Ford 350SD steering wander - Diesel Forum

pursuthis · 03-18-2006, 08:49 PM

Anybody have any info on 99 -02 350SD trucks exhibiting steering wander? - have checekd out Ford's TSB's - only 1 on ball joints. I have checked ball joints / steering components - no wear except to 1 joint on pitman arm which I promptly replaced. Alignment checks out at 1/4 degree neg camber on both sides and 2 degree positive caster. Does anynone have the factory alignment specs? Tires/brake pads are new (replaced by me). I tow a goosenecck equip trailer, but even unloaded,this truck is all over the road (purchased used with 80k on it.) [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

jimmy · 03-18-2006, 09:45 PM

The check for the ball joints is not for wear when it relates to this complaint, it is about binding.
Would you describe the problem as wander due to loose steering or is is it binding?
Binding would be my guess.
You can remove the airbag so you can put a needle gauge torque wrench on steering wheel nut.
With truck on a clean concrete floor where the surface finish is consistent on both spots where front tires are resting, kack up one side and let it back down on a jackstand and then use torque wrench to measure the rotating force of moving wheel off center the first 90 degrees.
Repeat this on the other side but turn the wheel the other direction.
the torque should be the same with little tolerance.
This is the way I used to find bad steering knuckle support bearings on kingpin solid axles.
If this test gives the same readings for both sides then repeat it with engine running but you will likely need an inch pound wrench for this step. This checks steering gear for problems that can let it cause the wander.
No need to raise either side for the steering gear test but it is important that the floor not be too coarse finish. A smooth steel or aluminum plate below each tire for both of these tests is best to take concrete finish out of the picture.
IF the truck is 4X4 (no profile info to tell which it is), then leaf spring eye bushings and track rod also are items to check.

Wiley75 · 03-19-2006, 10:51 AM

There are MANY folks who have complained of this... including me. It can be extremely annoying to say the least. After chasing it around and replacing all the ball joints, drag link joints, two alignment jobs, I ended up adjusting some of the freeplay out of the steering gear box. I think I ended up 1/2 turn tighter. Made a huge difference. If you do this, try it 1/4 turn at a time as too much will damage the gears in the box. It still is a bit squirrly when pulling a heavy trailer, especially on rutted pavement but it's much better than before. Good luck

pursuthis · 03-19-2006, 07:14 PM

Yeah, the truck is 4x4, so I'll check the track bar bushingss as well Binding ball joints seem to be most likely suspect - seems as though you have to muscle the truck back back against any rut or grade in the road, then once the grade changes or the rut goes away, you have to muscle the truck back straight again.
I would have never imagined ball joints sticking - even though I read the TSB that covered this, I didn't fully comprehend the purpose of the torque wrench test. Will also try to close up the clearaces in the steering gear and see what effect that has.
Much thanks to all fo the info.

dsldandually · 03-19-2006, 07:23 PM

you can also raise one side of front end and remove tie rod from knuckle and turn wheel from hard one way to hard other way by hand if its BJ's you will feel the bind. I did the jack and wiggle/pry test and it checked out OK but once the TR was removed there was a definate binding in the BJ's turned out the upper was shot.....but once you are in that far might as well replace both BJ's and the Axle u-joint too if it is the ungreasable kind

GrampyJim · 03-19-2006, 07:26 PM

Binding ball joints will usually feel free when the weight is removed from them. There is a test and a turning torque spec for binding ball joints but this requires the use of turning plates like on an alignment rack.

rjs82vette · 03-19-2006, 10:30 PM

My X was doing this, turn out to be the passenger side tierod end. Ride fine now......

sdavismd71 · 03-19-2006, 11:40 PM

Any more specifics on adjusting the play out of the steering box? Instructions, etc. Thanks.

pursuthis · 03-20-2006, 06:47 PM

Dunno - i was about to ask Wiley75 about this. I guess its similar to other trucks Iv'e had(Chevy dodge)- usually a hex (allen head) looking set screw on the steering box with a lock or jamb nut on it. Tighten it up to take up excess clearance between the gears but don't go too far or it will self destruct.
By the way, anybody happen to have the alignment specs for the solid axle 4x4 models just to satify my curiosity - truck doesn't seem to be out of spec except low camber angles ( +2deg)...

pursuthis · 03-23-2006, 09:01 PM

I adjusted my steering box 1/2 turn tighter on the set screw - WOW what a difference when all the free play is out of the wheel. There is another thread on the formal (and layman's) way to adjust this elsewhere in this forum.

GrampyJim · 03-25-2006, 12:43 AM

2 degrees is a low camber angle???? 2 degrees will wipe your tires pretty quick. Now... if your talking 2 degrees caster... low on the window but livable as long as the other angles are related accordingly.

Wheel alignment is an art.... your settings may be "in spec" and your truck can still drive like a dog if relationships aren't considered.

MarvinVR · 03-25-2006, 04:27 AM

[ QUOTE ]

Wheel alignment is an art.... your settings may be "in spec" and your truck can still drive like a dog if relationships aren't considered.

[/ QUOTE ]

Ive been told that by many. Many people are complaining about this. I bought mine used but Ford had just replaced the ENTIRE front end components and reset everything twice. I know the mechanic and he showed me the old owners records.

Drove me nuts til I experimented with the air and found that 50 pounds was the right amount for my type/size tires. Wander is minimal now,thank God. It was terrible.

pursuthis · 03-25-2006, 10:29 PM

I'm sorry, I meant 2 deg CASTER. Easy to get them mixed up when I'm typin... Anyway, Is that normal, or am I correct in believing that I should add alignment wedges to get it around 3 - 3 1/2 deg? (There's alot of weight and mass in the 350 rotating and suspension components - My little 5.0 Mustang had 3 1/2 deg caster)
By the way, I checked my ball joints and found no binding - So I Upped my E rated tires to 65lbs and that helped the wander along with the steering box adjustment.(Its still not behaving as stable as I think it should be)
Thanks for the info !!!!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]