Upgrades and Aftermarket - GeneralUpgrading and adding aftermarket equipment to your 1999-2007 Super Duty. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are not engine-specific.
As I inderstand, the PTO option on the 5R110W is rare unless you ordered it, and the conversion if you dont have it is costly to the point of a new trans, (case, gears, shaft, etc)
Looks like a nifty gadget if you have the money and the need.
Take Care
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'05 Excursion 6.0L with Air Lifts and Bilsteins, high idle mod., only 'tuner' is in the radio, towing an '00 HR Alumascape 31SKS with a Hensley.
If you're not going to run extra batteries, I'd say a larger unit like a 3k watt will really work your batteries. I'd highly suggest adding auxilary batteries,...even if they're cheap basic car batteries.
As far as cabling. I usually suggest 1/0 ga for these larger inverters if going say 6-10ft. Wouldn't suggest going any farther than that.
If you keep batteries close (3ft or so) like I did here, you can use dual 4ga runs or a 2ga may do.
I installed a 3000w vector into my toolbox. I have 2 basic economy grade car batteries installed directly under the inverter (yes, it's a tight fit) all built into a wooden box.
Ran 4ga cable to truck batteries through ANL fuse (1 at box, and 1 at front batteries). These cables ran neatly through stake pocket in truck bedside with some slight modifications.
An additional dual ANL fuseblock is housed down inside the entire mess.
Works great. I run power tools, 500w work lights, pancake air compressor, grinder, coffee pot when camping etc.
Would like to see if it'll run my little 130amp lincoln welder.
All in all, about $400 in this setup. While you get more bang for buck w/ generator, I like this as it's ALWAYS with me.
__________________ y2k F250 7.3 psd Calif emissions, ext cab long bed 265/75/R16 E rated tires, 170k miles 4x4 (nv271 manual t-case) 7.3 #1247981 1/18/00 (forged rods), 3.73LSD, non-diode 4R100, Dp tuner stock, 60t 60e 80t 80e, high idle. DIY 6637 air filter, wicked wheel, turbo master WG controller, turbo lifesaver, bellowed uppies, 4" downpipe & exhaust, triple pod glowshift gauges (egt, tranny, boost), Ride-rite 2330 air bags. Sports a Western plow when the white stuff flies.
Trailers:
I'm usually towing 1 of several trailers I've built.
15ft car hauler (1000lbs empty; 5500lbs loaded)
26ft deck over car hauler (2000lbs empty; 7k loaded)
36ft car hauler (Was tongue pull; have since converted into 5er'. 4500lbs empty; 13k loaded) http://lh4.ggpht.com/_BiLiZujEXVM/Sx...2/IMG_2308.JPG
Have seen a combination welder/generator which was belt driven mounted on a contractors truck (PS). The contractor had mounted it so was aftermarket. Worked well for welding don't know about the generator part. No idea where it was purchased but they were electrical contractors installing generators and associated systems.
I use a 400W invertor with which i can run an impact wrench and have also ran a 14inch electric chain saw. Also have a 1200W invertor which is never used. I just snap the jumper cables on the inverters on the battery and let the engine idle for such period of use
Last edited by Fordpowerstroke350 : 12-07-2009 at 06:58 PM.
Reason: add info
Why did my post get deleted? The answer to my question would have helped others...
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01' 7.3 4X4 DRK MTLC BLU, DP Tuner F5, AEM Intake, 4" Turboback Silverline Exhaust, BTS VB, AEM digital gauges(pyro, boost controller, trans temp), CCV mod, Rebuilt Injectors, Fuel tank Mods, 203T, 6.0 Trans Cooler, 185,000K and original tranny, so far so good.
I will not ever run another inverter on my truck, last Monday night I ran a 1000 watt inverter for about 2hours, Daughter's Academic team had a float in a Christmas parade, ran some Chritmas lights, the next day I had to replace the alternator. Dont know if running the inverter caused the alternator to go out, but it got the blame!! I agree with the others, get a small generator to run the neccesities at your home during power outages,Just my 2 cents.
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2002 Ford F-350 Crew Cab, DRW, Straight Pipe Exhaust, Cold Air Intake, otherwise stock
the PTO Gen would be a really good option for me. How would I know if I have the PTO on my tranny or not...
If you have a 6-speed manual tranny, then you have the PTO prep pkg. It was standard with the ZF 6-speed manual tranny. But if you have an automagic tranny, then you probably don't have the PTO prep pkg. The PTO prep pkg was an option on the automagic tranny, and very few other than work trucks have them. And if your tranny doesn't have the PTO prep pkg, the only way to get it is to buy a rebuilt tranny that originally came with the PTO prep pkg. A Ford factory rebuilt 4R100 tranny with the PTO prep pkg will probably cost you a coupla hundred bucks more than the same rebuilt 4R100 tranny without the PTO prep pkg.
