1999-2007 Upgrades and Aftermarket - GeneralUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-2007 Super Duty. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are not engine-specific.
I have the factory fog lights, which were rewired to stay on both low beam and when switched to high beam. I used one of my upfitter switches for a set of Hella driving lights behind the grille. I also installed a stainless steel insert on the front of the grille. The lights have not been all that effective, I noticed last night they were hardly showing up. I looked today and they were getting dirty, there is no easy way to clean them. I would like to find a new spot on the front of the grille. That was my first choice but the mechanic at the dealership said he couldn't find a good way to mount them. I have a few thoughts about that. Also the driving lights only come on if the lights are on high beam and if the upfitter switch is on.
I put a set of square Hella work lamps on the corners of the rear bumper, they come on when the transmission is put into reverse. I also used an upfitter switch so that I can turn on the back up lights without being in reverse, this also turns on the factory back up lights.
I mounted another set of Hella work lamps on the headache rack, using the third upfitter switch. My fourth switch was wired to a couple 2 prong trailer plugs, one for an amber strobe light, the second one for a rechargeable flashlight(my plan is for a maglight) in one of my side boxes. Sorry I don't have any pictures available at this time.
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2K5 F350 Lariat, Wedgewood Blue, FX4, CC, SB, SRW, Hella driving lights, Weather Guard lo-side boxes, custom headache rack, Hella back up lights on rack and rear bumper, Cloud Rider honeycomb grill inserts, Motorola CDM1250 low band 2 way, Motorola CDM1250 VHF 2 way, Kenwood 2 metre/70 cm Amateur 2 way radio. Mileage as of May 2011 - 422 000 km.
1977 F100 Custom Cab, white, 302 V8, automatic, 96 000 miles, Weather Guard cross box. It was my first truck, I bought it in 1977, restored it in 2002, very much stock, that's the way I like it.
I have a set of Pro Comp 130 watt spotlights wired to one of my outfitter switches that are really bright. They are mouted on my brush guard and if you want some spotlights I highly recomment these. They are the 8'' lights and I got them on sale for $35 a piece from 4wheel parts. I also have the LED light bar from Recon.com that mounts under the tailgate, its a 3rd brake light, running light, blinker, and turns white when the truck is put in reverse and is very bright. Kind of pricey at $80 but I thought it was worth it. I will try and get you some pics
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2005 F250 King Ranch CC 6.0 SRW, 70,000 miles, westin brush guard, 8" 130watt lights, 5" MBRP turbo back exhaust, high idle switch, zoodad mod, dieselsite coolant filter
You could try what I'm going to when I mount my PIAA lights:
Make an L bracket that goes to the upper bumper bolts, and have it bend and fit between the bumper and the grill. that way its secured and you don't have to drill into the bumper to mount them.
If you want the rear lights to turn on with the reverse engagement you could try tapping into the power wire of the reverse bulb at the tail light, some people do that.
Personally I'd go for a switch, that way if you want to use them while you're hooking up a trailer at night you could switch them on
Check ebay for cheap fog lights, they can make nice reverse lights and then if one gets damaged it's not that big of a deal.
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2002 F-350 Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 7.3L Auto SRW
AFE Stage II Intake, AFE 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust, CCV Mod, Zoodad Mod, Pre-pump Mod, Flex-A-Lite Tranny Cooler, Draw-Tite Activator II Trailer Brake Control, IC Foil Wrap Delete, 203° Thermostat, Ford reman. Turbo, Fleetrite HD ELC, Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic, 4300K 35Watt dual beam HIDs, DB High-Torque Starter, Isspro EV gauges (trans,boost,pyro), Dp-Tuner F5
Last edited by Tony_ONeil; 11-17-2009 at 10:58 AM.
FWIW: Grab a set of Sylvania SilverStar® ULTRA bulbs for your headlamps. You simply cannot go wrong with them; lot's of bang for the buck.
"I don't post often, but when I do ..."
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2003 Ford F-350 6.0L Superduty Supercab XLT 4x4 SCT X3 Power Flash Handheld Programmer
Custom Perfomance Tuning done by Eric
Phone: 410-620-3020; Toll-Free 1-866-642-7844
ARB AIR LOCKERs w/onboard Air Compressor
- Dana 60 Front & Sterling Full Floating Rear 10.5" w/3.73 gears
Front 3" Leveling Lift / Rear 2.5" add-a-leaf
TOYO Open Country Mud Terrains 315/75 R16
Amsoil Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 HDD
AMSOIL SuperDuty Oil Filter SDF88
AMSOIL PCF-60 PowerCore™ Technology Air Filter
SilverStars are good for light output, but they use more juice than the average bulb and have almost half the life...
