General QuestionsGeneral questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.
Truck truns sharply to the left when i brake. I know it has something to do with the caliper pins but I have greased both sides and it still pulls. I replaced both calipers, brakes and rotors in the front. A month later truck starts pulling to the left. Is there a particular side i should be paying more attention to?
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1999.5 F350 Lariat 4x4 7.3 PSD tymar air intake, moog ball joints, rhino liner, 8 ft. min. mt. fisher plow ----- 3/04' 6.0 F350XL PSD 4x4 dually dump, moog ball joints, 9' min. mt.2 fisher plow
The left side would be the one grabbing, if it pulls that way. But I would never just replace one side. ARE you sure the pins are free, and lubed up? What pads did you use...what rotors? I bought Wagner LIFETIME rotors from O'rileys for my 99. Going to need brakes all the way around on the Dually soon, 170k miles, the last 50k with allot of heavy towing.
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Jim T.*48* SLAPS Co-Founder, 30.8 yrs RETIRED UAW 6/01/06, Now a full time Technician in the MOANG 12/10/07 My pics! and my New'03 Dually pics!, Charcoal Grey, Black and Grey interior, Black leather seats, Van Turbo/ATS ported housing/WW, Quad "A" pillar pod with Carbon Fiber series AUTO METER Gauges, FUMOTO Valve. BTS BUBBA" /TS 4pos chip, 4" Turbo back straight pipe/stainless 5" tip 131st F/W St.Louis MoAirNatlGuard We're losing the F-15s. BUT BEING HANDED THE KEYS TO THE B-2 BOMBERS at WHITMAN AFB, Near Kansas City, MO.!! We are Lindburghs OWN! Suffering from *PMS,, "Powerstroke mod syndrome"
Alright I cant figure out this pull to the left when braking. I have taken apart both sides, cleaned and regreased the slide pins. Still pulls to the left. When I press the pedal should both pistons come out simultaneously or does one come out first with the least resistance? I had the caliper off on the drivers side, pressed the brake down and only one piston is coming out. I didnt do it to the other side but seems odd that only one piston is coing out?
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1999.5 F350 Lariat 4x4 7.3 PSD tymar air intake, moog ball joints, rhino liner, 8 ft. min. mt. fisher plow ----- 3/04' 6.0 F350XL PSD 4x4 dually dump, moog ball joints, 9' min. mt.2 fisher plow
Alright I cant figure out this pull to the left when braking. I have taken apart both sides, cleaned and regreased the slide pins. Still pulls to the left. When I press the pedal should both pistons come out simultaneously or does one come out first with the least resistance? I had the caliper off on the drivers side, pressed the brake down and only one piston is coming out. I didnt do it to the other side but seems odd that only one piston is coing out?
FMTRVT always recommends switching the pads from side to side to see if the pull follows the pads.
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2002 F350 Lariat CC 4x4 Auto 4.10 DRW, DP-Tuner F5 live tuned stock, quiet, 40dd, 40, 60, 80 tow, 80e and 120r, B&W GN, BrakeSmart, 'pooned tank, tank and pre-pump mods, 2µ Dahl 100 filter, regulated return, BTS dual HPOP, AC singles with EDM 34 lpm nozzles, AIS, H2e, Spearco 6.0 IC, Hypermax 3.5" dp--> MBRP 4" 304SS exhaust, BTS tranny, 203º T-stat, Chevron ELC, coolant filter, Oilguard bypass with Schaeffer 9000, WranglerNW 200 amp alternator & Optima group 31 batteries, Nippon-Denso starter, SPA gauges, SteveRacer mods, Hella 80/100W 9007s, Hella Micro DE foglights, 1000FF driving lights, 220W backup lights, Stancor contactor, Michelin XPS Traction tires, X-Springs, Bilstein shox, custom bumpers but otherwise stock. Nov 30 '99 build engine with 16 K miles, Fluidampr, Comp Cam 910 springs, Melling LPOP and ARP headstuds. Alien-Patrol Customer Service Sucks!
Truck truns sharply to the left when i brake. I know it has something to do with the caliper pins but I have greased both sides and it still pulls. I replaced both calipers, brakes and rotors in the front. A month later truck starts pulling to the left. Is there a particular side i should be paying more attention to?
Perhaps it is due to the rear brakes?
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2002 F350 Lariat CC 4x4 Auto 4.10 DRW, DP-Tuner F5 live tuned stock, quiet, 40dd, 40, 60, 80 tow, 80e and 120r, B&W GN, BrakeSmart, 'pooned tank, tank and pre-pump mods, 2µ Dahl 100 filter, regulated return, BTS dual HPOP, AC singles with EDM 34 lpm nozzles, AIS, H2e, Spearco 6.0 IC, Hypermax 3.5" dp--> MBRP 4" 304SS exhaust, BTS tranny, 203º T-stat, Chevron ELC, coolant filter, Oilguard bypass with Schaeffer 9000, WranglerNW 200 amp alternator & Optima group 31 batteries, Nippon-Denso starter, SPA gauges, SteveRacer mods, Hella 80/100W 9007s, Hella Micro DE foglights, 1000FF driving lights, 220W backup lights, Stancor contactor, Michelin XPS Traction tires, X-Springs, Bilstein shox, custom bumpers but otherwise stock. Nov 30 '99 build engine with 16 K miles, Fluidampr, Comp Cam 910 springs, Melling LPOP and ARP headstuds. Alien-Patrol Customer Service Sucks!
