Need help with brakes - Diesel Forum

buzzy12 · 04-01-2009, 02:21 AM

i got some new stainless steel braided front brake lines.....my stock ones have been rubbing due to my larger tires...ive never bled my brakes or changed them and was wondering if anyone can send me a link to show me the correct way to bleed the brakes and install hte new brake lines..thanks guys

Nyghtryderz · 04-01-2009, 09:30 AM

I was always told to take our trucks into the shop to bleed the brakes due to the ABS reservior. It is easy to bleed the brakes, but you will have left over fluid in your reservior that will taint the new fluid that you add. I was told you need a special tool to bleed the reservior so you dont get a ton of air in it. I will put money on it that someone knows more about this and will let you know in a day or two. Im am interested also because i've been paying a shop to do mine. Please put up a DIY if you have one. thanks

xfordtdm · 04-01-2009, 10:11 AM

I would start by sucking the old fluid out of the master with a suction bulb. You will want to leave a small amount in the bottom of the master so air isn't introduced into the master. Top off the master with new fluid. Then compress all of the calipers with the bleeder screw open so dirty fluid isn't forced back into the abs unit. Replace your hoses next. I would leave the bleeder screw on the caliper you finish first open and allow it to gravity bleed while doing the other side, just make sure you don't let the master reservoir empty out. When you have finished replacing your hoses, close all open bleeders, top off the master cylinder and pump up your brakes until the pads are touching the rotors. Begin bleeding the system from the wheel that is furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the wheel that is closest to the master until the air in each caliper is gone and you can see new clean fluid coming out. Do the bleeding in this sequence: Passenger rear wheel then driver rear wheel then passenger front wheel then driver front wheel. Always check the reservoir during this procedure to make sure you aren't running it dry and pumping air into the master cylinder.

We don't have abs reservoirs in our trucks. We have an abs module and pump. Those accumulator reservoirs were the in first generation abs systems.

buzzy12 · 04-02-2009, 09:11 PM

whats a diy?

RatherBNtheWoods · 04-02-2009, 09:23 PM

do
it
yourself

buzzy12 · 04-03-2009, 02:33 AM

ya i just figured that out like 10 minutes ago haha...im gonna attempt to change my brake lines this weekend....ill let u guys know how it goes! wish me luck hhaah

mwurster · 03-24-2011, 07:58 PM

2001 Excursion with 179k miles. Did front calipers about 3 years ago when I put drilled/slotted rotors on front...No problem bleeding.
BUT last week I replaced both back calipers and new drilled/slotted rotors and tried to bleed them manually and pedal just kept going to the floor.
I read several threads and bought the Motive power bleeder.
Just went through the sequence of each wheel and honestly didn't notice much air come out...Pedal is no difference, goes practically to floor and then gives some resistance.
I tried taking it into the field and engage ABS (which was not easy since I had to pump the pedal while driving to get enough pressure to activate ABS).
I am baffled....Any suggestions would be appreciated.
mark

chuckster57 · 03-24-2011, 08:09 PM

If you let the master cylinder drain down when you changed the lines then you need to bleed the entire system.

FMTRVT · 03-25-2011, 09:25 AM

Mark,

If you allowed all the fluid to drain out the master cylinder while doing the rear brakes you most likely got air into the ABS controller, which will be hard to get out without the service electronics to activate the ABS system while bleeding.

If you did not drain all the fluid out, most likely when you were bleeding and the pedal was pushed to the floor you damaged the master cylinder cups on oxidation that forms in the furthest areas of the master cylinder bore. This will require a replacement master cylinder.

BTBBT · 03-25-2011, 09:53 AM

The only reason you have to do an abs bleed procedure is if you get air into the system before it, as in the master cylinder. If all you are doing is opening up the lines after the abs you can do it yourself.

Try and keep the fluid loss to a minimum. Clamp the middle of the hose. Remove the caliper end. Put your new line on the caliper. Then remove the frame end of the old with the new line right there ready to hook back up.

When you bleed your brakes, place a 2x4 under the pedal to keep the pedal from going all the way to the floor. I also suggest getting yourself a set of speed bleeders. They are a spring loaded bleed screw that allows one person bleeding. If you have two people, have one press the pedal and hold. You open and close the bleeder. Then tell them to release and reapply the pedal. You open and close the bleeder. Do this for a while, making sure that you never let the MC empty.

mwurster, when you put your calipers on, you made sure the bleeders pointed up, not down right?

WhiskeyBottle · 03-25-2011, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buzzy12

i got some new stainless steel braided front brake lines.....my stock ones have been rubbing due to my larger tires...ive never bled my brakes or changed them and was wondering if anyone can send me a link to show me the correct way to bleed the brakes and install hte new brake lines..thanks guys

You can do it yourself...kinda messy and drawn out process tho...Easiest way like suggested earlier is to take her in and have her Power Bled and make sure they re-center the abs and calipers...a good technician will know what I am saying here. Good Luck...

WhiskeyBottle

mwurster · 03-27-2011, 06:06 AM

Thanks guys for your quick reply.
I have ordered a new master cylinder.
I did NOT put the 2x4 under the brake pedal and that was probably the beginning of the end of that master cylinder.
I did get the power bleeder from Motive, so no more pedal pumping.
Anybody know what the bleed pressure should be 2001 Excursion?
Thanks in advance,
mark

FMTRVT · 03-27-2011, 08:34 AM

LR, RR, RF, LF.

Clamping the hose in my facility would have initiated a one way conversation in my office.

Second conversation about the same subject would have shared a walk out to the parking lot.

If you are changing calipers or hoses, the best way to prevent fluid drain is to do one one caliper / wheel cylinder at a time AND use a length of wood between the seat and brake pedal. This will partially apply the brakes to close off the master cylinder compensating ports making it a closed system like putting your finger on the end of a straw.

BTBBT · 03-28-2011, 10:44 AM

I believe I was the one that mentioned clamping the line. That was on the old line, being replaced, as nothing more than keeping the fluid from running out until you get the other end of the line off. I know it's not good to clamp a line to be used further, but for one that's just minutes away from filling the garbage can... But I like the 2x4 on the seat. I should have thought of that.