've been looking for a while, and am now thinking of buying the air system. Looking at Viair 380C compresser, 2.5 gallon tank, stutter tone air horn, and 2 air bags for the rear suspension.
I want to use a seperate button for the air horn (not use the factory horn button). Would I still need to wire a soelinoid? I've done a lot of work wiring car accessories, but never had to use a relay or solinoid. Not sure what it accomplishes actually...
Anyway, wondering what the easiest way to do it is. I did see the hadley twin and onboard compresser posts, but was looking for more into. I'm assuming a fused power and ground to compresser, the exhaust line from compresser to the air tank, and then 2 lines off the tank, one for air bags and one for horn?
Does the solinoid control the air flow? Does it attach to the tank itself, then the air line to that? Also, how would I control the air bags filling?
Also, what does the pressure switch actually do?
Sorry for all the questions, but after reading over the install, I realized I know less about this than I thought.
I bought a viair air compressor kit at four wheel parts has a automatic pressure switch shut off when it hits i believe 150psi and comes on at 130psi (not sure) with this you don't need any relays the relays are in this device, and the kit comes with the wire you'll need (i used a bit more than provided), switch/tank P.S.I gauge cluster, tubing , and fittings and a coiled air hose with shrader valve connection. The compressor is great, would like it to be a bit quicker but i've run that thing through water, heat, everything and its still pumping strong. I highly suggest you get this kit to start off with as an onboard air system. However i do HATE the pressure switch, i've gone through two since i've owned my system its just crap.
The airspring set up i would say you should go with a prefabbed wiring harness with solenoids.
such as this type of kit
if you try to do all this stuff from scratch it's just unnecessary headache. If you cant get one WITHOUT the pump included just plumb the compressor into the air tank and use it as a backup pump or in tangent with the viair for quicker refills.
As for the horns i have a train horn setup which i got a solenoid with the kit but you can buy it separately here
little bit pricey and you may be able to find one for cheaper but this is just for examples. And what i did was just screwed one wire into the ground and the ran a wire to a basic push button switch in the cab (this push button does not need to be heavy duty unless your planning on having it stuck open for a long time) then i ran the wire to the battery with a 5amp fuse on it. EASY
__________________ 2000 Ford F-250 (4x2) XLT extended cab long bed, TS Performance 6 pos. Chip (Stock, High Idle, 50, 75, 100, 140 extreme), Turbo Master Wastegate Controller, ATS Housing, AEM Brute Force dry filter, MBRP Stainless Trubo Back exhaust 4in., Gauges (EGT, Air Tank P.S.I, Boost), High Pressure Oil Crossover, 60gal. aux. tank/toolbox combo, bedliner, Uniden CB w/ 15 watt PA, ViaAir air compressor and 1.5 gal tank, train horn, Pioneer head unit w/ jensen speakers, after market stock ford running lights, 33in. Nitto tires
I've been looking for a while, and am now thinking of buying the air system. Looking at Viair 380C compresser, 2.5 gallon tank, stutter tone air horn, and 2 air bags for the rear suspension.
I want to use a seperate button for the air horn (not use the factory horn button). Would I still need to wire a soelinoid? I've done a lot of work wiring car accessories, but never had to use a relay or solinoid. Not sure what it accomplishes actually...
Anyway, wondering what the easiest way to do it is. I did see the hadley twin and onboard compresser posts, but was looking for more into. I'm assuming a fused power and ground to compresser, the exhaust line from compresser to the air tank, and then 2 lines off the tank, one for air bags and one for horn?
Does the solinoid control the air flow? Does it attach to the tank itself, then the air line to that? Also, how would I control the air bags filling?
Also, what does the pressure switch actually do?
Sorry for all the questions, but after reading over the install, I realized I know less about this than I thought.
You will need at least 3 valves. People often refer to Electric solenoid operated valves as "Solenoids", But what your thinking of is the actual solenoid or a heavy duty relay.
You will need to have 1 valve that will go between the air tank and the air horn. That way when you push your button it will open the valve and allow for the air to flow from the tank to the horn.
The other two you will use to put air into the rear bags and take the air out of the rear bags. You can do it with 2 by linking the bags together, or you can use 4 of them and isolate out each bag. If your load isn't too uneven (say a all the weight on one side) linking them together is fine.
What the pressure switch will do is turn on the compressor (must use relay, PSI switch can't handle the full compressor load) when it drops below the "on" pressure on the switch. Then once it reaches the off pressure it will turn off the compressor. That is usually mounted into the tank.
Thanks for the info guys. I think I might add the air bags later, and just do the horn for now, since the bags are closer to $300 for 2 with no drill mounting clamps and all fittings.
Would adding a relay to the horn setup help the pressure switch last longer? I have heard of people going thru those a lot... I'm not too familiar with relay wiring, but I know it's not rocket science.
If I decide to add the air bags later, do I just need one extra outlet one the tank? I'd run an air line out of it to another solenoid (which would be wired to the gauge/switch that comes with bags) and then run air line from there to bags? Do you use a "y" to go to the bags, or somehow can you piggyback them? Also, the I run another switch to another solenoid which would allow you to let air out of them? Does that line vent to aptmosphere or back to tank? Thanks!
