How to swap '05-'07 SuperDuty Front End to your '99-'04 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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1999-2007 Upgrades and Aftermarket - General Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-2007 Super Duty. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are not engine-specific.

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Old 12-31-2008, 02:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Lightbulb How to swap '05-'07 SuperDuty Front End to your '99-'04

[Scope]
This writeup will be a step by step guide to swapping the bumper, grill, headlights and header panel from a 2005 - 2007 SuperDuty to a 1999 - 2004 model to update the appearance. Other than some better headlight performance, this is an appearance modification only.

A more economical option is to watch for a take-off (as I did) used from another vehicle. Ebay and your local Craigslist are your friends.

[Other writeups]
There are pieces of writeups on this swap here and there and a search of this very forum will lead you to several of them. I don't claim this is original, only more thorough, I hope, than other write-ups and I hope even a complete newbie can follow this. Three examples I know of:

http://www.dfuser.com/docs/

It has begun... - Page 2 - F150online Forums

There is also a diesel mag short writeup out there, but nothing comprehensive.

[Other Options]
1. There are several eBay vendors and others who sell modified grills and lights with the '05 - '07 appearance that will bolt up to your '99 - '04 without modifying or swapping the header panel. You can read about these in this forum and several people already have written this up.

2. There are, similarly, diagrams for cutting your '99 - '04 header panel to make the '05 style headlights fit instead of swapping in the new header panel.

3. You will have to change out your headlight and turn signal connectors. There are vendors, such as GOS racing (Headlight Conversion Harness) and dfuser (http://www.dfuser.com/catalog/harness.php), that sell harnesses you can use for plug-and-play on the new headlights instead of soldering, as I did below.

Caveat: If your parts don't include the connectors, then I highly recommend one of these kits instead of going to the dealer - they will flat rape you on price for the headlight connectors. I regret I don't have the factory pigtail part numbers - mine were take-offs and used.


[How To]
1. Here is what we start with (apologies for the angle shot) - as you can see, I had already upgraded in the past to the 2003-style headlights.


2. Next, remove the old grill - 4 phillips screws on top and clips on the bottom. The second picture shows the bare clip so you can see how it inserts in the header panel.



3. See these dust shields directly under the turn signal? If your truck has these, you will need to modify them before installing the new lights. A Dremel or shears will work fine - we will come back to this step.


[Continued on next post]
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2000 F250 7.3L PSD 4x4: Zoodad; 6 Autometer Z-Series (A-pillar and under cubby); Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator Springs; Magnefine filter (tranny); Moog greaseable ball joints; AFE Stage 2 + PG7; DPP 4" SS Exhaust; Rhino-lined; '05-'07 Front End Retrofit; Pre-pump and tank mods; Victor Wood Steering Wheel; Excursion Limited Wood Console Lid; Excursion sound insulating panels; HuskyLiners; MAP line with overboost pop-off; 2003 Mirrors; 2007 PSD Badges; NFab 2-step Nerf Bars; DieselSite Baldwin Coolant Filter; Warn Premium Locking Hubs; Diesel Innovations 4-way chip; Purple Cranium Differential Guards; Superlift TruSpeed; 6" Edge Lift on 37's by Truck Toyz; Icon Vehicle Dynamics Reservoir shocks; Strictly Diesel Pre-Pump Filter Kit

Last edited by xanthias; 05-07-2011 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Exclamation Continued

4. Unbolt your old bumper - 4 bolts, 18mm. You will need to unplug the plastic "trees" holding your foglight harness and/or block heater harness if you have them. Note that if you have a bottom dust shield, it will have to be removed (more plastic trees). You can toss it, as it will not fit the new bumper, unless you are willing to drill.


5. Remove the top dust shield. You will likely break some of the plastic inserts doing so, so have some extras on hand. Be careful, or you will tear the shield - it can be reused.


6. Now, take a 5/16" socket and long extension. You may also need an end-wrench of the same size and remove the 8 bolts holding the header panel. If you have a temp sensor or block heater, you will need to pop out their plastic tree inserts from the header panel before you remove it. You can replace them at step 13.



