1999-2007 Upgrades and Aftermarket - GeneralUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 1999-2007 Super Duty. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are not engine-specific.
I may be posting to premature but have a couple of questions. Today I installed power slot cryo rotors and hawk LTS pads. While apart I cleaned and greased the slide pins. Now the truck pulls to the left when I brake. I know I need to wear off cadium (sp) coating before they will brake in. Is it possible that one of the rotors has worn this coating off first and that is why it is pulling ( only drove truck a couple of miles). Slide pins cleaned up well and I used plenty of grease so I dont think this is the problem. Any other ideas or do I need to wait a few more miles before i jump to conclusions. Truck is an 02 4X4 crew cab long bed with 105k. Thanks for any help.
Well today I swapped pads side to side and it still pulls. Hopefully someone will chime in. Now I need to know if there is a way to test the calipers and hoses or do I just have to replace them. Again any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks
If you didn't swap the rotors and one side has more coating, that could still be the issue. There is no way to test the hoses, but they should be inspected to see if they are twisted. If the caliper was hung by the hose, or if it caught the caliper when it slipped off where it was resting, it probably needs to be replaced.
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Jack
Former Vehicle Test Manager - Friction Products
03 F350SC 4x4 6.0 Auto 5/30/03
Truck Modifications below in Pictorials on Facebook. Search in Google - Facebook TooManyToys
FMTRVT thanks for the reply. I didnt swapt the rotors. I also tried to becareful with the hoses and did not hang them, but set them on the leaf spring. I guess I will put more miles on to see if the coating is the problem then do the hoses if the problem still persists.
One side has air in it. Bleed both sides til clean fluid comes out.
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2004 F-250 Lariat late build 4X4 CC/LB auto,fully loaded with sunroof, power slider and backup sensors , White with 12" ICON lift, 6 superduty valved bilsteins, flip steering, 38" MTZs on 20x12 chrome Fuel Hostage wheels, stock gears, superlift truspeed, fumoto, high idle mod, large case high amp alternator, floating traction bars, airraid intake with elbow, 4" turbo back, studded, powerslots with hawk pads, billet grill, 55 watt HIDs 6000k heads and fogs, clear corners, 7" Eclipse AVN6620BT NAV w/ back up camera, massive JL stereo 300/4 and 500/1, 2 12s behind back seat, amp research steps, sirius, '08 diff cover, redhead steering box,, coolant filter kit, hush panels and door seal mod, quad pod with boost, EGT, water temp, and fuel pressure gauges
So here is where I stand now. Since my first post I have had the fluid flushed, replaced both calipers and brake lines. I have even lubed the rear slide pins just to be safe. The truck still pulls to the left. It pulls slightly to the left when not braking. Will an alignment pull be exagerated while braking?
An alignment pull can be exaggerated while braking. But, you stated that the pull started as you changed the brake pads so it's hard to imagine that you did something to the alignment with a pad change.
Have you checked the rear brakes?
Does the pull occur right from the first brake application in the morning, after a number of stops or driving, or only for the first few stops?
__________________
Jack
Former Vehicle Test Manager - Friction Products
03 F350SC 4x4 6.0 Auto 5/30/03
Truck Modifications below in Pictorials on Facebook. Search in Google - Facebook TooManyToys
It pretty much always pulls cold or warm. If Im going down the freeway and brake it will pull severly. The steering wheel wont jerk, but the whole truck just kind of drifts, and I have to give input into the steering to correct it. Can I swap rotors side to side just for a test or will it damage them. On another note could my spring bushings be bad and cause the front axle to shift and create a pull? I am pulling my hair out and have put to much $$ into a simple pad /rotor swap. Almost ready to put on my old warped rotors just to see if it changes any thing. Thanks for your help FMTRVT.
I've had test Superdutys that would pull hard from the rear brakes. When it's from the rear it can pull you over quite good but more so towards the middle to send of the stop. If it's a front pull you feel a strong tug in the steering wheel right from the start of the application.
If it was my truck (and I'll spend time rather then money hunting something down), I would be carefully going over the rears. Make sure the pads are not sticking in the brackets and seeing if any of the rear pistons take a lot of force to push back into the caliper.
If a balljoint is bad, it can cause a pull. But a quick correction in the steering wheel gets it to track straight for the remainder of the stop.
Do you have access to a infrared heat gun? The friction materials used vehicles of this side increase in friction with increasing temperature. If a pad or caliper is hanging up even a little, allowing a pad to rub on the rotor, the pad and rotor will be hotter then the pads on the other side of the vehicle and the vehicle will pull to the hot side.
Just throwing out suggestions here as I can't see this first hand.
__________________
Jack
Former Vehicle Test Manager - Friction Products
03 F350SC 4x4 6.0 Auto 5/30/03
Truck Modifications below in Pictorials on Facebook. Search in Google - Facebook TooManyToys
FMTRVT I am going to do as you say and borrow an infared heat gun and try that. I had to drive down to L.A. yesterday in some stop and go traffic and had to perform a "panic stop" at one point and noticed after that the pull seemed to get a liitle better only while pads were hot. Also going to have my alignment guy align it while Im at it just to be safe. I will keep you posted, again thanks for all your help.
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