I grabbed a set of HIDs. 'Not for on-road use', but if they're angled down they don't blind people so I don't see why there would be an issue (also went with white color).
I've tested them out and the stock lights on my jeep wrangler cause more glare issues for oncoming cars than my HIDs do.
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2002 F-350 Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 7.3L Auto SRW
AFE Stage II Intake, AFE 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust, CCV Mod, Zoodad Mod, Pre-pump Mod, Flex-A-Lite Tranny Cooler, Draw-Tite Activator II Trailer Brake Control, IC Foil Wrap Delete, 203° Thermostat, Ford reman. Turbo, Fleetrite HD ELC, Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic, 4300K 35Watt dual beam HIDs, DB High-Torque Starter, Isspro EV gauges (trans,boost,pyro), Dp-Tuner F5
I was told a while back that they had less resistance in them than the average bulb letting more current flow through them and creating more heat in the in element and a brighter bulb.
My buddy ran them in his Honda and he went through at least half a dozen bulbs in the couple years he owned it. Maybe the car had some other internal problems that we did not know about.
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2002 F-350 Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 7.3L Auto SRW
AFE Stage II Intake, AFE 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust, CCV Mod, Zoodad Mod, Pre-pump Mod, Flex-A-Lite Tranny Cooler, Draw-Tite Activator II Trailer Brake Control, IC Foil Wrap Delete, 203° Thermostat, Ford reman. Turbo, Fleetrite HD ELC, Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic, 4300K 35Watt dual beam HIDs, DB High-Torque Starter, Isspro EV gauges (trans,boost,pyro), Dp-Tuner F5
But take a look at my truck pix for aftermarket ideas. Be advised that I do have a permit for the foward facing Red/Clear flashing lights/LEDs.
For aftermarket lights, Hellas are better quality and less money than PIAA.
Have fun.
Marc
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2005 F-250 Supercab 4x4 Lariat long bed 6 speed, Vegistroke V3 WVO system, integrated brake controller, upfitter switches, TTM, South Texas Outfitters custom front end replacement, Whelen Liberty LED lightbar, Whelen Dominator LED front bar, hidden front strobes, rear LED's and strobes, Rhino liner, Whelen 200 watt siren, Havis Consolidator console, and other hidden goodies. Pictures are in "Shoebox" album. http://community.webshots.com/user/vtfireftr
HID's are the ONLY way to go!! The color temperature allows for much easier night vision and visibility. It's closer to natural daylight and uses a fraction of the power that standard lamps do. You have to make sure whatever you put them in doesn't have beveled headlights...it doesn't allow the beam to focus, instead it refracts and blinds oncoming drivers. A standard HID setup has a single burner, which is brighter than your high and low beams combined. They also have dual-burner, which is two seperate HID systems in each head lamp. They allow for more adjustability and will light up your world!
You need to watch your color temperature, I have driving lights that are HID and they are more white than blue...I get flashed sometimes when it's daytime.
If you want to go all out and you travel a lot at night, more so in semi-remote area's (Alaska, Canada, Montana, etc.) the off-road HID lights are second to none!! I used to run 4 Lightforce 240's but they sucked with just 2-8" HID!!! No joke! You couldn't even tell they were on! You can literally illuminate objects a mile out! It has saved me more times than I can count from hitting deer, moose and bison!! They work AMAZING in snow!!!
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early '99 F-350 LB CC 4x4 w/ '01 7.3
10" lift
38" M/T toyo's
4.56 w/ Detroit locker w/ Mag-Hytec cover
Dynatrac free-spin conversion kit w/ Warn hubs
Lifetime ball-joints
Bushwacker cut-outs
BD 4R100 tranny w/ remote filter & Mag-Hytec pan
Tru-Cool Max cooler
Amsoil dual by-pass oil filtration system w/ pre-luber & Ea filters
Amsoil front to rear
140 gal. aux. tank
Twin Odyssey 65 series 1750 amp batteries
250 amp H.O. alternator
AFE stage II intake
Edge programmer
Big Woof turbo
4" down/5" exhaust
Evans waterless coolant & 0 pressure cooling sys. w/ 203 thermo
coolant by-pass filter
Autometer gauges (tranny, pyro & boost)
Digital outside thermometer good to -100, though I've only gotten it to -84
A.R.T cryo-treated brakes and pads (front & rear)
SS brake lines
Oasis XD4000 compressor
TWIN (2 seperate/2x3=6) train horns
dual-burner HID headlights
HID driving lights
4 Hella HID 8" lights
In-dash Pioneer nav
1,500 watt power inverter
Uniden scanner
blacked-out windows
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