Electrical Pro needed!!!

[NCHornet]

I need some help and since I have a shematic but don't really understand how to read it so I am asking the help from someone who might. I noticed today that my drivers side rear window would not go down with using the drivers switch or the door switch on the rear door. I removed the door panel and pulled the plug that goes to the motor. When I put the switch on the rear door in the up position I get 12 volts, when I hit the switch to lower the window I get nothing. I also noticed that when I operate the drivers door switch for that window in either position I get zero voltage. I am not sure if the problem lies in the drivers door switch or elsewhere? If someone that knows how to read a schematic could check this out I would appreciate it very, very much!!!
Thanks
Kevin

[NCHornet]

Somebody has to know how to read a schematic? I would really like to resolve this issue. Thanks
NCH

[nitrogen]

without access to this schematic i can only guess, but if its not too much work pull off the drivers door panel and check for power coming out of the rear left window switch. can you post the schematic or a pic of the pages with window wiring?

[NCHornet]

I will try and post a copy later this evening. Thanks for the help.

NCH

[RatherBNtheWoods]

Does the driver door have the anti-kid switch or what ever it's called that disables the rear windows? Maybe it's bad/unpluged.

[Flat_Panel]

Send me a copy of the schematic and I can take a look at it.

[Diesel313]

What voltage do you get from the main switch when pushing the button. The 2 wires are gray/orange and yellow and light blue. Make sure the key is on.

[NCHornet]

I disconnected the plug for the motor and placed the probes of my meter into the two terminals in the plug. When I raise the window with that rear door switch I get 12 volts, when I lower the window I get 0 volts. When I use the drivers window switch I get zero volts in the up or down position. I have the child lock out switch, but this isn't the problem, all the other windows function as normal. I am wondering if the lowering circuit runs through the drivers switch and the drivers switch is where my problem lies. I will try and post this schematic for y'all. I appreciate the help.
Kevin

[NCHornet]

Okay here is the schematic, I really appreciate the help!!!





Here is a direct link if that will help you view it.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...net/img014.jpg

[klhansen]

Kevin,

I agree that's one of the most confusing schematics out there, but maybe I can help out.

Basically, the switches are in parallel, and what they do is change the power polarity to run the motors up and down. There's no direct ground at the motor, it has to go back thru the switch to complete the circuit. So if you put your meter in each of the terminals at the motor connector, you should get zero volts when the switch is in neutral, +12V in one position and -12V in the other position. On the upstream side of the switch, there should be 12V on the two outer contacts and the center one should be grounded. This of course assumes that the delay relay isn't timed out, cutting power to the whole deal.

I think you actually have two switches bad, the driver's one in both positions and the rear door one in only one position. Has any water gotten on the switches? You might be able to take them out, disassemble, and clean the contacts, but it might be less trouble just to replace them. I know that the mirror switch has similar problems and they're less than $20.

Good luck.
Kevin

[prohydroracer]

Since you are testing for power in both directions at the motor leads, make sure and use a digital volt meter as it will measure in both directions (+12 volts and -12 volts), whereas an analog (needle type) meter usually just measures in one direction which is +12 volts.

If using an analog meter and you get +12 volts in one direction but nothing the other way, try reversing your red and black leads to the opposite terminals (of the window motor lead) and see if you get +12 volts in the other direction and not the other. Make sense?

Mike

[NCHornet]

Kevin,
Thanks for the help!!! No water has gotten into the switches that I know of. I am using a digital meter. There are only two terminals in the connector that runs to the motor. You are right, if I place the probes in each hole I get +12 volts, if I reverse them I get -12 volts with the switch in the "up" position, the problem is when I move the switch to the down position I get zero volts. I think that chances of blowing two switches is pretty rare but I think I will call Powerstrokeshop.com and order two new switches. I have already had to replace the mirror switch once. Thanks
Kevin

[NCHornet]

I think to troubleshoot this problem I will pull the pass rear door panel and see what voltage I get there and at the drivers door switch. Maybe I can switch the drivers door switch from side to side, meaning put the right rear switch in the left rear position, if the rear window works properly then I know I only need the drivers front switch. IIRC doesn't the drivers switch panel have all four switches in one unit? If so this may not work, I will have to look. I notice the rear switch is about $30 and the drivers switch is $50. I will let you know what I find out.

NCH

[GrampyJim]

At the left rear window switch... unplug the switch... check continuity to ground on circuits 316 and 317.... once you find which one has no continuity, open the bellows between the truck and the drivers door to determine how many other circuits are broken or nealry so....

[NCHornet]

Jim,
Could you explain this in Shadetree terms? Which circuits are 316 and 317? Also I don't understand the last part of your reply. I will be tearing into this on Sat. I was hoping it was just a bad switch.

NCH