1999-2007 General QuestionsGeneral questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.
they are $26.00 at the dealership. cheaper than any of the chain parts stores.
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Black 99 Crew Cab 7.3 4X4, 85 F250 Reg Cab 460 4X4 loves gas , 70 GTO 455 realy loves gas , 85 Trans am waiting on motor , Wife has Black 99 F150 Reg Cab Stepside V6 .
I agree with rainy day. Last one I bought was $32 and was done in 30min. Dont get me wrong, I enjoy tinkering as much as the next guy, but some times you have to compare that time vs money thing.
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Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
Rainy Day and tallavana - those are much better prices than what I have been hearing.
But it is my understanding that the fix will outlast the new parts and they open/close stronger.
I dont know why Ford is so cheap on their electronics. They advertise that 1 bolt they use to hold their bed on the frame will hold the weight of the truck. Why not put bolts matching the need (not 7000#) and shift some money to the electrics? I have already replaced my mirror adjustment switch and the same on a FEDEX delivery Van we owned - it was a 2003. Both went in about 3-4 years. My first doorlock went bad about 3 years ago. Not very good life.
How long to you anticipate the new $26.00/32.00 parts lasting?
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Bruce & Carolyn Wittmeier
2001 Ford F250 PSD, Ext cab, Shortbed, Island Blue/Silver, 4X4 Off-road, SOF Auto, Alum Wheels, DP-Tuner 40/80/120HP, Chrome Step, Line-X bedliner, Jordan Ultima 2020, AirLift 5000 Airbags, DiPricol gauges
seems like they made a few changes to the new lock. It looked a little different than the old one.
I got for that price at the Mercury dealer. The Ford dealer didnt have any and I dont remember how much he said it was there.
Im not against fixing it myself, but at the time I was replacing it, it was just simpler to throw a new one in. I think I kept the old to rebiuld for a spare, but its been 3 yrs now and I cant remember where I put it. lol.
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Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
they are $26.00 at the dealership. cheaper than any of the chain parts stores.
I'd like to know what Ford dealership has them for $26.00. When I checked into getting new actuators last December, they were $62.36 each from my local Ford dealership, and I needed 3 of them.
With times being like they are, I thought I was going to have to live without power door locks for a while. Then, while poking around here, I stumbled across the thread that described a way to fix them virtually for free. Me being out of work, and not one to just sit around, had nothing to lose by trying to fix my faulty actuators, and it paid off, to the tune of about $200.00. That doesn't even include the labor $ I saved by removing and replacing the actuators myself. Not bad for a day's work, if you ask me.
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2000 F350 Lariat 4x4 7.3 A/T 3.73 CC LB 223,000 miles. BD X-moniter, 4" turbo back Exhaust, K&N cold air Intake, Shifty Performance Waste gate control box, Sniper Special Forces tunes, BTS Tranny with 6.0 cooler. Kendall Alltrans ATF in Tranny and Transfer Case, and Amsoil synthetic in Diffs.
They are at randall ford in Fort Smith Arkansas. At the time I bought them the only 1 that was bad was the driver front and my key wouldn't work half the time. Reaching around from the back door got old real quick. Now that I know about the fix I will take them apart. Not to mention the embarisment of having to give a $40k truck a reach around just so it will take me home.
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Black 99 Crew Cab 7.3 4X4, 85 F250 Reg Cab 460 4X4 loves gas , 70 GTO 455 realy loves gas , 85 Trans am waiting on motor , Wife has Black 99 F150 Reg Cab Stepside V6 .
They are at randall ford in Fort Smith Arkansas. At the time I bought them the only 1 that was bad was the driver front and my key wouldn't work half the time. Reaching around from the back door got old real quick. Now that I know about the fix I will take them apart. Not to mention the embarisment of having to give a $40k truck a reach around just so it will take me home.
I just called them up and they quoted me 61.80 a piece. Idont know how you got that deal? I guess my foil shorted out or else the brushes did because all of mine died. I dont know the circumstances because the wife was driving it. I repulled two actuators and they were both burnt up inside the motor, but all my gearing seemed fine, so I'm trying to get new motors themselves not the whole actuator. I found some online at johnson electric motors but I dont think they are the right ones so far. They were probably made special for ford wiyh an agreement not to resell any so ford can make you buy the whole actuator and once again....rape the customer. I would now strongly reccomend using the wire or the penny to do this trick as I will probly now have to buy new actuators.
My truck is a 99. I'm not sure if that makes a diff. I first tried to buy them at orielly's they tried to sell me one that fit a explorer totaly diff.
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Black 99 Crew Cab 7.3 4X4, 85 F250 Reg Cab 460 4X4 loves gas , 70 GTO 455 realy loves gas , 85 Trans am waiting on motor , Wife has Black 99 F150 Reg Cab Stepside V6 .
