Upgrades and Aftermarket - GeneralUpgrading and adding aftermarket equipment to your 1999-2007 Super Duty. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are not engine-specific.
While towing the 5th wheel last month, we had a 'close encounter of the worst kind' with a Toyota Land Crusier that moved into my lane at highways speeds then stopped!
I now want to upgrade my original brakes and have considered two options...
1) Hawk Pads, slotted rotors and steel braided lines with rebuilt calipers.
2) The whole SSBC conversion which works out to over twice the money
with the steel lines etc.
My thoughts lean towards option one with the minimal towing we do, but I thought input from those who may have already upgraded their systems may be in order.
Anyone have an opinion?
IMHO, I believe that the brakes on these trucks do their designed job quite well. Did your "anti-skid" kick in? If so, that's the best you are going to get no matter what kind of brakes you have. What about your 5er brakes? Can you lock them up, or at least close to it. You don't say how big your 5er is, but I would be looking at its brakes. My .02
jgr
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Y2K F350, Ecab, LWB, SRW, 4X2, ZF6, Full Gauges, Ebrake, Chipped 271rwhp/584tq, Coolantfilter, fumoto valve, oil by-pass filter, CCV mod with return to intake, dahl 100, straight piped, PML cover, 203 stat and billet, AIS, Zoodad
Pristine,
You are right in that the brakes do work well, but with 9 years on the rig, it is about time to look at replacements, so why not upgrade.
During the event, the rig slowed straight and the 32' 5th wheel only locked at the very end of the emergency stop. The main issue was the 3 vehicle lengths I had to make the stop, but one cannot help but wonder if better brakes make have helped, if only a little.
Ok, but did the "anti lock" system cut in? If it didn't, then it isn't working right, or you didn't push hard enough. If it did, then the kind of pads/rotors don't matter. I agree that if you want to change out the pads/rotors, then go for the best. They will last longer and do the best job possible. I know what you mean by a panic stop. But think on the bright side, it got your cardio workout for the week!!
jgr
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Y2K F350, Ecab, LWB, SRW, 4X2, ZF6, Full Gauges, Ebrake, Chipped 271rwhp/584tq, Coolantfilter, fumoto valve, oil by-pass filter, CCV mod with return to intake, dahl 100, straight piped, PML cover, 203 stat and billet, AIS, Zoodad
O yeah!!1 Cardio worked well for sure!! LOL
I had my foot down as hard as possible , but have no recollection of an anti locking sounds that I could relate to from my police cars days. Now, with no disrespect intended, my poor wife was 'voicing her concern loudly' at this time but their was no pedal pulse or sounds that I can recall.
Have you flushed the brake system? I put NAPA rotors and pads on the rear of mine then flushed the lines. You would be amazed at the black and green junk that came out. First time it's been changed in 9 years. That probably did more than anything.
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2006 KR, CC, LB, 4x4, 6.0 moonroof, power rear slider, dual alternators, Pop-Up gooseneck ball, DR leveling kit, 32000 miles
12/98, CC, XLT, LB, 4x4, 7.3, 6sp, ProComp leveling kit, Bilsteins, DiPricol Pyro,Boost and Fuel Gauges, 295 BFG's, SouthBend Con-O, 167,000 miles, AIS, Mag-Hytec diff cover, Amsoil in diff's trans and transfer, 203 thermostat with billet neck, ss esof lines. Bank's 4" exhaust, Performance Friction rotors and pads, DP F5. chip, ITP SS HPX Line,BulletProof Steering adj. track bar
Cowcop, I assume you live up north of K-loops somewhere. If it ever rains enough to get a wet road, take the truck out solo and stomp on the brakes. The Anti-skid should pulse the pedal and you should feel the system cycling. If not, I would get it looked at. Having said all that, new fluid certainly wouldn't hurt, but the ABS should still cycle.
jgr
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Y2K F350, Ecab, LWB, SRW, 4X2, ZF6, Full Gauges, Ebrake, Chipped 271rwhp/584tq, Coolantfilter, fumoto valve, oil by-pass filter, CCV mod with return to intake, dahl 100, straight piped, PML cover, 203 stat and billet, AIS, Zoodad
I have thought some more on this. If your brake pads are glazed, then they will not grab the rotor as normal. Therfore, the ABS will not work because you can't push hard enough to get the wheel to start to skid. Maybe??
jgr
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Y2K F350, Ecab, LWB, SRW, 4X2, ZF6, Full Gauges, Ebrake, Chipped 271rwhp/584tq, Coolantfilter, fumoto valve, oil by-pass filter, CCV mod with return to intake, dahl 100, straight piped, PML cover, 203 stat and billet, AIS, Zoodad
My recommended upgrade would be PFC Z pads, OE Rotors, and stainless steel reinforced hoses. With this amount of time on your brakes, it would not hurt to try to get new, not rebuilt, OE calipers and do this right.
Also I would be dropping your fuel tank and replacing the rear brake hard line that is hidden in the frame rail behind the tank.
While the Hawk LTS pads have a lot of bite at the end of the stop, they don't in the beginning.
Sorry guys...away at work.
I think you all have touched on various issues including the original fluid that is way overdue and even the glazing.
I will be trying the good pads with OEM or slotted rotors ,and yes, this is my tow vehicle, NEW calipers!
Thanks for the input!
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