1999-2007 General QuestionsGeneral questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.
Good Evening All,
I am going to replace the compressor in my 02 Excursion. I received the new part today and it looks like i need to reuse my pulley, coil, and clutch. Is there anything I should know before I tackle this part? Looks like a bolt holds all of this on the compressor.
Also the compressor came with a little bag of small washer spacers, etc....is this used for the installation of the pulley/coil/clutch assembly?
Do I need to get compressor oil from Ford or should the local parts store have what I need? Orings from ford too?
Thanks
Gino
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02 Ford Excursion LTD - AFE Stage II, 4" MBRP Exhaust, GT38R Turbo, 160cc/100% B Codes, ITP Regulated Return, AIH Delete, Zoodad, CCV Mod, Warn Premium Hubs, Gulfcoast Bypass Oil Filter, Fumoto Drain Valve, DP-Tuner. 4 Autometer Gauges (Bosot, EGT, Coolant, Trans), Coolant filter, Evans Coolant, GOS Headlight Wiring upgrade, Ellis Light Bar, PIAA fog/driving lights, Yellow CAC pipes, AirDog and Tank Mod, Adrenaline HPOP, Red Top Optimas, rotorpros cross drilled slotted rotors, SS brake lines
You need to buy a new or reman compressor w/clutch. You also need to replace the accumulator & orifice if you want to fix it right. The new compressor should come with a 1 year or a lifetime warranty (depending on where you buy it), if you use all three components. Also you need to flush the the A/C system before installing any new parts.
You need to buy a new or reman compressor w/clutch. You also need to replace the accumulator & orifice if you want to fix it right. The new compressor should come with a 1 year or a lifetime warranty (depending on where you buy it), if you use all three components. Also you need to flush the the A/C system before installing any new parts.
And I might add that you need to evacuate the system before you recharge it. A/C work is not difficult but it does demand the right tools/equipment and the proper procedures to insure that it is done right. If you don't have a vacum pump and a set of gauges then it's best left to the A/C guys at your favorite repair facility, doesn't have to be the dealer..
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
what risk am I running not replacing the dryer........i wil evacuate the system for sure.
Thanks
Gino
For starters the dryer/reciever will have an unknown quantity of oil in it. Too much oil in the system is allmost as bad as not enough. No way to quess how much is in the reciever. All the compressors I have replaced for anybody had a tag that said warranty was VOID if the dryer/reciever was not changed, and some even the orifice tube..
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
When replacing both the dryer and compressor, can I put most of the refridgerant oil in the dryer? My new compressor says to carefully measure what comes out of the old compressor and replace it with new oil. So i'm thinking to follow the directions that came with the compressor and add the remainder to the dryer.
Does this sound right?
Thanks
Gino
__________________
02 Ford Excursion LTD - AFE Stage II, 4" MBRP Exhaust, GT38R Turbo, 160cc/100% B Codes, ITP Regulated Return, AIH Delete, Zoodad, CCV Mod, Warn Premium Hubs, Gulfcoast Bypass Oil Filter, Fumoto Drain Valve, DP-Tuner. 4 Autometer Gauges (Bosot, EGT, Coolant, Trans), Coolant filter, Evans Coolant, GOS Headlight Wiring upgrade, Ellis Light Bar, PIAA fog/driving lights, Yellow CAC pipes, AirDog and Tank Mod, Adrenaline HPOP, Red Top Optimas, rotorpros cross drilled slotted rotors, SS brake lines
You should replace the dryer because 1- warranty, & 2- the dryer absorbs the moisture in the system. Inside the dryer is a dessicant or moisture bag. If you want to do the job & do it right, spend the extra money & replace everything. Put the recommended amount (see specs for oil on the a/c sticker under the hood) of oil in compressor. Don't put it in the dryer. The compressor has moving parts. The dryer will get it's share of the oil it needs or any extra oil that may be in the system. Flush the system completely after you remove all components you are replacing. Put it back together, evacuate it (allow extra time to evac. if you have a rear unit)- 20-30 minutes total. You can probably have cold air without all this work but doing it right will pay off in the long run.
When replacing both the dryer and compressor, can I put most of the refridgerant oil in the dryer? My new compressor says to carefully measure what comes out of the old compressor and replace it with new oil. So i'm thinking to follow the directions that came with the compressor and add the remainder to the dryer.
Does this sound right?
Thanks
Gino
I have put 1/2 in each but it makes sense what pacmannut says.. replace BOTH components and do a complete flush before you assemble. Like I said in my previous post and pacmannut says-Warranty requires a new reciever.
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
Ok i'm convinced that getting a new dryer is the best thing to do here.
On to my next two questions. How do I 'flush the system'? I've never done this part before.
When filling the compressor with oil, will I need to be able to turn it so that it accepts the oil. some helpful techniques would be helpful on this one.
Evacuating the system I've got down.
Many thanks guys
Gino
__________________
02 Ford Excursion LTD - AFE Stage II, 4" MBRP Exhaust, GT38R Turbo, 160cc/100% B Codes, ITP Regulated Return, AIH Delete, Zoodad, CCV Mod, Warn Premium Hubs, Gulfcoast Bypass Oil Filter, Fumoto Drain Valve, DP-Tuner. 4 Autometer Gauges (Bosot, EGT, Coolant, Trans), Coolant filter, Evans Coolant, GOS Headlight Wiring upgrade, Ellis Light Bar, PIAA fog/driving lights, Yellow CAC pipes, AirDog and Tank Mod, Adrenaline HPOP, Red Top Optimas, rotorpros cross drilled slotted rotors, SS brake lines
Most auto parts stores carry a flush in a qt. jug made just for A/C systems. There is a "siphon" gun you can use to push the flush through the system. I would take any fitting apart that you can and replace the seals after cleaning each section. I can't remember the brand I use but it allows you to leave some traces in the sytem, as it helps with moisture and acid content in the system. You need to add the oil to the compressor and rotate the pump at least a dozen full rotations to lube the seals. You will be happier next year when you don't have to do it again. I just replaced a "replacement"compressor on my Brother in laws Saturn, cause he didn't replace the reciever and it took out his compressor a week later...$400.00 lesson.
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
Gino get a new reciever drier for sure. When you poen up the A/C system you introduce mosture into the system. Also the debris caught in your system tend to Accumulate in the Drier. Get new O-rings and install the Compressor.
When in stalling the Pully and clutch to the new compressor try the keep the Clutch gap the same as it was on the old compressor. Use a feeler gauge and measure this while it's still old one. Make sure the Gap is either the same or to factory specs.
Once the Parts are on take the truck to an A/C guy to take it to 15min of Vacuum and Charge the system to factory specs. The Label whith this spec is near the Right Battery on the front crossmember. By the way any R134 (PAG) oil will be fine but you can buy this at Ford to be safe. Add several ounces to the Compressor and give it a few turns by hand before hooking up the lines. This will insure the Compressor has plenty of oil at startup.
PHX
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1999 F250 Regular Cab 7.3L PSD 2WD.
If it has spark plugs or less than 8 lugs, it is not a truck.
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