Rear brakes? Really? Cant see why that would be the issue
You need to read some of FMTRVTs posts. The rear brakes can also cause a pull to either direction. You replaced the front brakes rotors, pads and calipers and still have the problem. Either there is a hose or torque bracket problem in the front (only thing left assuming the parts and installation are correct) or perhaps it is the rear brakes?
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2002 F350 Lariat CC 4x4 Auto 4.10 DRW, DP-Tuner F5 live tuned stock, quiet, 40dd, 40, 60, 80 tow, 80e and 120r, B&W GN, BrakeSmart, 'pooned tank, tank and pre-pump mods, 2µ Dahl 100 filter, regulated return, BTS dual HPOP, AC singles with EDM 34 lpm nozzles, AIS, H2e, Spearco 6.0 IC, Hypermax 3.5" dp--> MBRP 4" 304SS exhaust, BTS tranny, 203º T-stat, Chevron ELC, coolant filter, Oilguard bypass with Schaeffer 9000, WranglerNW 200 amp alternator & Optima group 31 batteries, Nippon-Denso starter, SPA gauges, SteveRacer mods, Hella 80/100W 9007s, Hella Micro DE foglights, 1000FF driving lights, 220W backup lights, Stancor contactor, Michelin XPS Traction tires, X-Springs, Bilstein shox, custom bumpers but otherwise stock. Nov 30 '99 build engine with 16 K miles, Fluidampr, Comp Cam 910 springs, Melling LPOP and ARP headstuds. Alien-Patrol Customer Service Sucks!
I had the same problem on my truck. Had the shop flushed and bleed the brakes VERY thoroughly at all 4 corners. That fixed it. I feel that the problem was probably in the rear brakes, but there's no way to know for sure.
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2000 F-350 Crew-Cab Lariat 4x4 SRW
Tymar intake, ART rotors, SS HX Crossover, Magnaflow exhaust, ISSPRO gauges, DP-Tuner 6-Position chip, Wicked Wheel, Non-EBV pedistal and exhaust outlet, John Wood transmission with billet torque converter (it ROCKS!!)
I think i need to replace the brake hose on front drivers side. the rubber hose that goes from the caliper to the brake line. Anyone ever done this, seems pretty basic but would like any instructions if anyone has any.
Thanks
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1999.5 F350 Lariat 4x4 7.3 PSD tymar air intake, moog ball joints, rhino liner, 8 ft. min. mt. fisher plow ----- 3/04' 6.0 F350XL PSD 4x4 dually dump, moog ball joints, 9' min. mt.2 fisher plow
I've seen the flexible brake lines cause this on a few vehicles.
The change is pretty basic. The thing you have to be careful about is not twising the hard line fitting. Be sure to use a wrench on both sides. If its rusty on the undercarriage, use a little fresh brake fluid on the fitting and banjo bolt (use this instead of anything oil based, if oil gets into the brake system = really bad).
You are going to lose some fluid, so have a pan under it. I like to loosen each side of the line first. Have the new line near by, then remove the old line and install the new line hand tight as quickly as possible. This way you don't make as big of a mess.
When tightening the line, do the caliper side first. Then make sure the line has natural bends (no kinks) up to the frame and tighten the frame side (2 wrenches again).
Make sure to use 2 new copper seals (washers) on the banjo fitting. Torque it per manual.
Scrapin,
fwiw, I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. I would exit off the freeway to hang a right at an intersection, and when I would apply the brakes, the right front brakes would grab bad enough to almost throw me into the curb.
I took the truck to a brake guy that I started using. He checked caliper pins, rotors, pads, etc. Everything looked practically brand new. He had one of his mechanics crawl up and snug up the front and rear abs sensors, and I haven't had the problem since. He said that he thinks the Ford ABS gets a false signal on braking and starts controlling one side of the brakes, not both, throwing you into a sharp brake pull.
Anyway, thought I'd mention it as a no-cost possible fix.
short_stuff
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Y2K F250 CC PSD Auto, Short-bed Lariat, Woodland Green/Gold, ordered 07/10/99, born 09/12/99, delivered 10/08/99, Access bed cover, Bed Rug, Zoodad mod, Viper Remote Start Alarm, Fumoto valve, 103K somewhat error-free miles (so far) [never back to dealer for anything]
Repairs: CPS, Water Separator Valve assembly, rear axle bearings, VSS, batteries, brakes, alternator, serpentine belt (x2), driver door pwrlock actuator, water pump
2003 VW Jetta TDI auto, 90k miles, all stock, no mods, 41 mpg most days. A rocket in disguise...
Repairs: alternator, brake switch (x2), power window wire harness, #4 glow plug, glow plug wire harness
On order - 2009 VW Tiguan (2.0 l turbo gas engine to take advantage of $1.79 fuel prices [for now])- should arrive off the boat soon.
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