Bleeding the brakes - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Go Back   Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties > 1999-2007 General Questions

1999-2007 General Questions General questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

TheDieselstop.com is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-16-2007, 07:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Carpenter, Wyoming
Posts: 11
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Bleeding the brakes

Right rear caliper stuck on my 2002 f350, and before I got the chance to get the rotors turned and new pads on I ruined both. I have the new rotor and caliper on but I am having trouble bleeding the sytem. Do I need to pull the abs fuse? Being a one ton I had to pull the floating axle. I am still wondering what the torque spec if any is required on the bearing retainer nut.

Thank you

Brant2289
Brant2289 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 05-16-2007, 07:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
klhansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Eagle River, Alaska
Posts: 20,607
My Photos: (175)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: Bleeding the brakes

I don't think there's a need to do anything with the ABS to bleed the brakes, but the local brake guru FMTRVT (Jack) may come along and see your post. He'll know for sure.

Here's the info on the bearing nut (I'm asuming it's an SRW truck, not a dually, let me know if that's not correct)

Tighten the hub nut, rotating the rear hub occasionally while tightening. The hub nut will ratchet as torque is applied. Tighten to 60 ft lb torque.

Adjust hub nuts as follows:
For new bearings, ratchet back five teeth or notches (1/8 turn) on the hub nut. Five notches must be felt during this operation in order to have performed it correctly.

For used bearings, ratchet back seven teeth or notches (1/6 turn) on the hub nut. Seven notches must be felt during this operation to have performed it correctly.
__________________
First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version), AIS, coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return, heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.

Hard or no-start? Check Here
klhansen is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-16-2007, 07:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Middle of Nowhere, NV
Posts: 141
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: Bleeding the brakes

Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.

Place a box end wrench on the RH rear bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the RH rear bleeder screw and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.

Have an assistant pump the brake pedal and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the RH rear bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw.

Repeat Steps 2, 3, 4 and 5 for the LH rear bleeder screw.
Place a box end wrench on the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.

Have an assistant pump the brake pedal and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw; refer to Specifications in this section.

Repeat Steps 7, 8, 9 and 10 for the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw.


Pressure

Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.

NOTE: Master cylinder pressure bleeder adapter tools are available from various manufacturers of pressure bleeding equipment. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer when installing the adapter.

Install the bleeder adapter to the brake master cylinder reservoir, and attach the bleeder tank hose to the fitting on the adapter.
NOTE: Bleed the longest line first. Make sure the bleeder tank contains enough specified brake fluid to complete the bleeding operation.

Place a box end wrench on the RH rear bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the RH rear bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.

Open the valve on the bleeder tank.
Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw. Leave open until clear, bubble-free brake fluid flows, then tighten the RH rear bleeder screw and remove the rubber hose.

Continue bleeding the rear of the system, going in order from the LH rear bleeder screw to the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw ending with the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Close the bleeder tank valve. Remove the tank hose from the adapter, and remove the adapter.
__________________
1999 F-350 - CC/LB, gauges, 40K trans-cooler & external filtration & drain, 203 t-stat mod, Mag-Tech Trans & Diff. cover, AIS filtration, zoodad, HPO x-over, Jody Tipton 40HP tow PCM, Hutch mod and harpooned, Baldwin prepump fuel filter

"Better to be judged by 12, than carried by six!"
nlemerise is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-16-2007, 08:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Carpenter, Wyoming
Posts: 11
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: Bleeding the brakes

It is a dual rear wheel.
Sorry, I left that out
Thanks [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
Brant2289 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-17-2007, 10:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: American Fork, Utah
Posts: 566
My Photos: (14)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: Bleeding the brakes

The only thing that I would add to 8v92tta's quite complete instuctions is, when your assistant pushes the pedal and holds, the pedal will travel farther down than normal. That can be a bad thing for the master cylinder and its seals. Putting a 2 X 4 under the brake pedal to limit the travel is a good idea. It will only take you a few more pumps to complete the job and the chance of crud fouling up the seals in the master cylinder will be gone.

Just my 2 cents.

Jon in American Fork
__________________
2002 F-250 Lariat 4X4 Auto PSD CC SRW. Banks 4" Monster Exh, aFe Stage II w/PG 7, TAG II + Hi-Perf Comp Wheel, X-Monitor, SCMT 1705, fuel tank and pre-pump mods, harpooned tank, Zoodad air, always bright overhead, fuel regulator shim, HX oil hose, 2003 Lighted Mirrors, 203* T Stat, Rancho 9000XLs, C-Btr Mirrors, Roll-N-Lock bed cover, Brakesmart and Titan V. 6.0 Tranny Cooler, door seal mod, Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads, HIDs installed in '05 headlights.

My Pictures
JonH is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-17-2007, 10:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
Member
 
jarheadatunm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Murrieta, CA
Posts: 90
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: Bleeding the brakes

If you think you will do this regularly on all your vehicles, I would highly suggest a Motive brake bleeder kit. Fill it up, attach to the reservoir, pump up to pressure, start bleeding by yourself! It is one of the best tools I have bought. The self-closing bleeder valves are pretty good setup from what I have heard also, but I have never used them.
__________________
2000 F250 PSD, 4x4, Red
Banks 4" Exhaust, Big-head Wastegate, DP tuner Chip (80econ, 60 tow, 100 race...), AFE Stage II, TN .84, Spearco 6.0 retro-IC, EBPV removed, Ram-air Mod, BWD bellowed up-pipes, Trans rebuild with upgraded steels, low-stall TC and Tugger shift-kit
Mag-Hytec trans and diff covers, full gauges
jarheadatunm is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-17-2007, 01:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: S.Cal
Posts: 481
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: Bleeding the brakes

SpeedBleeders [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
__________________
'02 F-250 Lariat CC SB SRW
Drivetrain:7.3L PSD, 4WD, Auto, 3:73 LS
Fuel Mods:Hutch Pre-Pump Mod w/Purolator F50154, 55-gallon AeroTank midship replacement tank
Chassis Mods:ART frozen slotted rotors, PF Carbon Metallic Pads, Stainless SpeedBleeders, Bilstein 2818/2819, BFG MT 285/75-R16
Fluids and Filters:Mobil Delvac 1 w/M1-601 synthetic element filter, Mobil 1 ATF w/Magnafine Filter, ATE Super Blue brake fluid
Accessories:Viper 791xv alarm and remote start, Ford AIC w/ITP relocation bracket, AIS, Fumoto Valve, 24" Bosch Micro-Edge Excel blades, Dash Designs Cover, Xtreme Catch-All matts, 84" folding Dog ramp, SnugTop Extra Vision shell, Wet Okole seat covers
NRTS is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties > 1999-2007 General Questions

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Wheel & Tire Center

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:42 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.