The PTO prep pkg is not a PTO. It is simply an access plate on the side of the tranny where you can install an afermarket PTO. Work trucks with a PTO usually have a hydraulic system that's powered by the PT0, then the hydraulic system powers other items, such as a generator, winch, dump bed, air compressor, etc. But it's not for the average weekend warrior. The PTO and hydraulic system costs over $3,000, then each hydraulic-powered item usually costs more than the gasoline motor version.
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My Sierra Blanca is a '99.5 PSD CrewCab hot-rod Towing Machine! BTS tranny; Ford Severe Duty Air Induction System (AIS); 4" stainless turbo-back exhaust; DP-Tuner tunes flashed into an Edge Evolution tuner; ISSPRO EV gauges and Turbo Temp Monitor (TTM); Auxiliary Idle Controller (AIC); SP-Diesel exhaust brake and torque converter controller. Top Job front end replacement. I special-ordered it new and plan to drive it until it quits.
Last edited by SmokeyWren : 12-11-2009 at 09:52 AM.
Reason: add PTO links
Why did my post get deleted? The answer to my question would have helped others...
I don't find a deleted post by you in the last several days. I suspect you didn't get it posted, but thought you did. It happens to me often, when the internet goes bonkers or the ISP has a burp. So if you think it will help others, then post it again. And then go to a different forum and come back here to be sure the post is included in the thread.
Ok sir will do, my question had to do with how high of idle is ideal to run a continuous 2000 watts for 20 minutes with the stock batteries. I have currently 1100 RPM high idle with the DP-Tuner and wondering if thats enough. I have a 3000 watt inverter I will install pretty soon but will not be operating it at peak, just running a shop vac and maybe a grinder simultaneous. So will I need a higher idle setting?
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01' 7.3 4X4 DRK MTLC BLU, DP Tuner F5, AEM Intake, 4" Turboback Silverline Exhaust, BTS VB, AEM digital gauges(pyro, boost controller, trans temp), CCV mod, Rebuilt Injectors, Fuel tank Mods, 203T, 6.0 Trans Cooler, 185,000K and original tranny, so far so good.
Ok sir will do, my question had to do with how high of idle is ideal to run a continuous 2000 watts for 20 minutes with the stock batteries. I have currently 1100 RPM high idle with the DP-Tuner and wondering if thats enough. I have a 3000 watt inverter I will install pretty soon but will not be operating it at peak, just running a shop vac and maybe a grinder simultaneous. So will I need a higher idle setting?
My honest opinion is that Jody's 1100 or 1200 will be more than sufficient for your application.
See my install a few posts below. It's a 3000w. I love it and my high idle works well with it. I use the inverter even more than I orginally thought I would. I keep a portable pancake compressor in the bed too and now that I keep both of those items with me, you'd be amazed how often the air is used........
As far as the "cadillac" of options in the PTO for providing means of converting 110v power..............
I don't believe the PTO option is in the same league as an inverter,..........or even really a generator for that matter due to cost.
We're talking about thousands to get rolling w/ PTO setup and a few hundred bucks for generator, or inverter.
While some are giving a thumbs down for the inverter route vs the generator route, I suspect that a generator isn't too much more of a hassel for many of the applications they're referring to. Futhermore, it's very crutial that and inverter setup be installed correctly and with plenty of battery power.
And the old fashion......different approach for various applications. For instance: I'd vote for a 3000w generator over a 3000w inverter to power my house during an outage.
For me,.....it's more about having the inverter there with me wherever I am throughout the country for those times that I never plan for.
Maybe on the beach in North Carolina, camping in the hills of Tenn, in the walmart parking lot and someone needs help airing up a tire, etc etc.
While I guess I could strap a generator in the bed of my truck permanently, I just really like the compact portability and quite-ness of the inverter.
best of luck.
__________________ y2k F250 7.3 psd Calif emissions, ext cab long bed 265/75/R16 E rated tires, 170k miles 4x4 (nv271 manual t-case) 7.3 #1247981 1/18/00 (forged rods), 3.73LSD, non-diode 4R100, Dp tuner stock, 60t 60e 80t 80e, high idle. DIY 6637 air filter, wicked wheel, turbo master WG controller, turbo lifesaver, bellowed uppies, 4" downpipe & exhaust, triple pod glowshift gauges (egt, tranny, boost), Ride-rite 2330 air bags. Sports a Western plow when the white stuff flies.
Trailers:
I'm usually towing 1 of several trailers I've built.