[Continued on next post - limited to 4 images per post]
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2000 F250 7.3L PSD 4x4: Zoodad; 6 Autometer Z-Series (A-pillar and under cubby); Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator Springs; Magnefine filter (tranny); Moog greaseable ball joints; AFE Stage 2 + PG7; DPP 4" SS Exhaust; Rhino-lined; '05-'07 Front End Retrofit; Pre-pump and tank mods; Victor Wood Steering Wheel; Excursion Limited Wood Console Lid; Excursion sound insulating panels; HuskyLiners; MAP line with overboost pop-off; 2003 Mirrors; 2007 PSD Badges; NFab 2-step Nerf Bars; DieselSite Baldwin Coolant Filter; Warn Premium Locking Hubs; Diesel Innovations 4-way chip; Purple Cranium Differential Guards; Superlift TruSpeed; 6" Edge Lift on 37's by Truck Toyz; Icon Vehicle Dynamics Reservoir shocks; Strictly Diesel Pre-Pump Filter Kit

Last edited by xanthias; 12-31-2008 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Lightbulb Continued

7. Note that you do not have to remove the headlights or turn signals to pull the header panel. Simply disconnect the wiring connectors from the housings. It will be a tight squeeze getting your hand back there - helpful to lean the header panel forward to a 45-degree angle after you have it unbolted. However, before you can remove it, you will need to remove the plastic trees that attach the wind fairing, 3 per side.


8. At this point, you should have everything stripped and be staring at your bare AC condenser/radiator support/intercooler.

9. Here are the headlight (top pic, with new on left) and turn signal (bottom pic, with new on left) connectors you will be changing. Remember, I am soldering in these new connectors - if you use one of the harnesses above, you can skip these steps, follow the instructions that came with your harness and resume at step 13.



[Continued in next post]
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2000 F250 7.3L PSD 4x4: Zoodad; 6 Autometer Z-Series (A-pillar and under cubby); Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator Springs; Magnefine filter (tranny); Moog greaseable ball joints; AFE Stage 2 + PG7; DPP 4" SS Exhaust; Rhino-lined; '05-'07 Front End Retrofit; Pre-pump and tank mods; Victor Wood Steering Wheel; Excursion Limited Wood Console Lid; Excursion sound insulating panels; HuskyLiners; MAP line with overboost pop-off; 2003 Mirrors; 2007 PSD Badges; NFab 2-step Nerf Bars; DieselSite Baldwin Coolant Filter; Warn Premium Locking Hubs; Diesel Innovations 4-way chip; Purple Cranium Differential Guards; Superlift TruSpeed; 6" Edge Lift on 37's by Truck Toyz; Icon Vehicle Dynamics Reservoir shocks; Strictly Diesel Pre-Pump Filter Kit

Last edited by xanthias; 12-31-2008 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Exclamation Continued

10. Using solder and heat-shrink, cut off your old headlight connector and solder in the new one. Note that some of the dealership parts house replacements will NOT be color-coded on the wiring. With the plug oriented "up" - as it would be attached to the light - the harness on my 2000 was, left to right: green/black, black, green/red (zoom the pic).


11. This will be the final result. Prop the headlights up, plug them in and test them before you button it up like this.


12. Do the same process for the turn signal connectors. This one is done. Color coding, left to right, is: black, brown, green/red.


13. Install your new header panel, re-using the same 8 bolts from your old one - the holes will line right up. Reconnect any wind fairings you disconnected (3 plastic inserts per side in my case), the holes for the plastic inserts will be there.


[Continued on next post]
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2000 F250 7.3L PSD 4x4: Zoodad; 6 Autometer Z-Series (A-pillar and under cubby); Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator Springs; Magnefine filter (tranny); Moog greaseable ball joints; AFE Stage 2 + PG7; DPP 4" SS Exhaust; Rhino-lined; '05-'07 Front End Retrofit; Pre-pump and tank mods; Victor Wood Steering Wheel; Excursion Limited Wood Console Lid; Excursion sound insulating panels; HuskyLiners; MAP line with overboost pop-off; 2003 Mirrors; 2007 PSD Badges; NFab 2-step Nerf Bars; DieselSite Baldwin Coolant Filter; Warn Premium Locking Hubs; Diesel Innovations 4-way chip; Purple Cranium Differential Guards; Superlift TruSpeed; 6" Edge Lift on 37's by Truck Toyz; Icon Vehicle Dynamics Reservoir shocks; Strictly Diesel Pre-Pump Filter Kit

Last edited by xanthias; 12-31-2008 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Lightbulb Continued

14. Remember that plastic dust shield from step 3? You will need to trim them like this for your new headlights to snap in properly - they come equipped with their own. (Don't let this pic confuse you - it was taken after the new bumper was already on).


15. Plug up your new headlights. Note that the marker light connector is the same and will not have to be changed. Don't get ahead of yourself and try to put on the grill first. Your lights will bolt in with 2 7/32" bolts on the top and 2 more on the bottom, or you can reuse the 2 phillips screws from your old turn signals if you need to (remember, we did not have to take them off before removing the old header panel). Once your headlights are in, go ahead and snap in the grill - same deal as the old one, clips on the bottom and 4 phillips screws or 7/32" head screws on the top. You can snap your top dust shield back in now, too.


