1999-2007 General QuestionsGeneral questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.
I have a 2002 F250. The driver's side power window switch has been intermittently working on the "up" part of the switch the last few weeks. Down as well as auto down has always worked fine. Just the up part of the switch has been giving me problems. Well, like an idiot I rolled down the window on the way home from work since it was a nice afternoon, and you guessed it. The switch finally went out. I can't by Ford or a new switch for a few days. Anyone have a clue which pins in the connector rolls the window up? I believe the plug on the back of the switch has 6 pins IIRC.
Any help is appreciated on how to get the window up to get me thru the next few days as well as any info on where to find the cheapest switch. I believe I have to replace all 4 switches in one unit rather than just the one bad switch???
I did a search, but can't find any threads that help.
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'02 F250, CC, 4X4, Lariat, 7.3L, AFE Stage II, MBRP 4" turbo back, DiPricol Optix Gauges w/A-pillar mount, DP 5-position Tuner (stock, light tow, econ, race, high idle), DR 4.5" Lift, DR Sig Shocks, BFG 315 AT's on 17X10 Black Mojave's
There are many instances where the contacts inside the switches get so dirty that the switch fails to activate...also instances where the wires in the boot between the door and the body fray and finally break. Your problem could be either. First thing would be to check to see if power is getting to the switch, then go from there.
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December, '02 build F-250 CC 4X4 Lariat 6.0/Torqshift,Toreador Red over Arizona Beige 4X4 FX4 w/ moon roof. Stull grill insert, chromed tow hooks/bed tie downs, painted door handles, King Ranch flares, '08 aluminum differential cover, Inyati bed liner, Edge 3" lift Bonspeed eight spoke wheels w/BFG AT KO 305/65R18s Pics http://community.webshots.com/user/going_going_gone
There are many instances where the contacts inside the switches get so dirty that the switch fails to activate...also instances where the wires in the boot between the door and the body fray and finally break. Your problem could be either. First thing would be to check to see if power is getting to the switch, then go from there.
How do you get to the contracts on the switch? Does the toggle switch pop off? Also, how do you check for power? There is one plug that connects to the back part of the 4 switches with 5 or 6 pins. I forget which. Which pins do I check?
I've taken the one circuit board off the back, but it looks like the 4 switches are connected to another circuit board.
Any info on how to break the switch further down without breaking something is greatly appreciated.
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'02 F250, CC, 4X4, Lariat, 7.3L, AFE Stage II, MBRP 4" turbo back, DiPricol Optix Gauges w/A-pillar mount, DP 5-position Tuner (stock, light tow, econ, race, high idle), DR 4.5" Lift, DR Sig Shocks, BFG 315 AT's on 17X10 Black Mojave's
Well, I got the window up. Here's how for those having the same problem or about to have the problem:
1) Pull the switch panel out. Lift up on the front of the switch panel just under the power mirror switch. The clip should pop out then slid the panel forward. Unplug all the connectors to the switches. There were 4 on my Crew Cab (mirror, front windows, back windows, and locks)
2) Pop the cover off the light on door panel. There is a slot in the front to pop it off and the back slides out.
3) Take the two 8mm screws out of the door panel. There is one screw at the back of opening next to the door handle where the switch panel came out. The other screw is where the light cover came off.
4) Remove the black panel just above where the power mirror switch sits. (This might not be necessary, but I removed mine.) There are two clips, and it pops right out.
5) Remove the door panel. It will slide up about 1" before you can remove it. There are several (6-8) pegs that slide in a slit that hold the door in place. Once the panel is free, you will have to twist the light out of the socket so you can sit the panel to the side.
6) Remove the speaker. There are 4 7/16" screws. Unplug the speaker and sit to the side.
7) In the hole where the speaker was removed sits the power window motor. Unplug the connector to the motor. Notice there are two wires to the motor.
8) You will need a 12V hot and ground to connect to the two pins in the connector on the back side of the motor. I did not pay attention to which polarity makes the window go up. If the window does not go up, switch your 12V source and ground to the opposite pins on the motor. The window will go up.
Now I guess it's time to run to Ford and let them break it off in me for an OEM switch panel.
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'02 F250, CC, 4X4, Lariat, 7.3L, AFE Stage II, MBRP 4" turbo back, DiPricol Optix Gauges w/A-pillar mount, DP 5-position Tuner (stock, light tow, econ, race, high idle), DR 4.5" Lift, DR Sig Shocks, BFG 315 AT's on 17X10 Black Mojave's
WAIT! If you are still having problems after cleaning the contacts or have it apart, make sure you look at the plastic insert that actually actuates the contacts. Mine was so worn out that I completely lost my up button as well. I took one of the inserts from the back door and put it in the front driver side. If I remember right they should all be the same desgn, but the driver side utilizes both sides of the plastic piece. If you have it all apart then you will see what I mean.
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