1999-2007 Upgrades and Aftermarket - GeneralUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-2007 Super Duty. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are not engine-specific.
Hi Folks,
I have a 2000 F-250 with the 7.3 PSD, of course. It is a 4x4 lariat model super cab. I absolutely love my truck! I only have about 70k on it, but a lot of those miles are pulling a 10,000 lb. fifth-wheel camper.
My brakes have been replaced once, and I was told that the rotors are probably not thick enough to turn again. They have started to shimmy a little and pull to the side when I'm towing, but I can feel the shake even empty.
I'd like to upgrade, and not just go with factory parts. Thinking about the EBC brake pads and rotors. But I'd love to here your suggestions before I buy. Please comment on what you have that works well, particularly in a towing application.
I tow a 12K 5er, so our load is about the same. My service brakes are still above 75% remaining and they are the originals. My advise is to get an exhaust brake and your service brakes will last a lot longer than what you are at present. My vehicle mileage is about the same as yours. I wouldn't leave home without the exahust brake. My .02
jgr
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2000 F350, Ecab, LWB, SRW, 4X2, ZF6, Full Gauges, Ebrake, Chipped 271rwhp/584tq, Scan gauge II, Coolantfilter, fumoto valve, oil by-pass filter, CCV mod with return to intake, dahl 100, 40 gal. aux tank, straight piped, PML cover, 203 stat and billet, AIS, Zoodad
I put on Powerslot rotors with Hawk Pads several years ago due to a warped rotor when I bought the truck. They perform nice and I have not had any problems with them towing a 9k trailer. They have a cad coating on them that keeps them from rusting too. So they stay looking nice, the brake pad contact is bare steel but the rest is plated. I want to say they were the same price as OEM rotors and pads when I got them.
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Ken
2002 F-350 CCLB 4X4, HD4R100 , Riffraff FRx, Riffraff CAC Boots & PRI's, Bellowed Up-Pipes, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust, Powerslot rotors, ATS Ported Compressor Housing, DP Tuner-F6, Autoenginuity, EEC-V Breakout Box, KCM S.S. HPX Line, S&B Filters intake, Quad Autometer gauge pod, Inovations canopy, Banks Big Head wastegate actuator, 6.0L Trans Cooler, Spin-on Transmission filter with custom bracket, Zoo-dad, Dieselsite Coolant Filter, Cobra 29LTD/NW CB, DVD and always looking to do more....
Thanks gentlemen. The exhaust brake may be an upgrade for the future, but right now I need to replace the brakes first! I think a part of my trouble with brakes is the 6% grade I pull up and down when we leave the house. Every where we go in the Southeast, I'm basically faced with at least one 2-4 mile 6% grade, and a few places we go have a couple of those.
Add the fact that my truck sits quite a bit and I have just always eaten brakes it seems like. That is why I'm looking for an upgrade.
I'd love to do an exhaust brake, but I don't see it in the budget this year. What type do you have, where was it installed, and about what price range am I looking at?
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01 Excursion 7.3L Powerstroke. Gauges with AIH Delete, AIS, CCV Mod, 4' MBRP, BTS Trans, 6.0L Trans Cooler and Intercooler, DP-Tuner F5 chip, ITP In Tank Mod and Boost Annihilator, Diesel Innovation's Regulated Fuel kit, BTS Big Oil system, GTP38R Turbo with 1.15 A/R housing and BPD Stage II AC injectors. Bilstein Shocks with U code front and A code Rear.
Try a DIY exhaust brake, very cheap. Actually free if you have the few parts lying around. If you have an auto, you will need to also lock the torque converter at the same time.
I just bought the Hawk Pads and PowerSlot rotors. I've been waiting over a month for the rear parts as they are on backorder. No idea what's going on here.