Yes you will have to have a solenoid (or two depending on how you want to fill the bags) to fill the bags and the same number to deflate the bags. All that is so you can control them from the cab. To deflate the bags it just vents to the atmosphere. As "Universal Air" says you can link the bags together with one solenoid to fill them with air and another to deflate them. The deflation solenoid needs to be on the air bag side of the infation solenoid. For the air horn get one solenoid and just wire it into the switch of your choice. The current is not that high to operate them.
__________________ 2002 F250 7.3 4X4 Super Crew Short Bed. Gloshift Gauges (volts, boost, EGT's) Scan Gauge, 3 Recon Big Rig Lights (front and sides), Line of Fire, Super Chips, 5" Diamond Eye Exhaust with 6" Chrome Tip, TYMAR Air Filter, 05 Factory Tow Mirrors, B&W Companion 5th wheel hitch, Firestone Ride-Rite air bags, Line X, Custom Upfitter Switches, Peak backup camera, Motorola CM300 vhf radio, Cobra 29 CB, 285/75 R 16's, Ambulance air compressor, 24" Grover Air Horn, AIC, Commando Alarm with remote start, & Turbo Timer . Pullin' a 2011 Keystone Cougar 328qbss, or a 2011 Glastron GT205 Run-a-bout.
DW like's the diesel so much I had to buy her one.
The "Baby Diesel" 2004 VW Jetta TDI. It's nice but it ain't my truck
Do I need multiple outlets on the tank for this, or can I run a 2 or 3 way splitter off one outlet? Reason I'm asking is that it looks like ViAirs 2.5 gal tank has just 2 outputs. I'll want one for a drain, and that just leaves one main out. I figured if I used that tank, I could split that line 3 ways, into 1) horn, 2) air bags, 3) quick connect for tires. Does anyone make a splitter like that, or is that a good way to do it, or should I get a tank w more outputs?
Jtobbe - For the placement of the air bag solenoids, how should that go? From out of tank, to inflation solenoid, to deflation solenoid, to air bags? If so, would the inflation one wire to the gauge & switch that comes w the bags, and the deflation run to a seperate switch? Then just leave the inflation switch off and hit the deflation to leak pressure from bags?
Also, when joining 2 bags, are there "in & outs" on the bags? Meaning you run "in" to the first from the tank, and then run the "out" from the first to the "in" of the second? Or is there just an input, so I would have to use a 2 way splitter after the deflation valve?
Sorry so many questions, but you guys are really clearing this up for me!
Thanks for the info guys. I think I might add the air bags later, and just do the horn for now, since the bags are closer to $300 for 2 with no drill mounting clamps and all fittings.
Would adding a relay to the horn setup help the pressure switch last longer? I have heard of people going thru those a lot... I'm not too familiar with relay wiring, but I know it's not rocket science.
If I decide to add the air bags later, do I just need one extra outlet one the tank? I'd run an air line out of it to another solenoid (which would be wired to the gauge/switch that comes with bags) and then run air line from there to bags? Do you use a "y" to go to the bags, or somehow can you piggyback them? Also, the I run another switch to another solenoid which would allow you to let air out of them? Does that line vent to aptmosphere or back to tank? Thanks!
Yes running a relay for the compressor/psi switch will make it last longer. You can't run the high amps of the compressor through the psi switch. It will damage the contacts inside the switch over time.
To add the bags down the road, you would tee in before the air horn valve either inline or off the tank and run it over to the valves that control the bags. Usually for bags you will do a lift valve, pipe tee, nipple and dump valve all piped together like this:
Do I need multiple outlets on the tank for this, or can I run a 2 or 3 way splitter off one outlet? Reason I'm asking is that it looks like ViAirs 2.5 gal tank has just 2 outputs. I'll want one for a drain, and that just leaves one main out. I figured if I used that tank, I could split that line 3 ways, into 1) horn, 2) air bags, 3) quick connect for tires. Does anyone make a splitter like that, or is that a good way to do it, or should I get a tank w more outputs?
Jtobbe - For the placement of the air bag solenoids, how should that go? From out of tank, to inflation solenoid, to deflation solenoid, to air bags? If so, would the inflation one wire to the gauge & switch that comes w the bags, and the deflation run to a seperate switch? Then just leave the inflation switch off and hit the deflation to leak pressure from bags?
Also, when joining 2 bags, are there "in & outs" on the bags? Meaning you run "in" to the first from the tank, and then run the "out" from the first to the "in" of the second? Or is there just an input, so I would have to use a 2 way splitter after the deflation valve?
Sorry so many questions, but you guys are really clearing this up for me!
You can do Pipe T's off the ports, or Hose T's off the airline. I think this drawing might clear up some for you.
If you look at the drawing that "UniversalAir" has provided that is what I was talking about. The Slow down that they say is optional is on the deflation solenoids and I would say it is just a reducer to restrict the air so it does not dump so quickly.