16. Your new bumper will bolt back up with the same 4 bolts as your old bumper. Do yourself a favor and leave the 4 bolts somewhat loose - you will want to be able to align the bumper after you have finished with the grill and lights so you can get your gaps looking right. If you have a block heater, you may need to drill a hole in your new header panel to use to insert the plastic tree to hold it in place, as the new bumper may not have the hole for it that was present on the old one (mine didn't - your mileage may vary).

Depending on the year model of your truck, these side brackets on the '05-'07 bumper may not fit and, if not, simply remove them.


[Continued in next post]
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2000 F250 7.3L PSD 4x4: Zoodad; 6 Autometer Z-Series (A-pillar and under cubby); Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator Springs; Magnefine filter (tranny); Moog greaseable ball joints; AFE Stage 2 + PG7; DPP 4" SS Exhaust; Rhino-lined; '05-'07 Front End Retrofit; Pre-pump and tank mods; Victor Wood Steering Wheel; Excursion Limited Wood Console Lid; Excursion sound insulating panels; HuskyLiners; MAP line with overboost pop-off; 2003 Mirrors; 2007 PSD Badges; NFab 2-step Nerf Bars; DieselSite Baldwin Coolant Filter; Warn Premium Locking Hubs; Diesel Innovations 4-way chip; Purple Cranium Differential Guards; Superlift TruSpeed; 6" Edge Lift on 37's by Truck Toyz; Icon Vehicle Dynamics Reservoir shocks; Strictly Diesel Pre-Pump Filter Kit

Last edited by xanthias; 12-31-2008 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Lightbulb Finale

17. In my lifted application with 37" tires, I have a clearance problem with the new valance. A Dremel solves this easily.



18. Take a few minutes and adjust the bumper position (you left the bolts loose, right?). You will have a bit of flexibility, both up and down and side to side, to get the gaps looking the way you want. Tighten the 4 mounting bolts and then stand back and admire your work (Feel free to do the Tom Hanks, "I have made fire!" dance from Castaway.) Note - you may have to paint-match the top bumper panel (I got lucky and mine matched).

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2000 F250 7.3L PSD 4x4: Zoodad; 6 Autometer Z-Series (A-pillar and under cubby); Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator Springs; Magnefine filter (tranny); Moog greaseable ball joints; AFE Stage 2 + PG7; DPP 4" SS Exhaust; Rhino-lined; '05-'07 Front End Retrofit; Pre-pump and tank mods; Victor Wood Steering Wheel; Excursion Limited Wood Console Lid; Excursion sound insulating panels; HuskyLiners; MAP line with overboost pop-off; 2003 Mirrors; 2007 PSD Badges; NFab 2-step Nerf Bars; DieselSite Baldwin Coolant Filter; Warn Premium Locking Hubs; Diesel Innovations 4-way chip; Purple Cranium Differential Guards; Superlift TruSpeed; 6" Edge Lift on 37's by Truck Toyz; Icon Vehicle Dynamics Reservoir shocks; Strictly Diesel Pre-Pump Filter Kit

Last edited by xanthias; 12-31-2008 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 01-05-2009, 08:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Wow - nice writeup and beautiful truck. The green/tan combo has always been one of my favorites. I did this swap about a year ago, and was so glad that I did.

This writeup will surely help others wanting to do the same.
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Old 01-23-2009, 03:04 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Great write up!

Hey that was a great write up! But I do have a couple questions. I'm a truck newbie, and just purchased an '03 F350, and I'm wanting to do the same conversion. I've already purchased the grill, lower valance, the chrome bumper, and the paint to match piece from my dealer. I have the headlights and wiring harness on the way. I didn't realize that a new header panel was needed for this swap, but I can order that in the next couple days.

Now on to my questions, that I hope you can help me with. Thank you in advance if you can. Are the dust shields in pic 3 not part of the header panel? And what exactly do you do to modify them, it's hard to see in the later pic? And what is the wind fairings that your talking about? And where are they connected to? And if the corner brackets from my stock bumper don't work with the new one, could I just buy the correct ones?

