1999-2007 General QuestionsGeneral questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.
My 2003 F-350 DRW has 57k miles on it. I want to change the oil in both the front and rear differentials. I bought it used 8k miles ago, so I do not know when it was last done. From looking @ the rear I take it that the cover has to be removed to change the oil. I have not looked @ the front one yet. We are going on a 2k mile trip pulling out travel trailer and want to start fresh. I assume I need to buy both a front and rear gasket and the gear lube. I would appreciate any input on this process. Looks pretty straight forward but it never hurts to ask. Thanks
2003 F-350 DRW Lariat CC 6.0 Fx4 Auto
You have a Dana 80 rear axle and a Dana 60 front axle.
They both require synthetic gear lube.
Ford recently advised their techs to refill the Dana 80 rear axle with synthetic 75w140 gear lube.
For the front you can get some argument. Your Owner's Guide says synthetic 75w90. The current workshop manual says:
SAE 90 Premium Rear Axle Lubricant, Ford part number C2AZ-19580-F, Ford specification ESW-M2C105-A
I'm not positive, but I'm pretty sure that's a synthetic gear lube.
If it were mine, I'd for sure use synthetic gear lube, but whether it was 75w90 or 90w wouldn't matter much.
The technique described in the Workshop manual is identical for both diffs.
[*] Remove all but one top bolt. Loosen that one bolt but don't take it out yet.
[*] The gasket is a silicon RTV stuff, so use a putty knife or flat-blade screwdriver and break the seal near the bottom of the diff. It will make a big mess when draining if you're not carefull. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
[*] After it drains good, remove the last bolt and the cover.
[*] Use clean rags to mop all the lube out of the bottom of the diff. Inspect the visible parts for excess wear. Clean up the mating surfaces to get rid of all the old RTF. Use brake cleaner to get both mating surfaces squeeky clean, but don't let any get into the diff.
[*] Use high-temp silicon RTV gasket maker and put a bead of RTV on the mating surface and around all the holes on the diff cover.
Put two bolts through the cover at the top of the cover, at about 12 o'clock and 8 o'clock, and start those two bolts without messing up your nice bead of RTV. Then push the cover to the diff and finger tighten those two bolts. Then finger tighten all the other bolts in the diff cover.
[*] Tighten the bolts alternately and evenly to 35 lb-ft.
[*] Allow at least 1 hour cure time before filling the axle with the correct amount of specified lubricant.
If you are going to add friction modifier for limited slip axles, then add it after you have at least one quart of lube poured in.
Note: This procedure requires you to use RTV to make your own gasket. But if that sounds like a pain, then you can buy regular diff cover gaskets at most auto parts stores. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.
Unless your truck was used for heavy pulling you may be a little early. I change mine every 100k. I would highly recommend Amsoil. I have 270k of regular pulling miles and never had to touch the front or rear diff. You also dont have to add friction modifier for a litle while with Amsoil. I found the Dodge/Mopar friction modifier to be best out there. It lasts for about 30,000 to 50,000 miles.
Also with Amsoil I quit baking the paint off of my rear diff. It really is good stuff. Amsoil is available from several sponsors on this site but I get mine from Bob Riley. He knows exacly what you need and how much. I think it is 75-140 syn in the rear and synthetic 90wt up front.
Front and rear diff oil change is easy, but you and your truck will stink for a while. A oil bottle cap with a flexible hose will make things easier to fill. You could also use a suction gun (like a big syringe with a flexible hose on the end) The fill hole on the rear diff is on the side of the diff and you use a 3/8 ratchet to remove. The front diff fill is on the cover and it will be obvious. Make sure that you get the cover gasket surface and diff sealing surface absolutely clean and oil free. I give it a liberal dose of spray carb cleaner and wipe it down.
Make sure you feel the bottom of the diff for chunks of metal. I have never found any...but it would be bad if you do.
The factory paint of the rear diff will likely be baked off. If it is, clean it up and repaint it with regular spray paint (not high heat) The new paint can work to be an indicator of a problem if it starts to bake off.
If your new oil is really cold, fill the sink with hot water and warm the new stuff up. Even synthetic is harder to pour cold. This step will really speed things up.
While you are under there, tak a 10mm allen wrench and drain the tranfer case fluid. Fill it with 2 qts of Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid.
Good luck (getting the smell of of you) The rest is easy
99 XLT,PSD,CC,SB, 4x4, Manual T-case and hubs, auto trans, 3:73 Limited slip,Straight piped, Amsoil and Dodge LS Additive in the rear, Diamond B Brush Guard, AFE MAgnum intake/Pro guard 7 filter, Isspro Gauges on A-piller, SCMT 60 or 80hp, 203 T-Stat, Billit Housing
IF YOU HAVE EATEN TODAY, THANK A FARMER!!
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This one statement caught my eye. Question: Why?
When I did my rear just before our big summer trip, I added the modifier to the first quart that went in.
[/ QUOTE ]
You done good.
The objective is to be sure that stinky friction modifier gets mixed in good with the lube. If you pour in the additive first, it will stick to the case and take several miles to mix in with the lube. If you pour it in last, it will also take several miles for it to mix in good. But pre-mixing it with the first or second quart of lube oil is a good deed. Or pouring it in in the middle of the fill should also mix it up pretty good.
If you don't know how much additive you'll need, then add the minimum amount in the middle of pouring in the lube. Then if you have to later add some more, it's going to be added on top of the lube. So that's why you need to drive it a few miles after you add the friction modifier on top of the lube before you do the figure 8 test again.
My rear bearings went at around 50k miles, and up to that point, the heaviest thing I had towed was a utility trailer with about 2000 pounds of stuff on it. Maybe it was the 3/4 ton of tile that I carried in the bed for 40 miles one day? My point being that whether the truck is pampered (like mine) or abused, the 100k mile rear differential interval that ford mentions in their owner's guide is hogwash. You shouldn't run the risk of the rear wheels almost falling off before you change your differential oil. imho
Y2K F250 CC PSD Auto, Short-bed Lariat, Woodland Green/Gold, ordered 07/10/99, born 09/12/99, delivered 10/08/99, RollX bed cover, Bed mat, Zoodad mod, Viper Remote Start Alarm, Fumoto valve, undercoated, 131k somewhat error-free miles (so far) [never back to dealer for anything] , Edge Evolution (testing 60 HP setting), Pioneer DVD/CD/iPod/XM satellite
Repairs: CPS, Water Separator Valve assembly, rear axle bearings, VSS, batteries, brakes, alternator, serpentine belt (x2), all 4 power lock actuators, water pump, air conditioning lines
2009 VW Tiguan 2.0 l turbo 200 hp gas engine (TDI engine not available for it yet)
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