__________________ 2002 F250 7.3 4X4 Super Crew Short Bed. Gloshift Gauges (volts, boost, EGT's) Scan Gauge, 3 Recon Big Rig Lights (front and sides), Line of Fire, Super Chips, 5" Diamond Eye Exhaust with 6" Chrome Tip, TYMAR Air Filter, 05 Factory Tow Mirrors, B&W Companion 5th wheel hitch, Firestone Ride-Rite air bags, Line X, Custom Upfitter Switches, Peak backup camera, Motorola CM300 vhf radio, Cobra 29 CB, 285/75 R 16's, Ambulance air compressor, 24" Grover Air Horn, AIC, Commando Alarm with remote start, & Turbo Timer . Pullin' a 2011 Keystone Cougar 328qbss, or a 2011 Glastron GT205 Run-a-bout.
DW like's the diesel so much I had to buy her one.
The "Baby Diesel" 2004 VW Jetta TDI. It's nice but it ain't my truck
If the compresser is mounted under the truck, does it have to be enclosed? I've seen people install with and without a battery box or the like to protect it...
I'm sure it's not a bad idea in Michigan winters, but just wondered. THanks!
If the compresser is mounted under the truck, does it have to be enclosed? I've seen people install with and without a battery box or the like to protect it...
I'm sure it's not a bad idea in Michigan winters, but just wondered. THanks!
I personally have the compressor fully exposed to the elements, i've run that thing through some pretty nasty mud and high water multiple times with no problem but i have had problems with the pressure actuated relay if your going to protect anything protect that piece.
__________________ 2000 Ford F-250 (4x2) XLT extended cab long bed, TS Performance 6 pos. Chip (Stock, High Idle, 50, 75, 100, 140 extreme), Turbo Master Wastegate Controller, ATS Housing, AEM Brute Force dry filter, MBRP Stainless Trubo Back exhaust 4in., Gauges (EGT, Air Tank P.S.I, Boost), High Pressure Oil Crossover, 60gal. aux. tank/toolbox combo, bedliner, Uniden CB w/ 15 watt PA, ViaAir air compressor and 1.5 gal tank, train horn, Pioneer head unit w/ jensen speakers, after market stock ford running lights, 33in. Nitto tires
If the compresser is mounted under the truck, does it have to be enclosed? I've seen people install with and without a battery box or the like to protect it...
I'm sure it's not a bad idea in Michigan winters, but just wondered. THanks!
Alot of it depends on which compressor your going to run. If your going to run any of the Viair family of compressors they are water resistant (except the 500 & 550). They come with a remote mount filter so you can put the air intake where its not going to suck in water.
Now if your going to dunking them under water for extended periods of time i would suggest mounting them somewhere that will only be splashed.
It'll be under the frame rail. It won't be submerged ever, but with road water/salt from the tires hitting it, it will be exposed to the elements.
I'm talking to one other Excursion owner who put his inside the truck in the rear heater fan compartment. I'm trying to find out if it'll be too loud inside. If it is, then it'll go on the rail. I'm going w the 380C, how do I know if it's water resistant?
It'll be under the frame rail. It won't be submerged ever, but with road water/salt from the tires hitting it, it will be exposed to the elements.
I'm talking to one other Excursion owner who put his inside the truck in the rear heater fan compartment. I'm trying to find out if it'll be too loud inside. If it is, then it'll go on the rail. I'm going w the 380C, how do I know if it's water resistant?
Thanks!
It will be fine, just do the remote mount filter so it can suck clean air. The 380 is considered a "sealed" unit, so it can take spashing.
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) XLT extended cab long bed, TS Performance 6 pos. Chip (Stock, High Idle, 50, 75, 100, 140 extreme), Turbo Master Wastegate Controller, ATS Housing, AEM Brute Force dry filter, MBRP Stainless Trubo Back exhaust 4in., Gauges (EGT, Air Tank P.S.I, Boost), High Pressure Oil Crossover, 60gal. aux. tank/toolbox combo, bedliner, Uniden CB w/ 15 watt PA, ViaAir air compressor and 1.5 gal tank, train horn, Pioneer head unit w/ jensen speakers, after market stock ford running lights, 33in. Nitto tires
2002 F250 7.3 4X4 Super Crew Short Bed. Gloshift Gauges (volts, boost, EGT's) Scan Gauge, 3 Recon Big Rig Lights (front and sides), Line of Fire, Super Chips, 5" Diamond Eye Exhaust with 6" Chrome Tip, TYMAR Air Filter, 05 Factory Tow Mirrors, B&W Companion 5th wheel hitch, Firestone Ride-Rite air bags, Line X, Custom Upfitter Switches, Peak backup camera, Motorola CM300 vhf radio, Cobra 29 CB, 285/75 R 16's, Ambulance air compressor, 24" Grover Air Horn, AIC, Commando Alarm with remote start, & Turbo Timer . Pullin' a 2011 Keystone Cougar 328qbss, or a 2011 Glastron GT205 Run-a-bout.
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