15ft car hauler (1000lbs empty; 5500lbs loaded)
26ft deck over car hauler (2000lbs empty; 7k loaded)
36ft car hauler (Was tongue pull; have since converted into 5er'. 4500lbs empty; 13k loaded) http://lh4.ggpht.com/_BiLiZujEXVM/Sx...2/IMG_2308.JPG
I see your point about the generator, but I have been using and carrying one with me everywhere(honda 5000watt) but I only use it in short bursts, Id like to use the space in the bed for other equipment, so I think an inverter is my best option. Thanks for your post and I will look closely at your setup thanks again!
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01' 7.3 4X4 DRK MTLC BLU, DP Tuner F5, AEM Intake, 4" Turboback Silverline Exhaust, BTS VB, AEM digital gauges(pyro, boost controller, trans temp), CCV mod, Rebuilt Injectors, Fuel tank Mods, 203T, 6.0 Trans Cooler, 185,000K and original tranny, so far so good.
Did you connect one battery to the left battery in the engine compartment, and another batt to the right battery in the engine compartment? Or did you tie both auxillary batteries together and run positive and negative to 1 battery in the engine compartment? Sorry for the rookie questions, just dont want to fubar this up.
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01' 7.3 4X4 DRK MTLC BLU, DP Tuner F5, AEM Intake, 4" Turboback Silverline Exhaust, BTS VB, AEM digital gauges(pyro, boost controller, trans temp), CCV mod, Rebuilt Injectors, Fuel tank Mods, 203T, 6.0 Trans Cooler, 185,000K and original tranny, so far so good.
Did you connect one battery to the left battery in the engine compartment, and another batt to the right battery in the engine compartment? Or did you tie both auxillary batteries together and run positive and negative to 1 battery in the engine compartment? Sorry for the rookie questions, just dont want to fubar this up.
Thanks.
I have 2 batteries in the wooden box underdeath the inverter (they're hidden)
Those 2 aux batteries are tied together & charged via high temp 4ga red and 4ga black wire through the slit loom on drivers side and are tied into only the driver side engine battery. (I was able to use 4ga since this is simply a "charging feed". If I wasn't running aux batteries, then I would've needed 2-runs/ea of 2/0 cable.....about 60ft of wire. Thus, in my mind, 2 aux batteries were actually cheaper than the large cable that I would've needed AND provides me w/ more power)
The 2 batteries in the engine compartment are tied together so if you went to either battery that would be sufficient; no need to run your inverter wires to both engine batteries.
Hope this helps.
best of luck.
__________________ y2k F250 7.3 psd Calif emissions, ext cab long bed 265/75/R16 E rated tires, 170k miles 4x4 (nv271 manual t-case) 7.3 #1247981 1/18/00 (forged rods), 3.73LSD, non-diode 4R100, Dp tuner stock, 60t 60e 80t 80e, high idle. DIY 6637 air filter, wicked wheel, turbo master WG controller, turbo lifesaver, bellowed uppies, 4" downpipe & exhaust, triple pod glowshift gauges (egt, tranny, boost), Ride-rite 2330 air bags. Sports a Western plow when the white stuff flies.
Trailers:
I'm usually towing 1 of several trailers I've built.
15ft car hauler (1000lbs empty; 5500lbs loaded)
26ft deck over car hauler (2000lbs empty; 7k loaded)
36ft car hauler (Was tongue pull; have since converted into 5er'. 4500lbs empty; 13k loaded) http://lh4.ggpht.com/_BiLiZujEXVM/Sx...2/IMG_2308.JPG
Thanks.
I have 2 batteries in the wooden box underdeath the inverter (they're hidden)
Those 2 aux batteries are tied together & charged via high temp 4ga red and 4ga black wire through the slit loom on drivers side and are tied into only the driver side engine battery. (I was able to use 4ga since this is simply a "charging feed". If I wasn't running aux batteries, then I would've needed 2-runs/ea of 2/0 cable.....about 60ft of wire. Thus, in my mind, 2 aux batteries were actually cheaper than the large cable that I would've needed AND provides me w/ more power)
The 2 batteries in the engine compartment are tied together so if you went to either battery that would be sufficient; no need to run your inverter wires to both engine batteries.
Hope this helps.
best of luck.
That does help tremendously. So if Im just running aux batteries off the stock battery, I really dont need heavier wire? Im gonna do some research but thats good to know so I can save a few bucks!!
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01' 7.3 4X4 DRK MTLC BLU, DP Tuner F5, AEM Intake, 4" Turboback Silverline Exhaust, BTS VB, AEM digital gauges(pyro, boost controller, trans temp), CCV mod, Rebuilt Injectors, Fuel tank Mods, 203T, 6.0 Trans Cooler, 185,000K and original tranny, so far so good.
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