1999-2007 General QuestionsGeneral questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.
Hi everyone, my son has a 2007 F-250 diesel with those factory installed upfitter switches. We did manage to locate the blunt end wires behind the fuse box as described in the owners manual, however, none have any power to them when checked with a test light. Yes, the engine was running and all the switches were lit and appeared to be working. We pulled the dash and tapped in directly behind the switches and simply ran new wires, however, these wires seem to be rather small to be 10 amp power sources. Any help out there as to why we would not have any power to the factory wires, such as orange with a green tracer ect ect?? Thanks,
Yea, I'm hoping someone has some input. One correction is that his truck is a 2006, not an 07. We're simply attempting to hook-up some aux lights using these upfitter switches. Thought it would be simple enough too! Never expected to find all the colored wires dead! Something else interesting is that there is no mention as to where to locate those four fuses, 2-10 amp and 2-30 amp. They mention something about looking behind the pass glove box, but those are realys and only 1 5 amp fuse. Like I mentioned in my earlier post, we did just tap in to the switches behind the actual upfitter modual, however, we seem to now have very low voltage? In other words, the one light we hooked up is barely lit.
We did manage to locate the blunt end wires behind the fuse box as described in the owners manual, however, none have any power to them when checked with a test light.
When it comes to automotive electronics, I'm the village idiot. But back when the upfitter switches first were available, I checked into it - only to give the newer truck owners a way to activate the built-in SEIC (stationary elevated idle controller) in the 2005-up PSDs.
My understanding was that the upfitter switches were not connected to anything. And you had to have a lot more info than the Owner's Guide to use them. Here's one link I found that might be what you're looking for.
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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it last year. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat.
Yea, I'm hoping someone has some input. One correction is that his truck is a 2006, not an 07. We're simply attempting to hook-up some aux lights using these upfitter switches. Thought it would be simple enough too! Never expected to find all the colored wires dead! Something else interesting is that there is no mention as to where to locate those four fuses, 2-10 amp and 2-30 amp. They mention something about looking behind the pass glove box, but those are realys and only 1 5 amp fuse. Like I mentioned in my earlier post, we did just tap in to the switches behind the actual upfitter modual, however, we seem to now have very low voltage? In other words, the one light we hooked up is barely lit.
I had the same issue with mine, only to find out I was looking at the wrong wires. Are you sure you're looking at the correct ones? There are a lot of blunt end wires up there. You actually have to drop the fuse box out of the way to get to them. Don't want wire directly to the switches. They only power a relay that gives power to the wires....
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2006 F350 - Amarillo Package,loaded with all the toys, 4" MBRP cat back exhaust, Autometer EGT gauge, Viper 791XV auto start/cool down timer/alarm, Pioneer AVIC-D3 navigation/XM Radio/Sirius, 2.5" Tuff Country Leveling kit, KC Hilights front & rear, Dieselsite.com coolant filter, SkyJacker dual steering stabilizer, Firestone Ride Rite airbags w/onboard compressor, Kleinn Train Horns, Bilsteins all the way around, Recon LED's in the back, Programmed with the SuperChips 1805 Tuner always set on Tow Safe for a little extra get up and go.
30' Cardinal 30TS 5th wheel. The weekend home away from home.
"The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
If I remember correctly, the upfitter switch wires were all orange with different color traces, (blue, green, purple). If they are not orange, then you have the wrong wires.
Godd luck,
Marc
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2005 F-250 Supercab 4x4 Lariat long bed 6 speed, Vegistroke V3 WVO system, integrated brake controller, upfitter switches, TTM, South Texas Outfitters custom front end replacement, Whelen Liberty LED lightbar, Whelen Dominator LED front bar, hidden front strobes, rear LED's and strobes, Rhino liner, Whelen 200 watt siren, Havis Consolidator console, and other hidden goodies. Pictures are in "Shoebox" album. http://community.webshots.com/user/vtfireftr
Thanks for that link. It was sort of helpful. I am certain I have the right blunt end wires, it took all day to find them so they must be the one's ha ha ha. Anyway, there are about 8 all of different colors and tracers. I am sure I got the right one's identified when hitting them with a test light according to the owners manual color code. The book states they are hot only when the key is in the #4 position, or engine running mode for obvious reasons. Huh, they were not hot, in fact none of the 8 down there were hot!! Everything is now working as it should, however, I tapped into the upfitter right where it came out in the back. I see that on another post that this was not a good idea as this runs over to the relays. That's right, but I still get a full 12 volts and all is running. Should I expect to see smoke any time soon? If the factory wires are dead, where would one go to run new wires from the switches. Wo is me......
Well, I guess it's possible I got the wrong group of wires, but I don't think so. We did pull the fuse box down and poked around until we found a group of wires, about 8 had blunt ends, the others we blunt ends with shrink on them. The colo code the owners manual said to look for were clearly visible, like orange with a light blue tracer. I took my test light and stuck it to them and got nothing. Did the same on the other 3 identified in the book. The odd thing to me was that these wires did not look like they were correct gage for 10 or 30 amp???? So what do you think will happen since we tapped in right behind the switches. All seem to be working fine. Shall I be looking for smoke soon? Where else would I go to run my own set of hot wires. BTW, the relays are behind the passengers side glove box just up a bit. There is only one fuse there, and it's only a 5 amper. Go figure................
You are correct about the colors. And yes, I made sure I was poking at the correct one's. I will add that there was one wire that was orange however it had no tracer, and guess what, it was the only hot one I found, and the switches would not turn that one off. I'm going to pull the fuse box again and double check myself since so many of you feel I may have grabbed the wrong wires. Plus, I'm very concerned that I tapped into the switched right behind the modual, and one poster said that could be a big issue. I appreciate all the input, and will post as things surface.
This is the link you need. Sounds like the four fuses are not installed in the CJB that power your switches. The wires you ran are probably powered by the 5 amp control circuit which is not what you want. Good luck
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