Moving North - Get the rig ready - Diesel Forum

mccullionj · 02-09-2010, 01:04 PM

So I'm going to be moving to Cavalier, ND (from FL) at the end of the summer. I was wondering what you guys have as far as inputs for prepping the truck for the cold northern climates.

Aside from the normal snow tires, batteries, stuff that I"m used to with my gassers...what's specific to the 6.0 as far as oil (I have a bypass filter), coolants, etc...

What do I have to worry about with regards to fuel/fuel lines, other fluids and keeping them from gelling?

blue54 · 02-09-2010, 04:38 PM

Not sure how cold it really gets in ND, but when I lived in AK with regular sub zero temps the main thing was preheaters, on older (7.3) powerstrokes an oil heater in particular, not really a big deal the its just a 110V pad heater you silicon to the sump of the pan, and make sure you have a block heater and that it works, should be a 110V cord tucked away behind the bumper on the right side, and you may want a battery blanket heater or trickle charger though I got away without one. Oh and you'll want to run synthetic lube in the diffs, and probably a 60/40 coolant mixture. I wouldn't worry much about gelling fuel, stations add additives or switch to straight number 1 diesel in the winter.

mccullionj · 02-10-2010, 12:27 PM

I currently run Amsoil w/ a bypass for engine oil. What do you guys recommend for diff fluid, tranny fluid, 4x4 fluid? I was thinking either Royal Purple or Amsoil.

CriticalRick · 02-10-2010, 04:04 PM

Use your standard fluids, if you think it's necessary run 10/30. I lived in both AK and ND and ND is WAY colder than Anchorage. It's those damn Alberta Clippers! All you need is good maintenance, working glow plug system, a oil pan heater just in case, and good batteries. I would also check the condition of your block heater cord, sometimes they get tugged on or some corrosion. As for your GP system once your relay's spent I suggest replacing it with a Stancor , or replace it as preventative maintenance (It's a PITA to change a GPR in Nov. in -23 in Fargo

. But you could always jump the terminals with a wrench in a wost case situation.) I went through 2 GPR's in 2 years, then I got this one. DO IT! I'll be moving back to ND in about a year and I just bought a heated Dahl filter just to make the run a bit smoother. But by no means is it necessary. I don't even know how well it will work, saying first the engine will have to consume fuel in the runners and the filter before it gets to the heated fuel. By then the heads should be warm enough to heat the fuel before it's injected. Maybe there will be a difference once I get my RR and bowl delete. All I really wanted was a prefilter but I found one heated for a hell of a deal.

As for tires I ran Cooper Discover ATR's and they are mind blowing in the snow and ice, plus you can run them all season reducing cost big time.

catch&release · 02-10-2010, 05:01 PM

Make sure you fill your wiper fluid container with "winter fluid" and not the Florida stuff you probably have in it now.

woodman55 · 02-10-2010, 05:09 PM

More cash for fuel! Your gonna lose some mileage with our #2 diesel as opposed to the quiet running summer blend. Your truck is probably good as is seeing how your already running synthetic which makes a big diff if your not plugged in.

CriticalRick · 02-11-2010, 07:07 AM

BTW, I liked using a winter guard. The grill cover that lets the engine warm up faster and lets your heater get warmer than without it. On some of those really cold days the heater seems to hardly keep up. I have seen a increase in mileage (1-1.5) using one. It will let the engine run at a higher optimum temp for fuel burning efficiency (kind of like the 203* thermostat) and drastically reduces air coming into the engine bay witch reduces drag at highway speeds.

Rickie · 02-11-2010, 11:29 AM

Yep, ND gets cold, way colder than the part of Montana where I live. The Air dam to cover the radiator is a must to keep engine temps ups. Buy a bottle of Diesel 911 for just in case your fuel gels, but buy your fuel at high volume stations. All stations sell winterized #2 (cut with kerosene) starting in about late October until late March. You should not have too much of a problem with winterized fuel. When the really cold snap hits, you can top off with #1.

Block heater is a must have when Glow Plugs or GPR starts to go. A sump heater is nice. The loudest part(s) of the truck on the cold mornings are the HPOP & injectors. If you do not have the cold weather package, you really do not want to let it idle to warm up. The cold weather package closes the EBPV and goes to high idle with the truck in park, or neutral for manuals, with park brake on after about 2 - 3 minutes.

I have standard oils and have not experienced problems, but am moving towards synthetics one of these days (been saying that for about 10 years now).

blue54 · 02-11-2010, 01:06 PM

Well in fairbanks, where -40 and colder for days isn't uncommon synthetic gear lube was almost mandatory. Transmissions and transfer cases that used ATF were generally fine with what came in them as long as no water got in over the summer. Strange things happen at those temps, square tires, frozen parking brakes, dragging front tires due to thick grease, and anything that's been neglected will probably fail.