General QuestionsGeneral questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.
Do I bi#(h or fix um and shut up. My personal opinion is that it is mighty early to have such a problem, but it is out of warranty. Do I get into another match with the dealer or just repair.
Ftch m up,
You could drive yourself nut's and try your luck with the Dealer but I think it would be a loosing battle.
All suspension components are wearable items and will do just that: WEAR OUT.
One think you might do is replace the uppers AND the lowers at the same time, I replaced mine with MOOG brand because they come with Zirc Fittings in them and that way you can have them lubed when you change your oil...
The OEM units do not have these?
JR44
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2003, F-250, 6.0L PSD, Torqueshift, CrewCab, XLT,FX4,Short Bed, All Black Sport Model, Sunroof, Line-X Bed Liner, AFE Stage1 Pro-Guard 7, DPPI/MBRP T-304 Stainless Turbo-Back Exhaust, complete with CNC machined collar!
Banks Tecni-Cooler, Front,Rear Diff & 5R110 Mag-Hytec Pans, AutoMeter Cobalt Boost,EGT,Trans Gauges on A-Pillar, Bridgestone 285 Revo's, Bilsteins,SSBC V8 BRAKE CALIPERS, POWERSLOT CRYO ROTORS, Lund Smoke Bug Shield and Weathertech's AeroVisors on all windows. 16YR N.R.A. member, 14YR D.U. member, 10YR N.W.T.F. member. 5YR Delta Waterfowl member. www.rntcalls.com
Mine went out early too. I researched it also at the time and decided I didn't want FORD to install the same old Factory crap as I originally had so decided to buy Lifetime Warrantied Greesable Ball Joints and never have to deal with it again. I installed them myself in combination with installing the Dynatrac Free Spin 35 spline WARN hubs kit to solve a bunch of other factory equipment failures at the same time... I had 37" tires and a lift and figured they'd giive me a hard time about warranty-ing the parts anyway...
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** SMD '04 F250 SD King Ranch delivered 8/19/04 LOOKS BETTER THAN SHE RUNS! **
28% Tint, Leer 100XL Cap, DR Edge 7" hybrid lift w/ 5" rear leafs, 37x13.5x17 Toyo MT's, Draw-Tite portable winch mount, WARN xD9000i, MBRP Duals, 4.56's w/ F&R ARB's, original motor blown @ 31,000..! Dynatrac Free Spin Dana 60 35 spline stubs kit, PIAA 520 ATPs, PICS
Any decent auto shop can do that job so don't let the dealer steal your money. I saved over $300 by letting a hometown shop do mine and they used Moog greasable ball joints.
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2008 Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7
2004 F-250 CC Lariat FX4 6.0 PSD with 132K miles (traded)
I agree, a good shop can do the job for probably half what the dealer will charge installing the same weak non-greasable joints. The job itself is not too difficult if you are mechanically inclined and have the tools. A happy day for me was when I took a look at the new 450s at the car show and saw grease fittings on the ball joints, top and bottom, and on the universal joints. They will last a long time.
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2008 F-450 Lariat Dark Stone Metallic over Pueblo Gold 4x4(manual shift transfer case, manual hubs), High capacity tow 4:88s, Off Road, Camper packages, Sirius Sat, Upfitter switches, DVD entertainment, tailgate step, traction control, Audiophile 6-disc, PTC Supplemental heat and heated seats(warm buns), rear sensors, traction control, tailgate step. Built May 8, delivered May 24
Reese Signature Series 24k fiver hitch, I installed it myself, best hitch I have found yet
Line-X bedliner, heavy duty floor mats
2003 Sunline F281SR(weekend getaways)
SeaRay 215EC http://community.webshots.com/user/C...host=community
I also want to know how you can tell the upper ball joints are bad. I know my factory shocks didn't make it to 50k before I could tell they where in poor shape.
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1999 F-250 SD Auto SC, SCMT, 3 guage set, 3.5 into 4 exhaust, rear air bags, electric EBV
2003 F-250 SD Auto CC 6.0
40' tri-axle goose
24' tri-axle bumper
20' dual axle bumper
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RobF15E</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I also want to know how you can tell the upper ball joints are bad. I know my factory shocks didn't make it to 50k before I could tell they where in poor shape.</div></div>
I would like to know this too.
Lift the truck up under the frame at the wheel you want to check. Take a pipe or good 2x4 put near the tire lift up on the tire, if the ball joint is bad it will move and you can see movement as well in the ball joint, if it's tight you have no issues.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: broome101</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lift the truck up under the frame at the wheel you want to check. Take a pipe or good 2x4 put near the tire lift up on the tire, if the ball joint is bad it will move and you can see movement as well in the ball joint, if it's tight you have no issues.</div></div>
Thanks!!!
After my truck was hit in the left front wheel, they tried to do an alinement and the body shop couldn't do it, so they sent it to a front end shop and they told me the uppers are going. I will check them myself and look into the Moogs. Thanks for the replies!!!!!!! MP
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AggieFord4x4</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How do you 'know' they are bad? I had a couple shops tell me my ball joints were going out on my old dodge at 40,000.
Well, its at 150,000 now and i have yet to replace them or see any 'issues' with them. </div></div>
When I would roll forward from a stop and step on the brakes I would get a light "clunk" sound in the front end, then when I rolled back in reverse and hit the brakes I would hear it again.
Mine was covered under warranty, so no big deal to me. I know a couple guys that theirs started doing the same, but without having a warranty they let them go until they hit about 60,000 miles before they changed them.
Linear Mode