I got my power door locks repaired with the 'foil' method. It is surprising how strong they work. I am truly amazed.
It did take me a bit longer than expected, but it is done. As Rob suggests, plan ahead and have your stuff ready. A couple small blade screwdrivers, small phillips, awl, small hammer, Torx screwdriver, needle nose pliers, scissors, flashlight, tin foil and some good music going in the background. Small vice 4" to hold the motor while disassemblying worked for me too.
Here is my write up with pictures. I hope I can help someone as Rob (lariatrob69) helped me.
I guess my foil shorted out or else the brushes did because all of mine died. I dont know the circumstances because the wife was driving it. I repulled two actuators and they were both burnt up inside the motor, but all my gearing seemed fine, so I'm trying to get new motors themselves not the whole actuator. I found some online at johnson electric motors but I dont think they are the right ones so far. They were probably made special for ford wiyh an agreement not to resell any so ford can make you buy the whole actuator and once again....rape the customer. I would now strongly reccomend using the wire or the penny to do this trick as I will probly now have to buy new actuators.
Sorry to hear that, Boomerbust. It does raise some interesting questions though. How long did the foil fixed actuators last for you? Anybody else out there have their "fixed" actuators fail again? What's the longest anyone's had them working after fixing them? Is the copper wire, or $.01 a better way to go than foil? Maybe instead of just bi-passing the resistor, it should be replaced. Would Radio Shack have such a resistor?
A lot of questions, I know, but hopefully some who have repaired their actuators will chime in and answer the big question; Is this a permanent fix, or just biding us a little time?
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2000 F350 Lariat 4x4 7.3 A/T 3.73 CC LB 223,000 miles. BD X-moniter, 4" turbo back Exhaust, K&N cold air Intake, Shifty Performance Waste gate control box, Sniper Special Forces tunes, BTS Tranny with 6.0 cooler. Kendall Alltrans ATF in Tranny and Transfer Case, and Amsoil synthetic in Diffs.
His post was Jan '06. I dont know if they are still working, but Ill try to contact and ask the question. It is interesting. Im waiting on a PM from kalsc.
With this fix, it is still a mystery to me why they weaken, not stop working. This little piece doesnt wear out. The foil just appears to by pass this piece (and it looks like just a small piece of steel - nothing more).
Time will tell.
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Bruce & Carolyn Wittmeier
2001 Ford F250 PSD, Ext cab, Shortbed, Island Blue/Silver, 4X4 Off-road, SOF Auto, Alum Wheels, DP-Tuner 40/80/120HP, Chrome Step, Line-X bedliner, Jordan Ultima 2020, AirLift 5000 Airbags, DiPricol gauges
I have never looked at how the resistor is in there but its job would be to reduce the amount of current going to the motor. When you bipass it you are sending the full current to the motor so it should be stronger. eventually it will wear out, the reason why the resitor is there. Now since it s onluy operating for a split second, it could take ten years before you burn the motor up.
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Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
Tallavana,
I fully agree. Thats why the question now becomes how long will they last. It makes me wonder about the foil-wrap process. It is really doing anything other than bypassing the resistor and is the number of wraps a moot point? It would be interesting to just tape a piece of foil to the plate and see if it works. It probably would.
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Bruce & Carolyn Wittmeier
2001 Ford F250 PSD, Ext cab, Shortbed, Island Blue/Silver, 4X4 Off-road, SOF Auto, Alum Wheels, DP-Tuner 40/80/120HP, Chrome Step, Line-X bedliner, Jordan Ultima 2020, AirLift 5000 Airbags, DiPricol gauges
I just bought a truck with this problem. I found this site and couldn't stop reading. Those motors look an aweful lot like the motors i used to pull out of my childhood toys. Most of those were 6volt not 12volt. That part that you guys are wrapping in foil may or may not have thermal protecting properties. It would be nice to know what the resistance is of that part in a known good actuator motor. We might be able to get a radioshack resistor and solder it into the wiring before the motor. Then short the resistor out inside the motor. Then the motor would get the correct voltage in the series circuit.
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Then, while poking around here, I stumbled across the thread that described a way to fix them virtually for free. 
Me being out of work, and not one to just sit around, had nothing to lose by trying to fix my faulty actuators, and it paid off, to the tune of about $200.00. That doesn't even include the labor $ I saved by removing and replacing the actuators myself. Not bad for a day's work, if you ask me.
F350 Lariat 4x4 7.3 A/T 3.73 CC LB 223,000 miles. BD X-moniter, 4" turbo back Exhaust, K&N cold air Intake, Shifty Performance Waste gate control box, Sniper Special Forces tunes, BTS Tranny with 6.0 cooler. Kendall Alltrans ATF in Tranny and Transfer Case, and Amsoil synthetic in Diffs.
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