Installing an Icon 8" this weekend. Tips needed! - Diesel Forum

LiftedBlackHD · 08-29-2008, 09:14 AM

On Saturday I will be installing a new Icon 8" all spring lift. Any tips, suggestions or advice would be great. If anyone has or knows of a step by step guide that would be awesome. Wish me luck!
Thanks.

DecreasingDave · 08-30-2008, 04:33 AM

penatrating oil, lots and lots of penatrating oil.....

Oh, and remove the A/C Condenser support brackets to facilitate the front spring bolt removal. Short of cutting (as some have resorted to) this is your only hope.

Dave

standardcab shortbed · 09-01-2008, 02:26 AM

loctite the pitman arm nut back on-make sure to tighten it, drive it for 20 miles over bumpy terrain, then re-tighten with loctite. (that goes for EVERY FASTENER FOR THAT MATTER) This is IMPORTANT! I sheared a power steering box when mine loosened up-make sure to check it periodically as well. ALL THE SUSPENSION is going to loosen up A LOT once you drive it-expect to re-torque everything SEVERAL times. Loctite is your friend-Id use blue so you can re-torque without heat, but without fear of things falling off. make sure to actually use the proper torque for the front u-bolts as overtightening will distort the stamped steel bracket thats welded to the axle, and undertightening will cause you to crack springs-same goes with the rear.

The track bar might be tough to align-if so, have someone put pressure on the suspension by holding the steering wheel with the truck not running until the front end moves over enough to line up. Make sure the front end is centered under the truck with a tape measure-if its not, your spring hangers can rub the frame and cause squeaking. If by chance your truck has a 3/4" track bar-make sure to upgrade to the 1". Id get an adjustable bar just to make sure you can center the rear properly.

Make sure to shim the carrier bearing properly-you could wind up with some vibration if you dont. Im assuming the front is an all spring lift-you wont have to worry about the front shafts angle, but 8" is about the max you can go without crossover steering or other driveline mods. I squeezed 8.5 out of my front and 6.5 out of my rear to level it.

The front brake line brackets (that secure the top portion of the rubber line to the frame (the vacumn line for the hubs goes through this as well) will have to be bent out in order to provide enough slack for the lines during suspension travel-make sure to do this. The rear e-brake cables should be routed inside the frame to prevent the tires from rubbing them. Also, your differential vents will likely not reach-make sure to retain them to something before driving it-you dont want them to fall down or pull out when the suspension travels.

That should cover the majority of what you'll run into! good luck, its a fun swap!

standardcab shortbed · 09-01-2008, 02:27 AM

oh-and like dave said-the front shackle bolts are a PITA-put them in backwards upon re-assembly-that way you can tighten them without removing the lower condesor brackets, even remove them if need be!

AND LASTLY! Be careful changing the track bar drop bracket. The nut plate inside MOVES! if you lose it in the frame, you have to get NUTS in there, and hold them. IT IS HORRIBLE!