Thanks again. I'm anxiously waiting to get this done.
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Old 01-25-2009, 06:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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1. Dust shields - they are thin plastic and not part of the header panel. Your '03 may not even have them. They attach to the body with 2 plastic christmas trees. You can cut them with scissors, snips, dremel, whatever is handy.
2. Wind fairings - there are two or three: one on each side of the radiator and one (in my case) beneath the radiator. They are made of a fibrouos material similar to your hood insulator. They attach with yet more christmas trees. The ones on either side of the radiator attach to your header panel and the one underneath - if you have it - attaches to your bumper.
3. Corner brackets - the older trucks (again, your 03 may vary from my 00) did not use the corner brace brackets, so there is nowhere to bolt them to the frame. So, I don't think it's a matter of buying a different bracket. If your current bumper does not use them, I wouldn't sweat it. The newer bumper will be at least as sturdy as your older one without them.
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2000 F250 7.3L PSD 4x4: Zoodad; 6 Autometer Z-Series (A-pillar and under cubby); Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator Springs; Magnefine filter (tranny); Moog greaseable ball joints; AFE Stage 2 + PG7; DPP 4" SS Exhaust; Rhino-lined; '05-'07 Front End Retrofit; Pre-pump and tank mods; Victor Wood Steering Wheel; Excursion Limited Wood Console Lid; Excursion sound insulating panels; HuskyLiners; MAP line with overboost pop-off; 2003 Mirrors; 2007 PSD Badges; NFab 2-step Nerf Bars; DieselSite Baldwin Coolant Filter; Warn Premium Locking Hubs; Diesel Innovations 4-way chip; Purple Cranium Differential Guards; Superlift TruSpeed; 6" Edge Lift on 37's by Truck Toyz; Icon Vehicle Dynamics Reservoir shocks; Strictly Diesel Pre-Pump Filter Kit
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Okay great! Thanks for the reply! I now know what your talking about with the wind fairings, I had to remove the lower one that attaches to the bumper and core support when I did my lift.

My bumper has 2 brackets on the inside corners. I guess if they don't work I won't worry about it right away, my brother works in a machine fab shop. I can have him take my truck into work one day and just make me a couple.

So this will only take about a day to complete the whole conversion sounds like then ha? I can't wait to get the newer look on my truck. Now I just need to find some mirrors with the turn signals in them.

Thanks again. I printed all this out for reference when I do the swap.
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Old 01-25-2009, 11:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Actually, I think you could get it done in about 4 hours, working alone and taking your time.
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2000 F250 7.3L PSD 4x4: Zoodad; 6 Autometer Z-Series (A-pillar and under cubby); Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator Springs; Magnefine filter (tranny); Moog greaseable ball joints; AFE Stage 2 + PG7; DPP 4" SS Exhaust; Rhino-lined; '05-'07 Front End Retrofit; Pre-pump and tank mods; Victor Wood Steering Wheel; Excursion Limited Wood Console Lid; Excursion sound insulating panels; HuskyLiners; MAP line with overboost pop-off; 2003 Mirrors; 2007 PSD Badges; NFab 2-step Nerf Bars; DieselSite Baldwin Coolant Filter; Warn Premium Locking Hubs; Diesel Innovations 4-way chip; Purple Cranium Differential Guards; Superlift TruSpeed; 6" Edge Lift on 37's by Truck Toyz; Icon Vehicle Dynamics Reservoir shocks; Strictly Diesel Pre-Pump Filter Kit
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:24 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Hey Xanthias,

Hoping you can give me a hand or maybe answer another question. So I got everything on, but something isn't right. I went to bolt up the new bumper with the new '05-'07 bumper plates, since the '03's didn't even come close to fitting. But now it's almost as if my grill is to low. I've got my bumper up as far as I can get it before it hits the grill, but there is room for the bumper to go up more if it wasn't for the grill being there. Now I bought all factory Ford stuff from my dealer and it all looks just like yours. The headlights fit like a glove, the new '05-'07 header panel went right in. It's just the bumper, where it sits right now, I have a gap about 3/4"-1" from the bumper to the headlights. I can't raise the header panel obviously cause then the headlights won't go in, and I didn't see any slots to raise the grill higher. Do you have any idea's? I'm thinking I might have to cut the grill section of the header panel away from the rest of it and drill new holes for it, to raise the grill up a little. Do you think that would work?

Thanks!

I really don't want to put all my old stuff back on, and waste all that money.
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Any chance the bumper plates are backwards/upside down?
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Old truck: 2000 PSD 4x4, ext cab, XLT, F-350, auto, V-code springs, air bags, coolant filter, 203 thermostat, Fleetrite ELC, DB Alternator, DB high-torque starter, Tru-cool Max-cool trans cooler, B&M trans temp gauge, 47 gallon Titan tank, IPT pre-pump filter kit.
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Old 02-20-2009, 04:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I got it figured out. The plates will only go on one way though. I don't know for some reason my just didn't line up right. So what I did was cut the grill section of the header panel away from the headlight section and raised it up. Then just re-mounted everything. Everything looks good now.
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Old 07-03-2009, 06:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Where Did you get the grill? I can't find stock like that other than the dealerships & they are in 400 $ range
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