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Bulletproofing my 2004 6.0L

3K views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  Nickellhead 
#1 ·
Hey guys sorry to keep going on this but I just bought me a 2004 6.0 with 65,000 miles. Had it a few days and now it went into the shop for a bad ICP. Now I have been looking on reviews about the motor and its scary. I am keeping my truck cause its nice so now its time to fix it all. What do I need to do to upgrade it all so that the issues don't cost me down the road. I plan on putting on this so called bullet proofing system so what is all needed. I am not doing a EGR delete, adding a tuner, have gauges. the rest is pretty much stock engine wise. Please give me a list so I can have it all installed soon before it gets worse. Thanks for any help.
 
#2 ·
Oem gaskets with headstudes get head check by machine shop
New oil cooler if needed or go Ipr reloction or bulletproof oil cooler
Coolant filter Ipr has a great one
bullet proof egr
Blue spring up grade
Check ficm if need repair send it to ficmrepair.com
Fuel press gauge
Could do a bpd water pump
Clean turbo yll its out
Put some Rev x in ur oil
 
#3 ·
Make sure to get the heads machined while they are off the engine. They need to be checked for flatness and milled as needed so long as you do not reduce the thickness of the head as measured from valve cover rail to fire deck to less than 3.74". Check them for cracks via magnaflux too.

Do a coolant flush prior to doing any of the work. Refill the system with a 50/50 mix of a CAT EC-1 rated ELC and distilled water. Install a coolant filter, change it after one month, then after three months, then yearly. If there's nothing actively wrong with the engine I'd wait until after that three month change to do the work.

I see no reason to go to the BPD oil cooler system. IMO its over priced. The IPR system is better, but I still see no need. Once the coolant is flushed, the coolant upgraded to ELC, and the oil cooler replaced you should never have an issue again. The money spent on these systems can better be spent elsewhere on the engine/truck.

I would also advise against RevX. In tried some and had some bad idling as a result. I skipped it the next couple of oil changes and the problem went away. IMO, once you make the switch to a good synthetic 5W40 (I use Rotella T6) the oil system will be fine.

I'd greatly prefer an EGR delete. The only reason not to run one is if you live in CA and emissions are a concern. If that's the case go BPD cooler. IPR makes a really nice delete kit.

Replace the GP harnesses, obviously DPs and standpipes should be replaced, install exhaust manifold gaskets, and now is a good time to upgrade the turbo oil feed and drain lines too.
 
#4 ·
If you're keeping EGR cooler then you also need to yank the EGR valve and clean it too. And I'd rebuild the turbo. I done all of it myself and saved thousands! I deleted the EGR cooler though. The only regret is I didn't look the turbo over once I had everything torn apart and now I have to replace it because the bearings had worn out so much that it cracked the seal plate. Good luck with everything!
 
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