__________________ '02 F-350 "Babe The Big Blue Truck" 4x4, Ext. Cab, 8' bed, SRW
DP-Tuner 80T, Stage I single shots, ported compressor and 1.0 A/R turbine housings, coolant filter, 6637, DIY exhaust brake, openair CCV, propane, SBC DD all ceramic clutch, ISSPRO EV boost/pyro/HPOP pres./rear end temp, 4" lift, 255/70R22.5 tires, York air compressor, 16 flashy lights, 12 strobes, 12 switches on console, 9 switches on the dash, 7 two-way radios, 5 air horns, laptop, siren, 105 gal. in-bed fuel tank, Kennesaw Mountain front bumper
'86 H-D Sportster - 16" apes on 4" risers, 4 gal tank, custom paint, custom pipes to fishtails, single fire ignition, Accell wires, mid '90s Harley leather saddle bags on custom brackets, bagger fender, solo seat, home made luggage rack, all LED rear lights
'66 Bronco "Big Little Monster" - 5.0L EFI, AOD, 3.5" lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFGs, Lock-Rite front, mini spool rear, disk brakes, Warn Hubs
Braided lines would look good, but how exactly do they improve braking performance? As for a diy exhaust brake, I don't have the time or inclination to do that type of work. I'm looking for comments on what brake pads/rotors/etc. that are available that will give me better braking while towing an 11,000# trailer.
Braided lines would look good, but how exactly do they improve braking performance? As for a diy exhaust brake, I don't have the time or inclination to do that type of work. I'm looking for comments on what brake pads/rotors/etc. that are available that will give me better braking while towing an 11,000# trailer.
Thanks!
A more extreme example is the wife's car. Used to be, she stepped on the brakes and they didn't engage like they should and suddenly, they engaged. What I theorize happened is that as she gently stepped on the brakes, the hoses swelled till they could go no more then they let the pressure thru and the brakes felt like suddenly engaging. Now she puts a little pressure and the brake is there.
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01 Excursion 7.3L Powerstroke. Gauges with AIH Delete, AIS, CCV Mod, 4' MBRP, BTS Trans, 6.0L Trans Cooler and Intercooler, DP-Tuner F5 chip, ITP In Tank Mod and Boost Annihilator, Diesel Innovation's Regulated Fuel kit, BTS Big Oil system, GTP38R Turbo with 1.15 A/R housing and BPD Stage II AC injectors. Bilstein Shocks with U code front and A code Rear.
The easiest cheapest way to fix it would be powerslots and hawk pads, about $275.. I got these after my stockers warped. Now I can lock up my 38s. Just make sure all the air is bled out
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The 6.0l motor has surpassed Hot Chicks as the greatest Money reducing Agent known to Mankind.
2004 F-250 Lariat late build 4X4 CC/LB auto,fully loaded with sunroof, power slider and backup sensors , White with 12" ICON lift, 6 superduty valved bilsteins, flip steering, 38" MTZs on 20x12 chrome Fuel Hostage wheels, stock gears, superlift truspeed, fumoto, high idle mod, large case high amp alternator, floating traction bars, airraid intake with elbow, 4" turbo back, studded, powerslots with hawk pads, billet grill, 55 watt HIDs 6000k heads and fogs, clear corners, 7" Eclipse AVN6620BT NAV w/ back up camera, massive JL stereo 300/4 and 500/1, 2 12s behind back seat, amp research steps, sirius, '08 diff cover, redhead steering box,, coolant filter kit, hush panels and door seal mod, quad pod with boost, EGT, water temp, and fuel pressure gauges
I'm having a tough time finding a part number for a 2000 F-250 4x4 PSD front rotors in the powerslots or EBC's for that matter. Everybody lists parts for the dang V-10 gassers, but not the diesels. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
OK, nevermind. I just found the part number for the Hawk Superduty pads and Powerslot rotors and ordered them from Summit Racing. Should be here next week. I'll do an update on how I like them after they have been in for a few days.
The easiest cheapest way to fix it would be powerslots and hawk pads, about $275.. I got these after my stockers warped. Now I can lock up my 38s. Just make sure all the air is bled out
Where are they for $275?
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2003 7.3 PSD Crew Short bed - DIY Air Filter, 4in Turbo back MagnaFlow Exhaust, Turbo-master wastegate controller, Adrenaline HPOP, Auto Meter Z-Series gauges, EBV Delete, RiffRaff AIH plug, DP-Tuner 80 Econo
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